Team Corally RDX Touring Car
06-13-2005, 04:57 PM
#2461
BadBoyRC here's my setup
Frt
Spool
60 wt oil
Spring 22lbs
Caster 4 degree
Droop 5mm
Ride Height 5mm
Camber Link - all the way out bottom hole
Low roll center
No sway bars
Rear
40 wt oil
Springs 14.5lbs
Droop 5mm
Ride Height 5mm
Camber Link - all the way out bottom hole
Low roll center
No sway bars
Frt
Spool
60 wt oil
Spring 22lbs
Caster 4 degree
Droop 5mm
Ride Height 5mm
Camber Link - all the way out bottom hole
Low roll center
No sway bars
Rear
40 wt oil
Springs 14.5lbs
Droop 5mm
Ride Height 5mm
Camber Link - all the way out bottom hole
Low roll center
No sway bars
06-13-2005, 05:22 PM
#2462
You might want to move your front camber link to the upper set of holes. That will give less camber gain and the front will not dig in nearly as much. Is that droop measured with a gauge or what? I always set my droop to a certain amount of uptravel over ride height rather than set it with a gauge. I only use the gauge to make sure they're even.
06-13-2005, 05:59 PM
#2463
Originally Quoted By Brian McGreevy
You might want to move your front camber link to the upper set of holes. That will give less camber gain and the front will not dig in nearly as much. Is that droop measured with a gauge or what? I always set my droop to a certain amount of uptravel over ride height rather than set it with a gauge. I only use the gauge to make sure they're even.
You might want to move your front camber link to the upper set of holes. That will give less camber gain and the front will not dig in nearly as much. Is that droop measured with a gauge or what? I always set my droop to a certain amount of uptravel over ride height rather than set it with a gauge. I only use the gauge to make sure they're even.
Moving the camber links to the upper holes will create more roll want it?? Another thin I have noticed is that my front tires wear really fast, does that have anything to do with my setup/camber link settings or does the RDX just eat front tires.
06-13-2005, 07:56 PM
#2464
Originally Posted by rcfiend
BadBoyRC here's my setup
Frt
Spool
60 wt oil
Spring 22lbs
Caster 4 degree
Droop 5mm
Ride Height 5mm
Camber Link - all the way out bottom hole
Low roll center
No sway bars
Rear
40 wt oil
Springs 14.5lbs
Droop 5mm
Ride Height 5mm
Camber Link - all the way out bottom hole
Low roll center
No sway bars
Frt
Spool
60 wt oil
Spring 22lbs
Caster 4 degree
Droop 5mm
Ride Height 5mm
Camber Link - all the way out bottom hole
Low roll center
No sway bars
Rear
40 wt oil
Springs 14.5lbs
Droop 5mm
Ride Height 5mm
Camber Link - all the way out bottom hole
Low roll center
No sway bars
Remember........ oil controls how fast the car rolls........ springs control how far the car rolls. Swaybars are like stiffer springs and help to carry corner speed, I ALWAYS recommend them. The low roll center blocks are just giving too much around corners.
Also, when you say your droop is 5mm. Is that the amount of up travel? I hope not as that would REALLY slow your car in the corners.
Jeff
06-13-2005, 07:57 PM
#2465
Roll center effects the rate at which the car rolls. A higher roll center (more angled link) will make that end of the car want to roll quicker and thus bite in harder. This is one reason why we run higher roll centers in rubber tire than foam, because rubbers rely much, much more on heat for their grip and a tire that bites in harder will heat up more. A lower front roll center will roll slower and smoother. This will not only make the car feel like it's rolling less, it'll probably also help with that front tire wear.
Jeff, I don't think he meant the ultra-low blocks, just the regulars in the low position.
Jeff, I don't think he meant the ultra-low blocks, just the regulars in the low position.
06-13-2005, 07:59 PM
#2466
Originally Posted by rcfiend
Another thin I have noticed is that my front tires wear really fast, does that have anything to do with my setup/camber link settings or does the RDX just eat front tires.
Jeff
06-13-2005, 08:01 PM
#2467
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
Roll center effects the rate at which the car rolls. A higher roll center (more angled link) will make that end of the car want to roll quicker and thus bite in harder. This is one reason why we run higher roll centers in rubber tire than foam, because rubbers rely much, much more on heat for their grip and a tire that bites in harder will heat up more. A lower front roll center will roll slower and smoother. This will not only make the car feel like it's rolling less, it'll probably also help with that front tire wear.
Jeff, I don't think he meant the ultra-low blocks, just the regulars in the low position.
Jeff, I don't think he meant the ultra-low blocks, just the regulars in the low position.
This was mainly tested in the rear of the car, which mainly controls the stability of a setup in my opinion.
Jeff
-JB
06-13-2005, 09:46 PM
#2469
Jeff- Are the bones from Specialized R/C a harder material than the stock aluminum ones? Running a spool on asphalt with mod is just killing the hole where the cvd pin goes through, becomes elongated very quickly. Do you have to have their bones to use the steel blades. Thanks.
06-13-2005, 10:54 PM
#2470
RC FIEND
Ditch the low roll center blocks on medium bite surfaces.. they bake the tires.. set the roll blocks either on #1 or #2...if the surface is bumpy you can add a bit of kick up in the front (up on positions roll center blocks)
Try some anti squat in back to keep the rear planted.. but rotating easily..
remebr tc's need to have chassis roll with rubber tires to keep the tires on the road and maximize the contact patch,.
The camber links on the outside hole and the lower holes at #3 from the middle.
set droop once ride hight is set at 5mm.. droop = uptravel..
when the suspension is at ride height and at rest lift the froint end and measure how much up travle you got same for rear.
Typically more up travel = more weight transfer ie. if you slow down the rear lifts and the weight gets sent forward to the front wheels.. the more up travl the faster the weight tranasfer and the less grip it will have on the end thats lifting up same goes for the front in accelerating.. the front lifts alot your car will push(tire have less weight on them.. less up travel the tires will retain grip.
work with uptravel before you mask it with sway bars... usually use sway bars in high grip situation like vht smooth asphalt or carpet.
Ditch the low roll center blocks on medium bite surfaces.. they bake the tires.. set the roll blocks either on #1 or #2...if the surface is bumpy you can add a bit of kick up in the front (up on positions roll center blocks)
Try some anti squat in back to keep the rear planted.. but rotating easily..
remebr tc's need to have chassis roll with rubber tires to keep the tires on the road and maximize the contact patch,.
The camber links on the outside hole and the lower holes at #3 from the middle.
set droop once ride hight is set at 5mm.. droop = uptravel..
when the suspension is at ride height and at rest lift the froint end and measure how much up travle you got same for rear.
Typically more up travel = more weight transfer ie. if you slow down the rear lifts and the weight gets sent forward to the front wheels.. the more up travl the faster the weight tranasfer and the less grip it will have on the end thats lifting up same goes for the front in accelerating.. the front lifts alot your car will push(tire have less weight on them.. less up travel the tires will retain grip.
work with uptravel before you mask it with sway bars... usually use sway bars in high grip situation like vht smooth asphalt or carpet.
06-13-2005, 11:56 PM
#2471
The set up masters. Man you guies are awsome boy keep it comeing i'm learning so much.Corally tech support is the best. 
06-14-2005, 09:07 AM
#2472
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
Roll center effects the rate at which the car rolls. A higher roll center (more angled link) will make that end of the car want to roll quicker and thus bite in harder. This is one reason why we run higher roll centers in rubber tire than foam, because rubbers rely much, much more on heat for their grip and a tire that bites in harder will heat up more. A lower front roll center will roll slower and smoother. This will not only make the car feel like it's rolling less, it'll probably also help with that front tire wear.
Jeff, I don't think he meant the ultra-low blocks, just the regulars in the low position.
Jeff, I don't think he meant the ultra-low blocks, just the regulars in the low position.
Brandon..... they are the stock aluminum ones. Most of the wear you see on the CVD small pin holes is from the Blades going bad and people continue to run on them. I think you will see better results with the steel blades overall.
We are receiving Steel CVD Bones shortly. It will take a few weeks to get them machined for the steel blades.
Jeff
06-14-2005, 09:31 AM
#2473
Ok guys this is truly great stuff. I just have a few more questions. I constantly here people referring to the camber links and the hingepin adjustment blocks as roll center adjustments. Now if they both adjust roll center, does one have to do with weight transfer and the other camber gain 
.
I have visited many of the other touring car threads and they don't have no where the factory tech support I'm experiencing here. I definetly made the right decision to buy a RDX.
Thanks,
Keith
.I have visited many of the other touring car threads and they don't have no where the factory tech support I'm experiencing here. I definetly made the right decision to buy a RDX.
Thanks,
Keith
