dyno'd-silver can 540j after long break-in
11-11-2010, 05:54 PM
#34
Is the power supply for the dyno?
Timing device?
The whole point of this website is to share knowledge and have fun, go faster and win races. While I understand some people don't want to give up their speed secrets, it sure helps to know how things are done, saves everyone time, money, and keeps people in the hobby.
In the end, all our tinkering cost money. Thats what this hobby is mostly about.
Timing device?
The whole point of this website is to share knowledge and have fun, go faster and win races. While I understand some people don't want to give up their speed secrets, it sure helps to know how things are done, saves everyone time, money, and keeps people in the hobby.
In the end, all our tinkering cost money. Thats what this hobby is mostly about.
It seems like what you're asking for is detailed drawings of my jigs, and a Step one is, and Step 2 is, set of directions. This just isn't going to happen, but I did give you a lot of information and all I got in return was more questions.
Believe me, I was trying to save you a lot of time, money and effort when I suggested that you just buy a motor. Someone replied that he didn't want to spend an extra $30 over a stock motor for a "tuned" motor. Even if I gave you the drawings and the schematics and step by step directions, you'd still be out at least a grand and more like two. And after all that, the Red Dot might be a better motor than what you could turn out.
11-11-2010, 05:59 PM
#35
holy crap, sittin here readin this thread i realized that i have a fantom dyno sittin around here that i never got around to using.
:edit: i found it. poor thing just sittin here waitin to look at how inferior my motors are to 'papa doc'.
R
:edit: i found it. poor thing just sittin here waitin to look at how inferior my motors are to 'papa doc'.
R
11-11-2010, 06:06 PM
#36
Do a blind draw for motors. Have someone in the club maintain the motors and check them out. Have each entrant contribute a motor so the club isn't on the hook to buy motors. The rest of the stuff you can figure out. Stuff like labeling motors, turning in motors at the end of the day or not, tech or not and so on. Sort of depends on your crowd. I will say this tho, if you don't clamp down on cheating, it will kill your series.
11-11-2010, 06:10 PM
#37
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Perrotto- Best way to break in a silver can is to run it in a motor jig at 4 volts using a slave motor. Oil the bushings, use clear comm drops every 12 hours on the burshes, and stop when the brishes are straight up and down on the comm- that will take several days. You can run it in reverse for a few hours if you want to pick up a few hundred RPM at the expense of torque (eg for F1). That's really it. Some motors will wind up in the low 13's, others in the 12's.
To get more than that requires significant research and lots of equipment. But in the end, it's not VooDoo, it's science. It's physics. Read. Research.
Earn it.
To get more than that requires significant research and lots of equipment. But in the end, it's not VooDoo, it's science. It's physics. Read. Research.
Earn it.
11-11-2010, 07:19 PM
#39
I only have two hands and without jigs, no racial slur intended, to hold things in place you couldn't operate the equipment. There are multiple ways to do this stuff and my metods are simpler than most---but effective. It took 3 attempts to build the stupid damn jig.
Now, I hope you understand why my usual advice is to just go buy one.
Now, I hope you understand why my usual advice is to just go buy one.
11-11-2010, 07:32 PM
#41
Yes I am all for brushless but silver can is good for the learner to cook that hot cause of wrong gearing and shitty driving and still be able to put another battery in and race the next race without missing the rest of the days racing....
11-11-2010, 07:37 PM
#42
Perrotto- Best way to break in a silver can is to run it in a motor jig at 4 volts using a slave motor. Oil the bushings, use clear comm drops every 12 hours on the burshes, and stop when the brishes are straight up and down on the comm- that will take several days. You can run it in reverse for a few hours if you want to pick up a few hundred RPM at the expense of torque (eg for F1). That's really it. Some motors will wind up in the low 13's, others in the 12's.
To get more than that requires significant research and lots of equipment. But in the end, it's not VooDoo, it's science. It's physics. Read. Research.
Earn it.
To get more than that requires significant research and lots of equipment. But in the end, it's not VooDoo, it's science. It's physics. Read. Research.
Earn it.
11-11-2010, 07:45 PM
#43
its a art to make them fast yes I agree.... but all these ppl say wah wah wah about why not go to brushless and so on.... well I see it from both sides.
1 its a art to make them fast
2 its a art to drive them fast as they are a different motor to drive than anything else...
3 maybe the brushless is to fast for them and not as forgiving on bad setup.
4 shit the list can go on...
There is big boys of the silver can 540 and then the big boys of the brushless and so on. Like I said in my other post if the company makes them they still can be used.
Each to their own. everyone thinks the motor and speedo is be all and end all with winning and speed... gee there is so much more but if I said I am more into setup of the chassis I wouldnt hear the end of that either
1 its a art to make them fast
2 its a art to drive them fast as they are a different motor to drive than anything else...
3 maybe the brushless is to fast for them and not as forgiving on bad setup.
4 shit the list can go on...
There is big boys of the silver can 540 and then the big boys of the brushless and so on. Like I said in my other post if the company makes them they still can be used.
Each to their own. everyone thinks the motor and speedo is be all and end all with winning and speed... gee there is so much more but if I said I am more into setup of the chassis I wouldnt hear the end of that either
11-11-2010, 07:53 PM
#44
Tech Rookie
Perrotto- Best way to break in a silver can is to run it in a motor jig at 4 volts using a slave motor. Oil the bushings, use clear comm drops every 12 hours on the burshes, and stop when the brishes are straight up and down on the comm- that will take several days. You can run it in reverse for a few hours if you want to pick up a few hundred RPM at the expense of torque (eg for F1). That's really it. Some motors will wind up in the low 13's, others in the 12's.
To get more than that requires significant research and lots of equipment. But in the end, it's not VooDoo, it's science. It's physics. Read. Research.
Earn it.
To get more than that requires significant research and lots of equipment. But in the end, it's not VooDoo, it's science. It's physics. Read. Research.
Earn it.
And while I did ask some questions. That's again what this site is for.
Personally, I think your jigs are used to illegally alter the motor. No jig for a motor would take 3 tries to make for something legal. If you claim it's a break in jig, I am going to laugh. You could make one of those with commercially available stuff for less than $50.
A linear power supply for a dyno? Really? Sure you are not trying to run a constant current through the windings?
11-11-2010, 11:09 PM
#45
this whole thread makes me go 
(NO DONT ASK ME HOW TO TUNE A SILVERCAN! that sums up this whole thread)
now.. refering to the club racer running a silver can mini cooper class. the best way to keep a level playing field is handout silver cans. engrave each can with a number. randomily pull a motor from a box,write down what each racers motor number, and dont allow them to run the same motor within a months time. this way each motor gets in the hands of the guys who can tune the motors and they all get faster as they get run in.
our club had a discount from tamiya canada since we bought so many silvercans at once to get the handout motor rule going. each racer buying a motor and throwing it in the pot, like someone suggested sounds like a great idea
(NO DONT ASK ME HOW TO TUNE A SILVERCAN!
that sums up this whole thread)now.. refering to the club racer running a silver can mini cooper class. the best way to keep a level playing field is handout silver cans. engrave each can with a number. randomily pull a motor from a box,write down what each racers motor number, and dont allow them to run the same motor within a months time. this way each motor gets in the hands of the guys who can tune the motors and they all get faster as they get run in.
our club had a discount from tamiya canada since we bought so many silvercans at once to get the handout motor rule going. each racer buying a motor and throwing it in the pot, like someone suggested sounds like a great idea