Picco .12 JLR Evo 3 Q's
#1
Picco .12 JLR Evo 3 Q's
I have the Picco .12 JLR Red Dot Evo 3 (phew) and I was wondering if anybody knows of a better rod to put in it?
From what I have experienced first hand, twice, is that the rod material is poor, and it always blows the bottom bushing after some time.
Is there another rod that can be put in place of this crappy one??
Or am I just gonna have to stick it out?
From what I have experienced first hand, twice, is that the rod material is poor, and it always blows the bottom bushing after some time.
Is there another rod that can be put in place of this crappy one??
Or am I just gonna have to stick it out?
#2
how soon do your rods blow.
#3
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
I have the Picco .12 JLR Red Dot Evo 3 (phew) and I was wondering if anybody knows of a better rod to put in it?
From what I have experienced first hand, twice, is that the rod material is poor, and it always blows the bottom bushing after some time.
Is there another rod that can be put in place of this crappy one??
Or am I just gonna have to stick it out?
From what I have experienced first hand, twice, is that the rod material is poor, and it always blows the bottom bushing after some time.
Is there another rod that can be put in place of this crappy one??
Or am I just gonna have to stick it out?
#4
well, I guess when I was running it, maybe 4-5 months?
Ive since been using the RB T10, but since Im getting them both re-pinched, Ill keep the JLR as a back-up, but break it in first.
I won't bother waiting for the Evo 4, Scott. Since I have the T10 at hand, ill just keep the JLR on the sideline, and then once I'm finished with the RB and the Evo4 is getting rave reviews, then I might consider that option.
One question, does the P9R have much better parts quality like super-hard crank material like the JLR? Just wondering if it would be a good motor once I decide to try out 1/8!
Ive since been using the RB T10, but since Im getting them both re-pinched, Ill keep the JLR as a back-up, but break it in first.
I won't bother waiting for the Evo 4, Scott. Since I have the T10 at hand, ill just keep the JLR on the sideline, and then once I'm finished with the RB and the Evo4 is getting rave reviews, then I might consider that option.
One question, does the P9R have much better parts quality like super-hard crank material like the JLR? Just wondering if it would be a good motor once I decide to try out 1/8!
#6
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
The crank pin on the Evo3 is larger than the crank pin on the Evo4. The idea behind the large crank pin must have been for durability but it back fired. In order for the rod to fit in the case with the larger crank pin the rod material around the pin is thinner. I was told that the rod is only good for 1 gallon of fuel. I've had my Evo3 for quite some time. It always temps around 220 and after more than 3 gallons, it still has plenty of compression.
When Picco came out with the Evo4, they fixed this problem by reducing the crank pin and having more material on the rod around the crank pin.
The trick to make an Evo3 last is plain old maintenance. Change the rod at or before you start a new gallon of fuel and you'll be fine. The drawback to this is that it costs for doing these rod changes but rod changes are a necessity even with the Evo4 except not as often. I've had my Evo4 for 2 gallons going on to 3 gallons and I'm planning on changing the rod very very soon.
The main problem right now with doing a rod change for the Evo3 is that there are no rods availalble on US shores. You'll have to find one from an overseas online seller that may have them in stock. I'm in need of one myself if I want to keep running my Evo3.
When Picco came out with the Evo4, they fixed this problem by reducing the crank pin and having more material on the rod around the crank pin.
The trick to make an Evo3 last is plain old maintenance. Change the rod at or before you start a new gallon of fuel and you'll be fine. The drawback to this is that it costs for doing these rod changes but rod changes are a necessity even with the Evo4 except not as often. I've had my Evo4 for 2 gallons going on to 3 gallons and I'm planning on changing the rod very very soon.
The main problem right now with doing a rod change for the Evo3 is that there are no rods availalble on US shores. You'll have to find one from an overseas online seller that may have them in stock. I'm in need of one myself if I want to keep running my Evo3.
#7
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
The P9R EVO3's engines are great. A nice smooth motor to drive. I have had several and still have them. I have also just purchased some P9R EVO4's and will try them soon. Actually you will see them at the Vics in January.
Last edited by Slo-MTX4; 11-30-2010 at 07:43 PM. Reason: spelling
#8
OK, well I do have a new rod for the Evo3, so once I break-in the engine, and run maybe a liter of fuel or so through it, ill change it out. Same for the RB - actually, I have the original rod used to break that in, so Ill break it in again using that, and then use my current rod in it.
Slo-MTX4, are you going to be at Lilydale for the Vics?? Great! Ill check out your car and see how it all looks! Do you normally run here, or u live in Brizzy like it says under your name?
Slo-MTX4, are you going to be at Lilydale for the Vics?? Great! Ill check out your car and see how it all looks! Do you normally run here, or u live in Brizzy like it says under your name?
#9
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
OK, well I do have a new rod for the Evo3, so once I break-in the engine, and run maybe a liter of fuel or so through it, ill change it out. Same for the RB - actually, I have the original rod used to break that in, so Ill break it in again using that, and then use my current rod in it.
Slo-MTX4, are you going to be at Lilydale for the Vics?? Great! Ill check out your car and see how it all looks! Do you normally run here, or u live in Brizzy like it says under your name?
Slo-MTX4, are you going to be at Lilydale for the Vics?? Great! Ill check out your car and see how it all looks! Do you normally run here, or u live in Brizzy like it says under your name?
#10
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
OK, well I do have a new rod for the Evo3, so once I break-in the engine, and run maybe a liter of fuel or so through it, ill change it out. Same for the RB - actually, I have the original rod used to break that in, so Ill break it in again using that, and then use my current rod in it.
If you just got the .12 Evo3 and are breaking it in then you don't need to change the rod until you get close to a gallon or in your case start your 4th litre of fuel.
BTW, I didn't mention this before but maybe it should. You must only use Picco plugs for the Picco motor. The reason for this is that the Picco plug is the proper taper such that is seals properly on your head button. Other plugs won't.
When and if you change the rod, you must break in the engine again in order to seat the rod bearing properly.
The P9 Evo3 is a great motor. I recently started 1/8th and since my Picco experience was so good with .12 it was a natural choice for 1/8th. Piccos are not as tempermental as Nova motors. They break in real easy and make gobs of torque.
One big word of advice is that you must allow adequate time to warm up the motor. I didn't and I put in a bad score on the piston although I still have plenty of compression. The reason for the longer warmup time as opposed to .12 is that .21 is a larger motor and takes more time for the heat to conduct throughout the case and sleave. the smaller .12 motors warm up fast because of their size and less mass in case size.
#11
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
[QUOTE=YR4Dude;8283257]BTW, I didn't mention this before but maybe it should. You must only use Picco plugs for the Picco motor. The reason for this is that the Picco plug is the proper taper such that is seals properly on your head button. Other plugs won't.
[QUOTE]
That is incorrect, I use odonnell plug without any problems at all.
[QUOTE]
That is incorrect, I use odonnell plug without any problems at all.
#12
Same, I use OS plugs and it seals up fine - no leaks and it seats maybe a little bit further inside the engine.
This motor is not new, Ive had it for more than a year, but it was only used for about 6-7 months until I got another JLR (unmodified) and that went the same way, with the same rod problem, in less than 2 months.
Im really putting this down to incorrect break-in, but only in the temperature section
I did heat it up to a very toasty temperature, but that was all. During the break-in I don't think I monitored it.
Oooh, how much shims should I be using with 16%? Ive taken them all out and now I don't know how much to put back in! I do have my original needle settings, so that is OK.
Yeah, I did notice they break-in very easily and quickly. Im thinking of either getting the RB Classico 9/10, or even more serious, the Circuit 9/10 but more than likely Id get the Classico if I decide to go RB. If not the P9R would be my weapon of choice, knowing the power they are capable of producing from stock!
This motor is not new, Ive had it for more than a year, but it was only used for about 6-7 months until I got another JLR (unmodified) and that went the same way, with the same rod problem, in less than 2 months.
Im really putting this down to incorrect break-in, but only in the temperature section
I did heat it up to a very toasty temperature, but that was all. During the break-in I don't think I monitored it.
Oooh, how much shims should I be using with 16%? Ive taken them all out and now I don't know how much to put back in! I do have my original needle settings, so that is OK.
Yeah, I did notice they break-in very easily and quickly. Im thinking of either getting the RB Classico 9/10, or even more serious, the Circuit 9/10 but more than likely Id get the Classico if I decide to go RB. If not the P9R would be my weapon of choice, knowing the power they are capable of producing from stock!
#14
I have been been running the Evo3 Tuned motor for awhile, after 2-3 gallons on the motor, it was acting alittle funny, so i pulled it and found the outer bearing had alot of slop.
So, what I discovered was by buying OLD Picco models (the red heat sink) for $60 (Ebay, hobbyshops about $99) , all the parts fit in the Evo3 tuned.
so you get new rod, piston, sleave (all the same), new bearings, and a spare carb, for $60. The crank is not the same, but the timing of it is. Doesn have the scoops, and the putty in the crank. Good for a spare though.
Part # OFN51121
Also, running Odonnel plugs, they work great, seal well. I have put on one a button and checked from the underside.
Shawn.
So, what I discovered was by buying OLD Picco models (the red heat sink) for $60 (Ebay, hobbyshops about $99) , all the parts fit in the Evo3 tuned.
so you get new rod, piston, sleave (all the same), new bearings, and a spare carb, for $60. The crank is not the same, but the timing of it is. Doesn have the scoops, and the putty in the crank. Good for a spare though.
Part # OFN51121
Also, running Odonnel plugs, they work great, seal well. I have put on one a button and checked from the underside.
Shawn.
#15
Hmm, sounds great! Too bad it isnt quite the same, but your saying I could use the case with the bearings inside and it would basically be the same as the Evo3? Sounds good!