Johnny Carey

iTrader: (10)

Nope. Not yet. I get there at 4:55 pacific. Soon. And then the fun begins

swopemike

iTrader: (6)

You have to go "back door" to a previous website version that's still there... let me see if I can find it after a bit....

swopemike

iTrader: (6)

http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/core.htm

http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/blueprint.htm

http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/diffs.htm

Castradamus

iTrader: (62)

Does any have a pic of the regular shock tower and the lowered shock tower side by side?

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Are you trying to tell the difference between the two?

One thing that's obvious without measuring is that the lowered tower only has 6 holes per side (two rows of 3), whereas the regular tower has 8 holes per side (two rows of 4).

Castradamus

iTrader: (62)

Yes I am trying to see the difference.

tom235

thanks swopemike

i rebuilt the diffs the stock way and them pulled it all apart and did it the blueprint way and it is smoother but i didnt have the wider snap rings do you think they make a diff

swopemike

iTrader: (6)

... snaprings ... I missed where they said "new", although the replacement pack I bought was the "new" part #.

jdearhart

iTrader: (15)

I'm Looking for some of the old style RDX Diff pullies. They were the black two piece design that was replaced by the white liteweight pullies. You can see them in the RDX instruction manual on page four. Part number 79172.

http://international.corally.com/pdf...ual-090305.pdf

If anyone has one or two they want to sell, i'd be very interested!

Thanks!

Jack

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Check with Jeff Brown at CorallyUSA. He can tell you if they have any. I have yet to ever see one.

Bill

MD

iTrader: (136)

jdearhart - If you want to get one on line the following places it show on their sight.
Superior Hobbies Online, Corally USA,Speedtechrc.com,RC Procenter.

tom235

i thought the black were the light weight diffs not the white is that not true

jdearhart

iTrader: (15)

The white pulleys replaced the two piece black pulleys. According to Corally, they list the white one as the lite weight version.

The black ones are real hard to find. I've checked with most every Corally dealer on their website, and no one has them. I was hoping someone here might have an old RDx or old parts stash.

Thanks anyways!

Jack

rtherbe

iTrader: (13)

Hey there, I just finished an RDX build, got her used, but tore her down 100%and built per manual. I set the car up as close to the asphalt set ups that are listed (Using my integy set up station). I successfully run a TC3 and TA05on asphalt.

I believe I might be missing something fundamental... Here is my problem the car fishtails badly on counter-clockwise turns,(it will spin in circles if I let it) but turns perfectly on clockwise turns. I really dont think I am missing anything on my set up that would cause this drastic loss of traction, it has to be something simple.

Set up: 27 turn, 34p, 104s, c27s
Front toe in slight
-1.5 camber Front
-1.5 camber rear
4 degree castor blocks front
Two shims for rear toe-in not sure size looks like 3mm in width Maybe 2 degree of rear toe-in.
4 Black springs 60w front 40w rear 5.5mm height.
I have tried different droop settings to no avail, also tried loosening rear diff.
My next thing will be removing shocks and checking for binding from control arms and or swapping rear shocks left to right.
Any input would be appreciated, Thanks AL

Larry Brown

Be sure to put in new bearings. Something is binding or flexing way too much under load, either due to wear or a broken part. Try running it with your hand in the counterclockwise direction and see if you can feel or hear the problem.

Glowster21

iTrader: (136)

Call Dave at Speedzone Hobbies in CT. I know he has them on the wall. 1-860-436-2532. He opens at 1 on wednesday and takes paypal. www.speedzonerc.com

tom235

Set up: 27 turn, 34p, 104s, c27s
Front toe in slight
-1.5 camber Front
-1.5 camber rear
4 degree castor blocks front
Two shims for rear toe-in not sure size looks like 3mm in width Maybe 2 degree of rear toe-in.
4 Black springs 60w front 40w rear 5.5mm height.

this may shound domb but make sure you have the right springs in the right place.
make sure that your wheels turn the same amount on each side
make sure that your tie rods are the same size on doth sides
i just went thru mine and i found one side of the diff bearings were junk
hope this helps

Tom

rtherbe

iTrader: (13)

Thanks, Larry and Tom, I think i will order a diff rebuild and diff bearings to see what that does. I might try to rebuild with current parts, and see what happens, till i get the parts in.

adavison1974

I am having a clear out of some of my rdx spares. Below is whats for sale.

2.4mm chassis part number 79337 (i have filled out slot to enable use of tape but i am sure you could use strap again if needed)

2.9mm chassis part number 79339 (i have filled out slot to enable use of tape but i am sure you could use strap again if needed. this has been used outside a few times.)

2.9mm top deck part number 79356

rear body post plate part number 79407

Shock towers x2 79239

Alloy servo posts 79395

Complete layshaft assembly with two 48dp spur gears

Front spool part number 79155

Complete diff with ceramic bearings inc thrust bearing.

Front bulk head inc bearing holders. part number 79199/79204

rear left and right bulk heads again with bearing holders also inc roll centre block with inserts. part numbers 79199/79205/79206/79120/79123

Rear 2degree uprights part number 79296/79297

a couple of roll bars not really sure which ones (there are silver black and brass ones)

steering blocks part number 79280.

I will sell this as one job lot or split into which ever parts you want. I will ship anywhere in the world. Payment by paypal please. I have added this lot up and it comes to over £500. So sensible offers please. Pics can be sent on request

Cheers

DrunkMike

iTrader: (22)

I broke the screw that holds the diff together and got it out, but now my diff wont stay tight some one told me i need a new diff lock nut, but i dont want to have to buy the whole diff half, if any one knows what is wrong or where i can get a diff nut please let me know.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

About a year ago, CorallyUSA sent supplies of the diff nuts to their dealers for handing out to customers...free. Check with a lhs that is a Corally dealer for one. I have a few in my spare parts. Never had to use one.

Otherwise, contact Jeff Brown at Corally USA.

And don't use the screws with the threads that go all the way to the head of the screw. That is the old one. Get the new one...for sure.

DrunkMike

iTrader: (22)

i have the new screws, i guess ill try to contact corally. also is there any bennifits to the 4mm chassis, im tying to get ready for the champs and wanna get the car set up before i go for the most part but on the set up sheet it never says what chassis they use.

ASCI_Blue

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to know how to get that diff nut out of the diff half. I recently had one break on me as well and put in a one way after the LHS ordered me new diff parts (incorrectly). I've got a spare diff but knowing how to get the nut out would be gold.

DrunkMike

iTrader: (22)

i planed on drilling mine out, i gguess with some effort you can pry it ou but that sounds like a lot of work.

ASCI_Blue

iTrader: (1)

I weigh 160 lbs, I put a piece of metal in the diff half and leaned all of my fat ass against it and it did not budge.

If I was feeling talented enough I'd have taken a drill to it for sure.

DrunkMike

iTrader: (22)

i guess im lucky enough to be a tool maker we have machines for this kind of stuff.

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Mike,

In 2006, the Jason E (1st) and Aaron Y (2nd) RDX stock rubber setups used the 4.0 mm chassis plate. Neither came to the IIC this year. I like the 4.0 mm chassis when you have high traction conditions on a smooth carpet track...like at the IIC...For other carpet conditions using rubber, I prefer the 2.9 mm chassis.

My decked out RDX 4.0 mm rubber chassis from this year's IIC is currently listed in the Classifieds section.

Not sure about the 4.0 with foams though.

Bill

smoke81

Ya i've got pretty good at taken those nuts out. The only way I've found to get them out is to drill them out. Granted i'm a machinest and have access to all the right tools as well.

I'm currently running a 4mm chassis on my rubber car.. Love it

rtherbe

iTrader: (13)

Hey anyone know if I can get the diff washer/springs seperatley? What would be their PN#? In the manual it shows just the diff rebuild as the #. I dont neccassarily mind getting the whole kit but,they're not in stock at Ampdraw who I use frequently (good service)

I believe that this is my problem I posted about previously. I realized that it only breaks loose on power. it reacts the same off power

TexasMack

The part number for the diff washer/springs is:

COR1236 10pcs will set you back $5.00