Team Corally RDX Touring Car
10-21-2006, 04:40 PM
#9451
I talked with robby michaels and jeff brown today at thei hobby expo in chicago and they had all the new parts there for me to check out.
the new chassis, new chassis stiffener and new top deck with center post steering are all for rubber tire.
The current rdx is already a monster on carpet. What more can you ask for ?
why come out with a whole new car if they keep winning with the current model.
they did have a new specialized rc ride height gauge that was pretty sweet on display as well.
the new chassis, new chassis stiffener and new top deck with center post steering are all for rubber tire.
The current rdx is already a monster on carpet. What more can you ask for ?
why come out with a whole new car if they keep winning with the current model.
they did have a new specialized rc ride height gauge that was pretty sweet on display as well.
10-21-2006, 05:32 PM
#9453
Originally Posted by wallstreet
I talked with robby michaels and jeff brown today at thei hobby expo in chicago and they had all the new parts there for me to check out.
the new chassis, new chassis stiffener and new top deck with center post steering are all for rubber tire.
The current rdx is already a monster on carpet. What more can you ask for ?
why come out with a whole new car if they keep winning with the current model.
they did have a new specialized rc ride height gauge that was pretty sweet on display as well.
the new chassis, new chassis stiffener and new top deck with center post steering are all for rubber tire.
The current rdx is already a monster on carpet. What more can you ask for ?
why come out with a whole new car if they keep winning with the current model.
they did have a new specialized rc ride height gauge that was pretty sweet on display as well.
10-23-2006, 05:06 AM
#9454
Originally Posted by Johnny Carey
My only complaint with the center point steering was the same as or8ital. They are way too close together.
How did you guys get around the button-head screw hitting the belt? When the steering post is mounted, the screw that holds the steering lever hits the belt since it sits so low in the car.
You can either (1) raise the deck with standoffs or (2) use a flat head screw but be careful not to tighten too much. Neither solution was very desirable.
10-23-2006, 06:58 AM
#9455
Originally Posted by McSmooth
I had the same problem, and another one.
How did you guys get around the button-head screw hitting the belt? When the steering post is mounted, the screw that holds the steering lever hits the belt since it sits so low in the car.
You can either (1) raise the deck with standoffs or (2) use a flat head screw but be careful not to tighten too much. Neither solution was very desirable.
How did you guys get around the button-head screw hitting the belt? When the steering post is mounted, the screw that holds the steering lever hits the belt since it sits so low in the car.
You can either (1) raise the deck with standoffs or (2) use a flat head screw but be careful not to tighten too much. Neither solution was very desirable.
10-23-2006, 07:06 AM
#9456
Talking rubber on carpet here...With the new thick topdeck and center post steering setup, I do not have as much travel lock-to-lock with rubber tires. Would probably be fine for foams; but, not sure if it will be enough for rubber.
Has anyone tried it?
Yes, I found a screw in my box that had a low enough head to miss the drive belt too.
Has anyone tried it?
Yes, I found a screw in my box that had a low enough head to miss the drive belt too.
10-23-2006, 08:24 AM
#9457
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Originally Posted by Still Bill
Talking rubber on carpet here...With the new thick topdeck and center post steering setup, I do not have as much travel lock-to-lock with rubber tires. Would probably be fine for foams; but, not sure if it will be enough for rubber.
Has anyone tried it?
Yes, I found a screw in my box that had a low enough head to miss the drive belt too.
Has anyone tried it?
Yes, I found a screw in my box that had a low enough head to miss the drive belt too.
10-23-2006, 02:08 PM
#9458
i have the regular carpet spec kit and i'm running the "JARROD LANGLOIS" set up minus the narrow hubs. i have acquired a 4mm chassis and wondering if i should use it with the 3.4mm topdeck or one the others (2.4mm or 2.9mm). we're runnning stock motors on a medium bite, flowing ozite track. please let me know what the benefits would be with the 4mm chassis. the million dollar question is... what's the best set up? (chassis, topdeck, towers, etc.) in advance, thanks.
10-23-2006, 04:09 PM
#9459
Originally Posted by McSmooth
I had the same problem, and another one.
How did you guys get around the button-head screw hitting the belt? When the steering post is mounted, the screw that holds the steering lever hits the belt since it sits so low in the car.
You can either (1) raise the deck with standoffs or (2) use a flat head screw but be careful not to tighten too much. Neither solution was very desirable.
How did you guys get around the button-head screw hitting the belt? When the steering post is mounted, the screw that holds the steering lever hits the belt since it sits so low in the car.
You can either (1) raise the deck with standoffs or (2) use a flat head screw but be careful not to tighten too much. Neither solution was very desirable.
10-23-2006, 09:01 PM
#9460
Has anybody fit the new DNA body on a RDX. Just need to know if I can use the regular shock tower or do I have to have the lower one?
10-23-2006, 09:47 PM
#9461
Tosolini used the DNA at IIC Vegas. He always uses the lowered towers, so not sure if the regular will fit. Remember too, the lowered towers combined with cut shocks affect the handling. Since most of the set ups are with the lowered towers/cut shocks, a change like that will be felt more than just the body change.
10-23-2006, 10:50 PM
#9462
Originally Posted by Advil
My car went from "Lock to Lock" at the steering knuckle. Let me see the car next time and we can figure it out. My car was good this weekend. Unfortunately the driver was not. I need to adapt to the car a little. Lap times were very good though...just not consistant.
10-23-2006, 11:53 PM
#9463
Does mounting the shocks in the "extra long" position help free up the rear of the car? Am I right that I just need to put regular ball cups on the ends of the shocks that have been trimmed about 2mm? The spring retainer is a little bit of a loose fit on there, but I'm able to make ride height okay.
I've been using the shock setup that pretty much everybody seems to go with (19lb springs, 40wt oil) in the rear, but never moved the shocks all the way out. The car is absurdly stuck in the rear, though. I moved them out and ditched the G6 body for an Alpha, so we'll see how things go tomorrow. I guess I'll try stiffer springs, or possibly less front droop since it seems to happen at neutral power and on power. The problem is most noticeable mid-corner and exit. I feel like even though I've set the turn up well, I'm waiting an eternity for the back end to square up so I can get back on the throttle.
I've been using the shock setup that pretty much everybody seems to go with (19lb springs, 40wt oil) in the rear, but never moved the shocks all the way out. The car is absurdly stuck in the rear, though. I moved them out and ditched the G6 body for an Alpha, so we'll see how things go tomorrow. I guess I'll try stiffer springs, or possibly less front droop since it seems to happen at neutral power and on power. The problem is most noticeable mid-corner and exit. I feel like even though I've set the turn up well, I'm waiting an eternity for the back end to square up so I can get back on the throttle.
10-24-2006, 03:46 AM
#9464
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Does mounting the shocks in the "extra long" position help free up the rear of the car? Am I right that I just need to put regular ball cups on the ends of the shocks that have been trimmed about 2mm? The spring retainer is a little bit of a loose fit on there, but I'm able to make ride height okay.
I've been using the shock setup that pretty much everybody seems to go with (19lb springs, 40wt oil) in the rear, but never moved the shocks all the way out. The car is absurdly stuck in the rear, though. I moved them out and ditched the G6 body for an Alpha, so we'll see how things go tomorrow. I guess I'll try stiffer springs, or possibly less front droop since it seems to happen at neutral power and on power. The problem is most noticeable mid-corner and exit. I feel like even though I've set the turn up well, I'm waiting an eternity for the back end to square up so I can get back on the throttle.
I've been using the shock setup that pretty much everybody seems to go with (19lb springs, 40wt oil) in the rear, but never moved the shocks all the way out. The car is absurdly stuck in the rear, though. I moved them out and ditched the G6 body for an Alpha, so we'll see how things go tomorrow. I guess I'll try stiffer springs, or possibly less front droop since it seems to happen at neutral power and on power. The problem is most noticeable mid-corner and exit. I feel like even though I've set the turn up well, I'm waiting an eternity for the back end to square up so I can get back on the throttle.
Last edited by Apex; 10-24-2006 at 08:45 AM.
10-24-2006, 08:33 AM
#9465
Originally Posted by Still Bill
Talking rubber on carpet here...With the new thick topdeck and center post steering setup, I do not have as much travel lock-to-lock with rubber tires. Would probably be fine for foams; but, not sure if it will be enough for rubber.
Has anyone tried it?
Yes, I found a screw in my box that had a low enough head to miss the drive belt too.
Has anyone tried it?
Yes, I found a screw in my box that had a low enough head to miss the drive belt too.
my car on carpet/rubber had all the steering in the world at a 5.5' circle and wasnt at the steering limits by a good margin. That was on med/low grip as well (about vegas grip or less). I probably went to a smaller circle when I went from RP30's to CS27's though to pick up steering, but still no problems. Just fyi.
