48LikesHyper TT 4wd 1/10th Truggy Thread
06-26-2012, 04:47 PM
#3766
That's the thing, I don't have any pinions so I was hoping to at least get close with the first one I get so I don't have to buy a bunch of useless ones.
Looks like Ill start with 15?
Looks like Ill start with 15?
06-27-2012, 03:01 AM
#3767
Trying to keep this thread alive as I have read about 75 pages and have learned a lot about this little truck.
I just got a roller of ebay, trying to set it up. I've got a 3500kv Tacon motor and a Brushless Hobbies 120A ESC. I know this question has been asked 100 times, but what pinion should I use?
I will be running 2s 5000mAh 40c battries and want it fast, but also controlable. I plan to race my in-laws on the back yard dirt track and maybe someday make it to a proper track.
Thanks for the great thread and any help in the future.
I just got a roller of ebay, trying to set it up. I've got a 3500kv Tacon motor and a Brushless Hobbies 120A ESC. I know this question has been asked 100 times, but what pinion should I use?
I will be running 2s 5000mAh 40c battries and want it fast, but also controlable. I plan to race my in-laws on the back yard dirt track and maybe someday make it to a proper track.
Thanks for the great thread and any help in the future.
It will be easily controlled. I have a 6000kv motor, 14tooth pinion with a 2s 60C battery and its quick but controllable.
I would say go at least a 15T to start withbut dont be surprised if u need to run like 16-17 or so...
Good luck and let us know how u go!
06-27-2012, 03:10 AM
#3768
does anyone bash with their truck. i dont bash hard, and the only issue i encounter was the steering knuckles. the arms seem to be pretty strong and flexible.
i used to bash a b4 buggy a bit harder and i rarely broke an arm on that thing.
ofcourse anything will break if you hit it hard enough, i broken stuff on my 1/8 buggy and those things are tough.
sucks that rpm didnt make arms for these trucks.
i used to bash a b4 buggy a bit harder and i rarely broke an arm on that thing.
ofcourse anything will break if you hit it hard enough, i broken stuff on my 1/8 buggy and those things are tough.
sucks that rpm didnt make arms for these trucks.
Replace the front hubs if u want to stop them breaking. Then u will need harder hits to break the arms.
My car doesnt break as Often now but when it does, its usually a front arm as thats the only sacrificial piece in my front end now...
06-27-2012, 03:23 AM
#3769
I assume you mean the actual diff itself when you spin the outdrives with your hands? Or do u mean the diff when inside the gear case? What screws?
If its the actual diff then...
How thick are the gaskets?
It will either be there is too much clearance in the spider gears due to the gasket being too thick or the case needing to be sanded down a touch...
Or it will be that the spider gears are meshing too tight. If this is the case, just double up the gasket so its twice as thick.
I have done alot of diff work and modifications and found that they feel similar when they are too tight or too loose.
It should be a pretty easy fix either way.
If its not either of these you will need to give me more information for me to understand what exactly its doing.
06-27-2012, 11:21 AM
#3770
Hi mate,
I assume you mean the actual diff itself when you spin the outdrives with your hands? Or do u mean the diff when inside the gear case? What screws?
If its the actual diff then...
How thick are the gaskets?
It will either be there is too much clearance in the spider gears due to the gasket being too thick or the case needing to be sanded down a touch...
Or it will be that the spider gears are meshing too tight. If this is the case, just double up the gasket so its twice as thick.
I have done alot of diff work and modifications and found that they feel similar when they are too tight or too loose.
It should be a pretty easy fix either way.
If its not either of these you will need to give me more information for me to understand what exactly its doing.
I assume you mean the actual diff itself when you spin the outdrives with your hands? Or do u mean the diff when inside the gear case? What screws?
If its the actual diff then...
How thick are the gaskets?
It will either be there is too much clearance in the spider gears due to the gasket being too thick or the case needing to be sanded down a touch...
Or it will be that the spider gears are meshing too tight. If this is the case, just double up the gasket so its twice as thick.
I have done alot of diff work and modifications and found that they feel similar when they are too tight or too loose.
It should be a pretty easy fix either way.
If its not either of these you will need to give me more information for me to understand what exactly its doing.
06-27-2012, 07:32 PM
#3771
Tech Initiate
sorry i wasnt clear on my previos posting.
ok, i'll try to explain a bit better. i change the fluid from 10k to 2k.
if i hold the diff itself on my hand(no gearbox). i can turn it easily, how ever once i tighten the screws on the crown gear(21001) then it starts to bind. i cant turn it by hand anymore. with wheels on it is still hard to turn.
the other hyper tt i have, is smooth. it turns with no effort at all.
i just run it in the back yard so its no big deal, how ever i wanna learn about diffs.
i will check the differential case(21004) to see if it needs some sanding.
ok, i'll try to explain a bit better. i change the fluid from 10k to 2k.
if i hold the diff itself on my hand(no gearbox). i can turn it easily, how ever once i tighten the screws on the crown gear(21001) then it starts to bind. i cant turn it by hand anymore. with wheels on it is still hard to turn.
the other hyper tt i have, is smooth. it turns with no effort at all.
i just run it in the back yard so its no big deal, how ever i wanna learn about diffs.
i will check the differential case(21004) to see if it needs some sanding.
06-28-2012, 03:03 AM
#3772
Tech Initiate
i still dont get my aluminum front knuckles. i been runnin on a broken one, got tired today of it coming loose, so i drilled a hole through and put a zip tie around it. added some shoe goo to it,, looks promising but i still need to see what it will do tomorrow.
06-28-2012, 08:30 PM
#3773
Tech Initiate
I got this truck off e-bay and love it. I wanted something in the stadium truck/truggy look, and to be 1/10 for cost of parts. I Actually got this more for driving around the parks, and my outdoor fun, as I have my SC10 for the tracks/indoor.
I never realized how awesome 4 wheel drive at the track is lol, so now i'm conflicted what I want to run. The ability to put power down with 4 wheel drive in a short period of time, and control it in the air is awesome on the super technical tight track I run.
Anywho, as of now I have some RPM wide crawler wheels on it, with masher 2000 tires. It's a mini monster truggy. A stampede 4x4 / slash 4x4 MT conversion would have got me more ground clearance, but I dislike traxxas.
The truck came with carbon fiber servo brace, center top plate, and front/rear shock towers. Castle SCT 3800 4pole, STRC front top plate, front/rear brace, center bulkhead, and rear hub carriers. I fit my t4.1 bulldog body on it, so i'll have to post pics soon. I'm running 14T on 2s, and lovin it. The whole 1/8th scale vehical layout/setup in a 1/10 package is so cool to me.
I never realized how awesome 4 wheel drive at the track is lol, so now i'm conflicted what I want to run. The ability to put power down with 4 wheel drive in a short period of time, and control it in the air is awesome on the super technical tight track I run.
Anywho, as of now I have some RPM wide crawler wheels on it, with masher 2000 tires. It's a mini monster truggy. A stampede 4x4 / slash 4x4 MT conversion would have got me more ground clearance, but I dislike traxxas.
The truck came with carbon fiber servo brace, center top plate, and front/rear shock towers. Castle SCT 3800 4pole, STRC front top plate, front/rear brace, center bulkhead, and rear hub carriers. I fit my t4.1 bulldog body on it, so i'll have to post pics soon. I'm running 14T on 2s, and lovin it. The whole 1/8th scale vehical layout/setup in a 1/10 package is so cool to me.
06-29-2012, 12:26 AM
#3774
Tech Initiate
a couple pics
06-29-2012, 05:13 AM
#3776
06-30-2012, 05:25 AM
#3777
Anyone have Tenshock 411 motor in their 10TT? Would like to know how's the power and handling like? Currently i'm using CC 3800 4 pole with Xerun 120A
06-30-2012, 08:43 AM
#3778
Tech Initiate
the cc 3800kv 4 pole motor, is enough. you can run 3s and no issues.
i used that motor on a rustler, and i had it geared at 21/87.
never got hot.
are you looking for even more power than that.
right now i'm running 13/42.
while 2s is very easy to drive. 3s makes it a lot faster, i had to tune down my transmitter(tx) from 150 to 100.
but then i messed with the expo and set it at -30% and now its very quick, not crazy and batteries last longer.
i used that motor on a rustler, and i had it geared at 21/87.
never got hot.
are you looking for even more power than that.
right now i'm running 13/42.
while 2s is very easy to drive. 3s makes it a lot faster, i had to tune down my transmitter(tx) from 150 to 100.
but then i messed with the expo and set it at -30% and now its very quick, not crazy and batteries last longer.
06-30-2012, 11:04 AM
#3779
While waitng for my pinions to arrive, my brother-in-law wants to trade motors. Both are Tacon 3660 motors. His is 4000kv and mine is 3500kv. Will this make much differnc? I have ordered a set of 15,16, and 17 tooth pinions...will those still work?
06-30-2012, 10:33 PM
#3780
Tech Initiate
how fast are you looking to go?