Team Corally RDX Touring Car
#7051
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
Jon, welcome to the team If you think it's fast now, wait till you run it some more
#7052
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
I took two weeks off and played VRC basically non-stop. Finally raced last night... I don't think they're going to let me run my 4300 in stock anymore. I figured that would be the first thing to go if I ever had some success. :-D It really does unfairly rip out of corners, but it's SO much fun to drive a car with torque on a small carpet track. The lack of maintenance is just a fringe benefit.
The better I get, the more I appreciate my RDX. The car was so smooth and amazingly precise last night, it really surprised me. It makes me feel bad for car manufacturers that have to hear opinions about their cars from inexperienced drivers. I realize now, if the car could talk, it would be like "is that all you've got?" I think it's getting bored waiting for me to improve.
Back to practicing...
The better I get, the more I appreciate my RDX. The car was so smooth and amazingly precise last night, it really surprised me. It makes me feel bad for car manufacturers that have to hear opinions about their cars from inexperienced drivers. I realize now, if the car could talk, it would be like "is that all you've got?" I think it's getting bored waiting for me to improve.
Back to practicing...
#7053
SYndrome, sent you a pm.
#7055
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Originally Posted by Jon Williams
Thanks, Bri. I'll IM ya again and pretend I don't know who I'm IMing. I seem to do that to you every few months.
Yeah, I'm heading out again tomorrow to get more laps. I'm just super amazed at how smooth this car is.
Yeah, I'm heading out again tomorrow to get more laps. I'm just super amazed at how smooth this car is.
#7056
3 and 4mm chassis
I have some RDX Chassis for sale if anyone is interested (3mm and 4mm).
Please see the following link:
http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=110535
Also, if you are looking for any NIB parts/spares for the RDX, let me know as I am selling all my stuff. I have any spare you might need NIB.
Thanks
Please see the following link:
http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=110535
Also, if you are looking for any NIB parts/spares for the RDX, let me know as I am selling all my stuff. I have any spare you might need NIB.
Thanks
#7058
Tech Champion
Originally Posted by Jon Williams
All I can say is, 'WOW'. This car is amazing.
#7059
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
Yeah, Robbay (like Timay), I even told Jeff Brown that I was super impressed with how your car looked at the Coliseum two weekends ago.
Honestly, your Corally out of the box has been stupid-fast since you built it. I mean, at Mimi's WinterNats you definitely had one the three fastest cars laptime-wise all weekend. Just had a 'lil bad luck in the main.
Honestly, your Corally out of the box has been stupid-fast since you built it. I mean, at Mimi's WinterNats you definitely had one the three fastest cars laptime-wise all weekend. Just had a 'lil bad luck in the main.
#7064
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
Originally Posted by tbeardmore
I think I know what your "shaking" problem is.
I think it's the outer CVD "Cross pin" that drives the FRONT outer axles. The "set" screw may not be tight. If the set screw isn't tightened properly the drive pin will shift - hence rubbing on the INSIDE of your steering blocks.
If you have the aluminum steering blocks - it'll be easy to see if there's been some "pin rubbing" on the inside. If you are using the black plastic steering blocks the pin "wear" markes may not be as easy to see.
I've actually had a pin loose like that and it worked it's way into the holes where the C-Hub pins are and completely lock up the axle/wheel.
An easy fix for this is to "dremel" a flat spot in the center of the "cross pin" so when you re-tighten the set screw that holds it in place - the set screw will have a liitle more grip to hold onto. (ps. put a small amout of threadlock on the tip of the set screw- that'll help also)
Hope this fixes your ~SHAKE~ ??
I think it's the outer CVD "Cross pin" that drives the FRONT outer axles. The "set" screw may not be tight. If the set screw isn't tightened properly the drive pin will shift - hence rubbing on the INSIDE of your steering blocks.
If you have the aluminum steering blocks - it'll be easy to see if there's been some "pin rubbing" on the inside. If you are using the black plastic steering blocks the pin "wear" markes may not be as easy to see.
I've actually had a pin loose like that and it worked it's way into the holes where the C-Hub pins are and completely lock up the axle/wheel.
An easy fix for this is to "dremel" a flat spot in the center of the "cross pin" so when you re-tighten the set screw that holds it in place - the set screw will have a liitle more grip to hold onto. (ps. put a small amout of threadlock on the tip of the set screw- that'll help also)
Hope this fixes your ~SHAKE~ ??
#7065
Tech Champion
yea, the car was Amazing, and has continued to be amazing ever since.
Wish I knew about the "White Body" before qualifying was over...mighta had that tq I was close to grabbin in the 2nd round.
Can't wait to run it up at Jackson!
Hey Larry, I can send you the setup I've been running, or the setup Danny Hartman gave me to start with. Both are very similar. Just let me know, and I can email it over to you. BTW, congrats on pickin up a fast car
Wish I knew about the "White Body" before qualifying was over...mighta had that tq I was close to grabbin in the 2nd round.
Can't wait to run it up at Jackson!
Hey Larry, I can send you the setup I've been running, or the setup Danny Hartman gave me to start with. Both are very similar. Just let me know, and I can email it over to you. BTW, congrats on pickin up a fast car