Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

I had the NTC3,serpent 710 and now the FW-05R, and I prefer the FW-05R but that is my choice but using the same motor in all 3 cars the Kyosho accelerates better than the rest, and its a strong car.

rene

never a belt car, once you drive shaft you will never go back.
i was tired of having to tighten up the belts, losing belts, they don't have the roll that a shaft car has in turns. my .02

soc123_au

iTrader: (2)

I sacked my RR for a NTC3 about 2 years ago, the only car I love more than my NTC3 is my FT V2 NTC3

I cant comment too much on the other cars as I havent driven them much. From what I have seen of the FW-05-R it seems like a good thing. The LD3, I have built a few but only had a quick drive & I wasnt impressed.

au_Nightmare

What didnt you like about it? I like mine
Was it the LD3 Pro or Super cheap (around $160USD) LD3 Standard version or both?

I've got a few alloy bits + not long ago installed the 0.8 gears (see piccy) Love'em

soc123_au

iTrader: (2)

The last LD3 I put together was a Championship Edition. The diff didnt do it for me, it looks as weak as piss. The car just didnt go together as well as a NTC3. The owner of it loves it, so thats what matters. Although surprise surprise the rear diff let go first time on the track. It was running a V.12 Rody but a top shelf car should handle the power.

jeffreylin

I have the FW05R.

Pro:
1. Fast acceleration
2. VERY free drivetrain with the optional steel ring gears
3. Nearly bullet proof. One of the strongest car out there.
4. Top quality parts. Shocks are the best I known, may even be better than Tamiya shocks.
5. Handles GREAT.
6. Easy maintenance.

Con:
1. The chassis tend to push a bit.
2. Heavy
3. Expensive parts
4. You need to get Kyosho pipes to bring out the top end.
5. Stock ratios are low compares to other shaft cars like the NTC3. It's not a problem if you run in a small to medium tracks. For large tracks, optional spur/pinion/ring gears are must.

au_Nightmare

Your talking about the 4 2*6mm self tappers letting go?

Yeah Mine did that after about 4 or 5 months. It's hardly a big issue but it is something that should not happen . Just use machine screws (2x8mm), like used in the one-way (2x6mm). RE: the gears, Ive seen more FW05R diff gears chewed out (3 sets) then LD3 diff gears (none). I don't know if its a shimming issue with the two FW05 owners though.

jeffreylin

No problems here, although I switched to the optional steel ring gears after about a gallon.

One thing about these gears, it is an issue inherent with shaft driven cars with one-ways and gear diffs if you crash a lot. Essentially, all that energy is absorbed by the drivetrain during a crash. Unless there are belts that slip and absorb part of that energy or ball diff that allow slip, your drivetrain is gonna take the hit, and the weakest part of that drivetrain will get worn out over time.

Team-RTR

the screws in my LD3 let go after a fair run, i just replaced them with longer ones, and hey presto, instant fix, although im gana get a CD3 in a couple of weeks.. cant wait!

orangbaligila

I second all that (I was about to write the same thing ), although some points don't apply to me (price of parts, and pipes,.. I'm in Asia so price is at least the same as in Japan or Taiwan, and I make my own pipes ), but for most people, pipe selection would be troublesome, since there are not so many right-side pipe available yet for various engines.

for most people, on a first run with FW, they'd call it a beast, or an alien,.. coz the feel is quite "different" compared to the "conservative" belt-driven on-road cars.

It's a good car for me, although Kawahara parts could be priced a tad cheaper so we can shave off some weight on it. A chassis best suited for short to mid size, twisty tracks.

Since it's only the first incarnation of it, expect some improvements down the road

note: biggest con for me : high wear rate on metal gears (not the plastic spur-gears). you have to consider yourself a real pr racer if you ever consider to buy the FW,... 1 race day (assume you reach the final, so around 2 hours of use, including small practices) and everything is chewed-up at gear departments (stock parts)

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

the parts for kyosho are not that expensive i get mine from Tower hobbies and the prices are very good!!
Tower Hobbies FW-05R parts page!!!!!

orangbaligila

bumpy track can do the same thing to the gears, so does very sticky surface

speed2004

Everyone,

Thank you for the feedback on your cars.

I really like the "pro's and "cons" idea that Jeff posted. This is what I want to see. I should have asked in the first place.LOL

I am a racer, price is no option been into this for a while, When I give my feedback I consider the build, ease of set-up, ease of working on the car @ the track. strength of a car.

I ran a NTC3 for a while, What I liked:

Layout, ease of maintance and adjustment. ball diffs. CVD's good part tolerances smooth shocks. awsome instructions

What I didnt like: or would like to see changed:

Gears- you hit, your out! it makes it hard to try a locker in the back with a oneway in the front when the gears will go if you hit a dot, I know the white gears are supose to be better but they arent.

Bearings- Their 2 small in my opinion, again you have to check them all the time. that is what i do like about other cars, bigger bearings.

I also just got a 710 to look at. It looks good and I know it will work awsome, but I really didnt like building it, everything was tight and required a lot of hand fitting to get things smooth. the car is quite adjustable but again to change the roll centers, the whole car has to come apart, at a club race their just isnt time. Also where are the down stops? it has up stops but not down stops! I didnt like that. dogbones?? I know Mugen does this 2, Why? we pay $400 for a kit and get dogbones??? instuctions suck! special battery pack needed, Why not include it?

Things I liked:

Bearing size, Pulleys and how they mount
shocks ( once you take the time to sand each piston to a nice smooth fit. Pivot balls are nice and beefy, front oneway is dialed the way you can lock it up. the rear diff is pretty cool to.

I am going to sell this car, before it even hits the track. If anyone wants a brand new 710 that took about 8 hours to build and get everything smooth and right, let me know.

So back to square one for me, more research.

So far the K car sounds the best. from what I understand its strong, the drivetrain is free and smooth and if you replace the gears to the optional ones they don't wear out, is this right?

Every car has its good and bad points, I just want to hear them. what dont you like about your car and what do you love about your car.

Speed2004

P.S. please keep the info coming, I want to see if we come up with a perfect car and then see if a manufacturer's listest to us.

Number 11

How can you comment on something you have never driven?

I can't comment on any other car but the NTC3 and it has been a really good car for me. Parts availablity is something you should consider.

speed2004

So #11

What do you like about about the TC3 and what do you not like?