Schumacher Mi1
#121
I'm a bit confused as to why you would even compare the MI1 against a Sakura XI. The MI1 in basic form is a apples to oranges comparison. The XI is a high performance chassis. Then again, put threaded shocks,a carbon fiber chassis and anti roll bars on a MI1 and I'm sure it would be very close in performance.
If anything, the right comparison would be a MI1 against a Sakura S.
If you like Schumacher as I do and want performance at higher levels, find a used MI4LP. We race on a 80x45 asphalt lot with VERY technical layouts. The Schuie ROCKS !
If anything, the right comparison would be a MI1 against a Sakura S.
If you like Schumacher as I do and want performance at higher levels, find a used MI4LP. We race on a 80x45 asphalt lot with VERY technical layouts. The Schuie ROCKS !
The reason I compare those 2 is because I own both and have raced both on the same tracks with the same setups. And so far I have spent less on the XI (including the price of the chassis) on the Mi1.
Should I compare it to a chassis I've never owned or raced in the same class? Can you really compare a $100 chassis to $165 one? I think a closer comparison would be a TC5 @$199.
#122
Cost issue has no bearing. It's all about the design. Sakura is new, MI1 is a 10 year old design. MI1 is most definitely a intermediate level chassis. Although it can easily be made to perform better, it isn't meant to compete on equal footing with the XI OR the TC5 for that matter. But again, on the right track with the right upgrades,in the right class.....I'm confident the MI1 could hold it's own. The other reason I like Schumacher is because of the company itself. Great product support. The Mission/MI1 is still actively being supported and that's saying something.
Hope that clarifies things a bit.
Hope that clarifies things a bit.
#123
Cost issue has no bearing. It's all about the design. Sakura is new, MI1 is a 10 year old design. MI1 is most definitely a intermediate level chassis. Although it can easily be made to perform better, it isn't meant to compete on equal footing with the XI OR the TC5 for that matter. But again, on the right track with the right upgrades,in the right class.....I'm confident the MI1 could hold it's own. The other reason I like Schumacher is because of the company itself. Great product support. The Mission/MI1 is still actively being supported and that's saying something.
Hope that clarifies things a bit.
Hope that clarifies things a bit.
Unfortunately, parts support in Australia isn't as good as it is in the US or the UK for Schumacher. Its the main reason I retired the Mi1, from boosted stock. I will see how it goes in 540. I had a minimum of 5days wait if I was lucky and if I forked out for express post from the US. There are still places in Aus that can get me the parts, but they don't really keep much in stock so the shipping delay was even bigger.
I didnt expect my laptimes to drop with the new chassis. Especially because I still havent gotten used to the new car yet, and havent explored setup options fully. I beat my PB with the Mi1 on the very first run though. Id only put 1/2 a pack through the car the day before race day. I was blown away when I saw the times and I'd beaten it by .7 of a second.
Don't get me wrong. I, just like you, love the fact that a 10yr old chassis can be this competitive, and that anyone with an original Mission can bring their car out of mothballs. That's fantastic.
But if you had to buy a Mi1, and as you say, add on those upgrades to make it competitive, why shouldn't it be compared on price? At the end of the day, isn't that why a new racer would buy this car? Because you can say "my chassis is based on a 10 year old design"?
#124
I'm not quite sure I follow your logic here Evo.. So its ok to be slower because its based on an older design?
I didnt expect my laptimes to drop with the new chassis. Especially because I still havent gotten used to the new car yet, and havent explored setup options fully. I beat my PB with the Mi1 on the very first run though. Id only put 1/2 a pack through the car the day before race day. I was blown away when I saw the times and I'd beaten it by .7 of a second.
I didnt expect my laptimes to drop with the new chassis. Especially because I still havent gotten used to the new car yet, and havent explored setup options fully. I beat my PB with the Mi1 on the very first run though. Id only put 1/2 a pack through the car the day before race day. I was blown away when I saw the times and I'd beaten it by .7 of a second.
#125
Sorry that part isn't clear. After 9 months racing and tuning the Mi1, I was able to beat my PB (set with the Mi1) with the XI, by .7 sec in its very first run. By the end of the day I'd dropped down to about 1 second faster then my previous PB. with the two chassis, my current best times were: Mi1: 20.290 XI: 19.160
Same tyres, same FDR, same esc and motor setup same batteries, same shock oil and as close as possible in springs. Camber, castor and toe mostly the same as well.
I want to be clear I'm not trying to rubbish the Mi1, I'm simply stating my experience with it compared to a top level race chassis. I'm not planning on selling the Mi1 any time soon, i will try it in 540 and see how it goes. I also plan on it being the backup car for a local race series we have coming up. Had my speed improvements taken longer I would have just believed it was the extra practice.
Same tyres, same FDR, same esc and motor setup same batteries, same shock oil and as close as possible in springs. Camber, castor and toe mostly the same as well.
I want to be clear I'm not trying to rubbish the Mi1, I'm simply stating my experience with it compared to a top level race chassis. I'm not planning on selling the Mi1 any time soon, i will try it in 540 and see how it goes. I also plan on it being the backup car for a local race series we have coming up. Had my speed improvements taken longer I would have just believed it was the extra practice.
#126
Sorry that part isn't clear. After 9 months racing and tuning the Mi1, I was able to beat my PB (set with the Mi1) with the XI, by .7 sec in its very first run. By the end of the day I'd dropped down to about 1 second faster then my previous PB. with the two chassis, my current best times were: Mi1: 20.290 XI: 19.160
Same tyres, same FDR, same esc and motor setup same batteries, same shock oil and as close as possible in springs. Camber, castor and toe mostly the same as well.
I want to be clear I'm not trying to rubbish the Mi1, I'm simply stating my experience with it compared to a top level race chassis. I'm not planning on selling the Mi1 any time soon, i will try it in 540 and see how it goes. I also plan on it being the backup car for a local race series we have coming up. Had my speed improvements taken longer I would have just believed it was the extra practice.
Same tyres, same FDR, same esc and motor setup same batteries, same shock oil and as close as possible in springs. Camber, castor and toe mostly the same as well.
I want to be clear I'm not trying to rubbish the Mi1, I'm simply stating my experience with it compared to a top level race chassis. I'm not planning on selling the Mi1 any time soon, i will try it in 540 and see how it goes. I also plan on it being the backup car for a local race series we have coming up. Had my speed improvements taken longer I would have just believed it was the extra practice.
#127
Tech Elite
Snapped Diff Screw
Well, I like many aspects of my Mi1 but I haven't been able to race it much due to continuously snapping front diff screws The head of the screw pops off almost immediately each run unless I run the front diff very loose (compromising performance). I have tried 3 different screw designs and materials (titanium, blackend steel, and stainless steel). Has anyone else delt with this issue?
Other bummers:
- not having threaded shock bodies makes it darn near impposible to properly adjust ride height
-the centre/layshaft pulley is not concentric (in my kit anyway)
-rear belt tension is way way way too tight (yes the centre bulkheads were installed correctly)
Other bummers:
- not having threaded shock bodies makes it darn near impposible to properly adjust ride height
-the centre/layshaft pulley is not concentric (in my kit anyway)
-rear belt tension is way way way too tight (yes the centre bulkheads were installed correctly)
#128
Well, I like many aspects of my Mi1 but I haven't been able to race it much due to continuously snapping front diff screws The head of the screw pops off almost immediately each run unless I run the front diff very loose (compromising performance). I have tried 3 different screw designs and materials (titanium, blackend steel, and stainless steel). Has anyone else delt with this issue?
Other bummers:
- not having threaded shock bodies makes it darn near impposible to properly adjust ride height
-the centre/layshaft pulley is not concentric (in my kit anyway)
-rear belt tension is way way way too tight (yes the centre bulkheads were installed correctly)
Other bummers:
- not having threaded shock bodies makes it darn near impposible to properly adjust ride height
-the centre/layshaft pulley is not concentric (in my kit anyway)
-rear belt tension is way way way too tight (yes the centre bulkheads were installed correctly)
The spacers available for the shocks should give you enough adjustability for ride height. Is it to low or to high ??
The layshaft pulley would be an issue. probably a bad production run. replace it.
have you tried soaking the belt in wd40 overnight ?? Also, boiling it in hot water can help also. Install it right after boiling.
#129
That diff problem is weird. I run my front diff very tight, only cracked a diff ring once and that's it's.
My layshaft wobbles too. My solution was the alloy gear adapter and a Robinson supalite spur. These are narrower and doesn't touch the top deck.
The rear belt eases off after a few runs, but using the alloy layshaft mount also seemed to losen the rear belt tension.
The shock spacers are a pain. It makes it easier if you have some extra spacers though. Either buy more Schumacher ones or I used tamiya ones I had from my m05.
My layshaft wobbles too. My solution was the alloy gear adapter and a Robinson supalite spur. These are narrower and doesn't touch the top deck.
The rear belt eases off after a few runs, but using the alloy layshaft mount also seemed to losen the rear belt tension.
The shock spacers are a pain. It makes it easier if you have some extra spacers though. Either buy more Schumacher ones or I used tamiya ones I had from my m05.
#130
Tech Addict
Im thinking about getting a used Mi1 as a fun/hack car
Will the diff cope with low turn BL motors?? say a 7T ??
Will the diff cope with low turn BL motors?? say a 7T ??
#131
does this kit come with this:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...o-Mounting-Kit
included in the kit or should i buy it seperate ? it would be helpful too know so i dont just go ahead and buy it and have two, and waste my money
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...o-Mounting-Kit
included in the kit or should i buy it seperate ? it would be helpful too know so i dont just go ahead and buy it and have two, and waste my money
#132
does this kit come with this:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...o-Mounting-Kit
included in the kit or should i buy it seperate ? it would be helpful too know so i dont just go ahead and buy it and have two, and waste my money
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...o-Mounting-Kit
included in the kit or should i buy it seperate ? it would be helpful too know so i dont just go ahead and buy it and have two, and waste my money
#133
would this kit perform well in club racing 17.5 touring? and how about mod if i was too move up ?
#134
The only part of the mount kit that I use is the lipo guard, I figure its an added layer of security.... Not sure how well it protects, but you get the idea.
I think you'll be surprised at how well this car performs right out of the box. I'm three race nights in with mine, and couldn't be happier. I've run this car in our scale spec class, which is a hybrid of the VTA, and USGT rules, and the car performs great. I think it would be a great budget stock tc for sure. For 165.00, you can't go wrong.
I think you'll be surprised at how well this car performs right out of the box. I'm three race nights in with mine, and couldn't be happier. I've run this car in our scale spec class, which is a hybrid of the VTA, and USGT rules, and the car performs great. I think it would be a great budget stock tc for sure. For 165.00, you can't go wrong.
#135
Tech Addict
im looking to pick up this chassis to race in 17.5 binky class,on short med grip carpet track
what gears come with it, and what should i use? what would the largest pinion/ gearing i could use ? will this car work for me box stock? or do i need some hop up parts
thanks for any info
what gears come with it, and what should i use? what would the largest pinion/ gearing i could use ? will this car work for me box stock? or do i need some hop up parts
thanks for any info