outlandr91

Speaking of weight, what is the ROAR legal weight for TCs?

shaggster

iTrader: (2)

I think it is like 51oz for foam and 53oz for rubber.

LasagnaCat

iTrader: (161)

Just an FYI post... the new chassis has holes for the battery posts/strap, as well as the slots for tape.

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

In the last year and a half, I've owned several RDX's. I'm pretty good about grazing the inside corner on the sweeper which sends me head on into the wall at full speed. I can't say that I've broken more than a handful of arms, but I've broken about 10 top bumper plates because there is no flex. Has anyone figured out a solution to this (besides not hitting the wall) or am I the only one supporting someones "Buy a bumper plate and send my kid to college" fund?

duckman996

iTrader: (14)

I've seen a few RDX owners run without the top bumper plate... I've actually flipped it over and I'm using countersunk washers with the screws to hold it in place. It seems to hold together better on those impacts that would normally break the top plate. Another option could be to make a top plate out of Kydex.

kartermdb

iTrader: (15)

i used to run without it, and you can do that, but if worst comes to worst, ive run it without the screws in the bulkhead, so it still helps keep the bumper in place, but it seems to be easier on the screw holes, i guess ive been lucky, the only place ive broken one is at the screw holes

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

Do you run the p-dub or specilized hard foamy? Im no hack but when i hit its usualy hard and i had good luck running those bumpers. They take 95% of the impact energy im sure, the graphite upper plate is simply cosmetic with these bumpers unline with the stock rdx foam the top plate is there to hold the bumper in place and help take the impact. just my thoughts,

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

I've got the Corally hard bumper. The big fat one. I tried the kidex bumper and hated it. Hard impacts would strip the body posts off of the screws and still break the top plate at the screw holes. The bumper plate is just too stiff to "absorb" anything. If it was plastic and allowed to "give" some, I think the problem would be solved. I may try the kidex top plate theory though. At $18 a piece, this graphite crap has to go. Other than that, I love the car.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

What screws are you using? The stock Corally screws? I use the kydex bumper and don't break top plates. Instead, I almost immediately bend the long screw that goes into the bolt in the lower bumper plate. If I use a harder screw there, I break the top bumper plate. I just keep using the bent screw and never have a problem. It's a little goofy going in but has no trouble.

RCFREAK

iTrader: (20)

Stilt... i ve had the same issue for a long time .. but i was advised, if using the kydex and the hard foam bumper... you need to "countersink" the upper plate to the hard foam on top...

what i did was mount the front end together... from the side you can see the plate is up on an angle... i traced around the plate, making a pattern on the foam, then removing the same depth/height of the bumper plate, making it flush to the foam... take your time.. then when finished, you can use body clips adding support to the front of the bumper plate where it goes through the body posts..... if your using the Xray body posts.the body clps wont let the bumper flex up causing the rear of the plate to snap..

hope this helps...havent replaced a bumper plate since last year....

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

Been using the kydex/hard foam bumper from SRC for a year, and never broke a single top plate. Did alot of mod on foam tires too last season. Don't understand how people are breaking the graphite top plate.

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

That's exactly how I have it mounted right now. Countersunk the top plate into the bumper, used Xray body posts with body clips holding the top plate down and even used countersunk washers on the mounts screws just to help distribute the energy. Everything comes to the same result. Body posts stripped out and the top plate cracked. The other day I caught the inside corner of the sweeper and shot straight across into the wall. Result: top plate broken, body posts stripped out and lower bumper plate laying on the track. Put on a new plate, caught the end of the sweeper and snapped it also. You know, I think I'm going to find a new line through that d@#$ sweeper. Thanks for your help guys. I'll let you know if I come up with anything brilliant.

Advil

iTrader: (19)

Hey guys. I have been using the HPI body posts and have only suffered a top plate break during colossal collisions (airbags fully deployed). My kids break them from time to time but I haven't in quite a while. No stripped out body post screws either. Perhaps that is the answer you are looking for.....

Drew_Cat

iTrader: (1)

what about diff covers.. to keep unwanted stuff out of the diff balls/diff lube?
or even new diff gears with snap on covers like some other X- company?

sorry guys for using the x word?

i have been using a mod that seems to work.

ERTRACHTER

hey guys its jason i dont run the long screw in the bottom middle of the bumper or the 2 screws that hold down the top plate on the bumper and i never break any of the bumper parts plus i think without the 2 screws on top it helps give flex and steering maybe its just me but my opinion