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Old 01-26-2005, 06:22 AM
  #1306  
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Mini- I have personally been running a full faced F brush with a red/red combo. This has worked for me almost everywhere. If you set the CE dyno up with torq steps you can see that this is the best setup in most cases. Amp draw doesnt mean squat in TC racing. I have had a stock mtor pull only 4 amps on my GFX and be a rocket. You have to gear the motor for the rpm it has.
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Old 01-26-2005, 06:33 AM
  #1307  
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mini
Me & EA found that useing harder springs on the F-lines made them fade about halfway into the race ,,, as you said over working the brushe, if you have a bit of arcing then run red/red this will cure the brush bounce at high revs

The grn/red combo is favoured for the monster!!! The roar on the other hand i suspect ,cos i have`nt had any roars yet with f-lines fitted! would be happy running the red/red or red/purple cos of the higher speed the roars develope

EA can clarify the roar bit though, as i say i`ve had no roars yet with f-line fitted as std

By the way mini are you still talking to me !! hope so
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Old 01-26-2005, 06:45 AM
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MR JOLLY- The red red on the f lines work well with the roar stock. This is what I ran at the Novak race. EA ended up running it as well.
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Old 01-26-2005, 06:48 AM
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Stephen- Your sig is very colorful I must say

Hey whats that website called with all teh foamy movies?

EA- What up dude?! How's things goin over there in TN?

TK
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Old 01-26-2005, 07:20 AM
  #1310  
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Cheers SS
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:18 AM
  #1311  
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Must try them spring combo's, didnt get testing 4499's against the F-lines as i've only got a limited supply left. I'll try several different spring combo's at the weekend and see and try 4499's versus f-lines.

If someone could tell me how to reduce the motor timing via the brushes it would be great.
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:33 AM
  #1312  
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Originally posted by MR JOLLY
Cheers SS
mmm, and the monster I bought off you last week is red/purple, indicating it might not actually be f-line??
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:36 AM
  #1313  
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Yeah it was the cells and stuff i missed, father said they were attempted to be delivered yesturday so went and collected it all. Will be building them when im back at uni.

Edit: and you gave me 21 brushes so if i want to try one on an MVP style motor with a 766 or something on the neg i can
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:38 AM
  #1314  
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Evo
These querys bye other racers are to be taken lightly re;;springs on the motor, what works for one might not for the other
Q)are your copper shunt with f stamped in the back??
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:58 AM
  #1315  
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Originally posted by MR JOLLY
Evo
These querys bye other racers are to be taken lightly re;;springs on the motor, what works for one might not for the other
Q)are your copper shunt with f stamped in the back??
At work, not telepathic
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Old 01-26-2005, 10:07 AM
  #1316  
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berger
what do you think it looks like on my with 150 of the little buggers

EVOtech
If your at work you shouldn`t be on here
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Old 01-26-2005, 10:20 AM
  #1317  
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Originally posted by MR JOLLY
berger
what do you think it looks like on my with 150 of the little buggers

EVOtech
If your at work you shouldn`t be on here
Your opinion therefore is a bumhole
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Old 01-26-2005, 11:44 AM
  #1318  
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hey Eric,

Thanks for another great batch of motors, ill be putting in another order in a week or two.

Nick

Newark, Ca


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Old 01-26-2005, 06:23 PM
  #1319  
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EA

What would be the proper break in procedure for the "F" brushes running green springs for 1/12 scale? They seem to take a very long time to break in. Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-26-2005, 08:13 PM
  #1320  
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Originally posted by StephenSobottka

If you set the CE dyno up with torq steps you can see that this is the best setup in most cases.
Just wondering what Torq step values you are using.

Thanks

RC
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