jujubean

iTrader: (1)

The F104 is an incredible platform. It is long and narrow like a modern F1 car. Tamiya is primarily a model company so it is in order that they are going for the scale look as much as possible. The Dif is very good now and the front end is so much more workable. I think we have to get past the idea of it being new and an upgrade, and see it as new and different. I need to make an increase in my pace, but I still hope more guys come out for the TCS. it already looks like 2 heats.

As for the New 1/1 F1 cars, Sauber have something going on up front again. From the team that gave us the twin keel front end. More or less, this is Ramph's last car and I am sure he really did some thinking. So far nothing really radical from the other teams. I am sure Mclaren have the Q(quick) duct this year
J

jujubean

iTrader: (1)

On another thread, several people plan to go Coliseum for a free run. Anyone here planing on going?
J

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

T.MARSHALL

Ooj

This may seem silly but has anyone tried to take out the front drive shafts of an F201 and run it as rear wheel drive only? Any setup tips?

F1Jet

Yes, the front drive shaft can be removed and the car run as 2 wheel drive, but it is not seen very often.

The relative complexity of the F201 makes for a wonderful car with fully independent suspension, but it takes ample spare parts to keep the car running as accidents happen.

It can be a lot of fun wrenching on that car, adjusting suspension travel, linkages, differentials, etc. and some 4WD racers really enjoyed it.

I never raced mine on purpose with 2WD, but a few times my front diff was loose. Sometime even the rear diff would come loose and the car would be front wheel drive. That was interesting.

fox88gt

iTrader: (5)

I have done this with mine, and it actually works pretty well if you don't do what I did the first time, so I'll share what made it work for me.

To make an F201 RWD only, you'll want to not only pull the front driveshaft, but also the front dogbones (or cvd's if you have them) and the front differential. At first I tried doing this by only pulling the front driveshaft, leaving the dogbones and front diff installed. Bad idea, the car didn't do much other than burnouts and spinouts. With the front diff still acting on the front wheels with no power being applied to them, it essentiall "ties" the front wheels together and doesn't let the car turn, and when it does, it swaps ends.

You could just pull the front dog bones and leave the diff and center driveshaft, but it removes alot more weight taking it all out. (its rotating mass)

Tires and your running surface make the biggest difference in RWD. I'd recommend soft springs in the rear to help give it rear grip. It may understeer at first, but it will be driveable and you can tune from there. Don't go to aggressive with the camber, i'd suggest -1 degree in the rear and -2 up front, max. You'll get funny tire wear with more camber.

Hope it helps Wish I could help more, but I returned my F201 to shelf queen duty after my F104 pro arrived and havent looked back. For all the beauty of the F201 chassis, the suspension mounting points on the front bulkhead/diff case don't hold up well to impacts, even with the lower reinforcing piece.

Enjoy

Jeff

mxrich

iTrader: (1)

You gotta watch snoop. He has way too much talent...and time...and cool vintage cars... and a wife that let's him race... and well, you get the idea.

tcb22185

iTrader: (61)

if u need a f201 let me know. i got one all done up with 3racing chassie and upgrades..

jujubean

iTrader: (1)

Why not run a spool instead of just 2wd?

Ooj

Thanks for all the replies and tips. My club rules is that we can run any F1 style car as long as it is rear wheel drive only. It makes for an interesting combo because the track is extremely slippery at the best of times.

I also decided to run this car because it just looks great also I like the idea of push rod suspension. Fortunately, I have way too many spare parts and hop ups (back from the TCS days) so it seemed like a shame to let it all go to waste.

I am also running the 3 racing chassis now and while its fantastic that chassis variables have been eliminated, it really highlights how badly the car is weighed down on the right rear because of the motor. I think I need to have a look at a combination of droop and spring preload to sort this out.

I'll post an update on setup when I get it sorted out.

mxrich

iTrader: (1)

Left, right, go and whoa. Anything beyond that is too much science.

jujubean

iTrader: (1)

Well. Mclaren, have stayed long, but gotten thinner. The bulge under the Airbox is interesting. It looks like the F104 was made for this. Any comments on the Renault/Mclaren Airbox? I think they are trying to control the air flow rate on the diffuser. If we could only do that on our little cars.......

F1Jet

hmmm. new F1 cars are popping up everywhere. Didn't the groundhog say we had to wait a while longer for spring? And some of those designs, shapes, and color schemes...are they the result of natural selection or too much in-breeding?

jujubean

iTrader: (1)

Racers,
let's go old school. We now have enough body sets on the way to do do a retro grand prix. http://tamiyablog.com/wp-content/upl...g-2011-010.jpg I hope we get the Tyrell 019 next...