Viper R/C Solutions - A New Line of Innovative Power systems!
11-09-2011, 09:39 PM
#691
I would either play with FDR or reduce throttle power to 80% for drifting. I think 7.5 is a whole lot of motor to be drifting with unless its a large track. Is that the motor everyone else at your track is using? I think you are overworking the motor and need to find a better power sweet spot. Let us know the track size and grip conditions. We are here to help you 
the track surface is semi smooth asphalt and around 15 x 15 meters, i think this is the first Viper in our track, most of them use Novak, Mamba Max Pro and Yeah Racing.
i have other kit that has 9.64 FDR @ 110% Over Drive, motor used is Yeah Racing sensorless 5.5T, you can still touch the motor and ESC after you finish one lipo or let say 30 to 40 mins of playing with 2 or 3 mins interval every 5 mins of playing, i test the viper on this kit and the viper performs well and never got thermal issue.
my second kit where i put the Viper combo has higher over drive 120% @ 10.1 FDR and after running for 2 to 3 mins then the ESC will cut off, and the ESC and motor are too hot to touch.
i think i will try different FDR and pulley combination to solve this thermal issue.
overall i like the performance of the viper on my first kit.
BTW, do you recommend to upgrade my firmware to latest? currently im using A19 and i only use this for drifting.
11-10-2011, 10:48 AM
#692
Hi Ekim628,
the track surface is semi smooth asphalt and around 15 x 15 meters, i think this is the first Viper in our track, most of them use Novak, Mamba Max Pro and Yeah Racing.
i have other kit that has 9.64 FDR @ 110% Over Drive, motor used is Yeah Racing sensorless 5.5T, you can still touch the motor and ESC after you finish one lipo or let say 30 to 40 mins of playing with 2 or 3 mins interval every 5 mins of playing, i test the viper on this kit and the viper performs well and never got thermal issue.
my second kit where i put the Viper combo has higher over drive 120% @ 10.1 FDR and after running for 2 to 3 mins then the ESC will cut off, and the ESC and motor are too hot to touch.
i think i will try different FDR and pulley combination to solve this thermal issue.
overall i like the performance of the viper on my first kit.
BTW, do you recommend to upgrade my firmware to latest? currently im using A19 and i only use this for drifting.
the track surface is semi smooth asphalt and around 15 x 15 meters, i think this is the first Viper in our track, most of them use Novak, Mamba Max Pro and Yeah Racing.
i have other kit that has 9.64 FDR @ 110% Over Drive, motor used is Yeah Racing sensorless 5.5T, you can still touch the motor and ESC after you finish one lipo or let say 30 to 40 mins of playing with 2 or 3 mins interval every 5 mins of playing, i test the viper on this kit and the viper performs well and never got thermal issue.
my second kit where i put the Viper combo has higher over drive 120% @ 10.1 FDR and after running for 2 to 3 mins then the ESC will cut off, and the ESC and motor are too hot to touch.
i think i will try different FDR and pulley combination to solve this thermal issue.
overall i like the performance of the viper on my first kit.
BTW, do you recommend to upgrade my firmware to latest? currently im using A19 and i only use this for drifting.
Please try different gear ratio and let me know how it goes. Thanks
11-10-2011, 10:56 AM
#693
Back the timing to 0* if you can. Also, turn down all your frequency settings to about 4000. You really don't need that much RPM with the motor you're running and the extra torques you really won't notice I don't think. But turning down those settings alone will reduce a great deal of heat.
Also, make sure you have the right profile set up in your progauge when you start. You don't want to be set for 13.5 boosted by mistake. That will cause some heat for sure.
Also, make sure you have the right profile set up in your progauge when you start. You don't want to be set for 13.5 boosted by mistake. That will cause some heat for sure.
11-11-2011, 01:13 PM
#694
Back the timing to 0* if you can. Also, turn down all your frequency settings to about 4000. You really don't need that much RPM with the motor you're running and the extra torques you really won't notice I don't think. But turning down those settings alone will reduce a great deal of heat.
Also, make sure you have the right profile set up in your progauge when you start. You don't want to be set for 13.5 boosted by mistake. That will cause some heat for sure.
Also, make sure you have the right profile set up in your progauge when you start. You don't want to be set for 13.5 boosted by mistake. That will cause some heat for sure.
11-11-2011, 09:01 PM
#695
I may have a problem with my vtx10. I was racing earlier this evening and in the 2nd qualifier I went down one of the short straights and made the trun into the corner and lose all power to everything. Looked at the car and tried turning on the esc. All I get is the red light and the reciver light and a second or two later they go out. I even tried a diffrent servo, reciver, motor and battery with no luck. When the red light comes on nothing works at all, but when I unplug the esc from the reciver the red light on the esc won't come on.
11-12-2011, 07:10 PM
#698
Just wanted to share that my Viper powered Kyosho truck ran great again last night. I tq'ed and won the main...
I run a 10.5 motor with boost
I run a 10.5 motor with boost
11-12-2011, 10:08 PM
#700
Back the timing to 0* if you can. Also, turn down all your frequency settings to about 4000. You really don't need that much RPM with the motor you're running and the extra torques you really won't notice I don't think. But turning down those settings alone will reduce a great deal of heat.
Also, make sure you have the right profile set up in your progauge when you start. You don't want to be set for 13.5 boosted by mistake. That will cause some heat for sure.
Also, make sure you have the right profile set up in your progauge when you start. You don't want to be set for 13.5 boosted by mistake. That will cause some heat for sure.
Hi Scott,
How do i turn the timing to 0*? is it at the back of the can that has 3 screw? all i see there is 15-30-45 (correct me if my wrong).
i load the profile 5 now and i just change the Run Mode to practice and thats all i change.
i also use 30T pinion now, im my counter steer setup in drifting the motor and ESC doesnt produce more heat than before (and also the weather is cold now here in Dubai)
and also can you help me to change change some of the setting that i can turn down for drifting, as i dont really need to go fast in drifting. i think changing some of the setting will help me eliminate more heat from the motor and ESC.
TIA,
David
11-12-2011, 10:46 PM
#701
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
Ran my VTX/VST's in my touring cars last night for the first time (club race). Trying to figure out my "go fast" setup in a hurry, I managed to run my boosted 13.5 to 200+ degrees a number of times. Car was screamin fast but...
Not my first rodeo but, I learned once again that it's better to approach a good setup in small increments than try to nail it for the first heat! The motor survived but will need at least a new rotor.
I'm starting to understand the synergy between "boost" and "slew rate" and some of the other finite adjustments that are available with the pro guage. I guess with any new gear there's a learining curve. The VTX is the smoothest speedo I've driven, it's pretty obvious already that Viper is quality equipment and fast!
Not my first rodeo but, I learned once again that it's better to approach a good setup in small increments than try to nail it for the first heat! The motor survived but will need at least a new rotor.
I'm starting to understand the synergy between "boost" and "slew rate" and some of the other finite adjustments that are available with the pro guage. I guess with any new gear there's a learining curve. The VTX is the smoothest speedo I've driven, it's pretty obvious already that Viper is quality equipment and fast!
11-13-2011, 02:17 AM
#702
re temp
I wasnt going to go over 200*f and I was running a fdr 3.37 on a couple of long striaghts and big sweepers..... I tiny little bit of a tight section but no brakes pretty much just flat the whole time..... Now I was hitting 175*f and maybe the very odd 180*f on a 17.5 blinky.
I was running 45* endbell timing and 100% brake and throttle strength with no drag or neutral brake at all... The pwm for the throttle is at 4000 but have tried it up to 8000 with a little difference in smoother throttle and a tiny if any top end... AS for the brake pwm i played with it abit too and then put it back to 4000
Is there anything I missed as today I did push temps with the gearing on a different track today but dailed the endbell timing down to 15* and it was back to 175*f instead of 195*f I was running with 45* endbell...
Cheers
Fordy
I was running 45* endbell timing and 100% brake and throttle strength with no drag or neutral brake at all... The pwm for the throttle is at 4000 but have tried it up to 8000 with a little difference in smoother throttle and a tiny if any top end... AS for the brake pwm i played with it abit too and then put it back to 4000
Is there anything I missed as today I did push temps with the gearing on a different track today but dailed the endbell timing down to 15* and it was back to 175*f instead of 195*f I was running with 45* endbell...
Cheers
Fordy
Ran my VTX/VST's in my touring cars last night for the first time (club race). Trying to figure out my "go fast" setup in a hurry, I managed to run my boosted 13.5 to 200+ degrees a number of times. Car was screamin fast but...
Not my first rodeo but, I learned once again that it's better to approach a good setup in small increments than try to nail it for the first heat! The motor survived but will need at least a new rotor.
I'm starting to understand the synergy between "boost" and "slew rate" and some of the other finite adjustments that are available with the pro guage. I guess with any new gear there's a learining curve. The VTX is the smoothest speedo I've driven, it's pretty obvious already that Viper is quality equipment and fast!
Not my first rodeo but, I learned once again that it's better to approach a good setup in small increments than try to nail it for the first heat! The motor survived but will need at least a new rotor.
I'm starting to understand the synergy between "boost" and "slew rate" and some of the other finite adjustments that are available with the pro guage. I guess with any new gear there's a learining curve. The VTX is the smoothest speedo I've driven, it's pretty obvious already that Viper is quality equipment and fast!
11-13-2011, 05:20 AM
#703
how do i change/adjust the angle in the endbell?
do i need to remove the 3 screw and rotate? or just loosen all the 3 screw then rotate it?
and if i will adjust it to 15* does it lower my esc and motor temperature?
once i change to 15* do i need to change anything to the progauge?
pls help.
do i need to remove the 3 screw and rotate? or just loosen all the 3 screw then rotate it?
and if i will adjust it to 15* does it lower my esc and motor temperature?
once i change to 15* do i need to change anything to the progauge?
pls help.
11-13-2011, 06:26 AM
#704
how do i change/adjust the angle in the endbell?
do i need to remove the 3 screw and rotate? or just loosen all the 3 screw then rotate it?
and if i will adjust it to 15* does it lower my esc and motor temperature?
once i change to 15* do i need to change anything to the progauge?
pls help.
do i need to remove the 3 screw and rotate? or just loosen all the 3 screw then rotate it?
and if i will adjust it to 15* does it lower my esc and motor temperature?
once i change to 15* do i need to change anything to the progauge?
pls help.
I lowered my endbell timing from 45* to 15* today and it run 20 to 25*f cooler with the same gearing and a fresh battery on a 17.5 vst on a vtx10 for nearly 8 mins in a hot day here in australia..... So to say adjusting timing yes it will raise and lower temps but you need to find what works in your place of racing and how hot the air temp and track temp is to start with and then go from them with all your driving style and then be picky and hope your car isnt binding up and cause to much drag on the motor....
Alot of ppl think its all about the motor and speed and so on and so on but have a crappy battery will not help supply the pwer needed too sothings will get hotter aswell.... its all needs to work together unless you have a endless budget go hard
Hope this helps mate. All the wins are made in the pits and your 90% there
Regards'
Fordy
11-13-2011, 07:35 AM
#705
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
I wasnt going to go over 200*f and I was running a fdr 3.37 on a couple of long striaghts and big sweepers..... I tiny little bit of a tight section but no brakes pretty much just flat the whole time..... Now I was hitting 175*f and maybe the very odd 180*f on a 17.5 blinky.
I was running 45* endbell timing and 100% brake and throttle strength with no drag or neutral brake at all... The pwm for the throttle is at 4000 but have tried it up to 8000 with a little difference in smoother throttle and a tiny if any top end... AS for the brake pwm i played with it abit too and then put it back to 4000
Is there anything I missed as today I did push temps with the gearing on a different track today but dailed the endbell timing down to 15* and it was back to 175*f instead of 195*f I was running with 45* endbell...
Cheers
Fordy
I was running 45* endbell timing and 100% brake and throttle strength with no drag or neutral brake at all... The pwm for the throttle is at 4000 but have tried it up to 8000 with a little difference in smoother throttle and a tiny if any top end... AS for the brake pwm i played with it abit too and then put it back to 4000
Is there anything I missed as today I did push temps with the gearing on a different track today but dailed the endbell timing down to 15* and it was back to 175*f instead of 195*f I was running with 45* endbell...
Cheers
Fordy
I'll be testing the other way for 17.5 blinky. We run on small technical carpet tracks here, need tons of rip off the corners as well as decent top end. So I've ordered some 12.80 rotors.
Jim C.