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Xray T3 2011

Old 02-14-2013, 10:28 PM
  #4126  
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Originally Posted by Cloaked
3) Any necessary spares I should stock up on?
Xrays are really, really tough. I still have heaps of spares I'll never use or need.
But , get belts, pullies, diff balls.
Most important are the plastic c-things that fit over the driveshaft pin, check these often as they do wear out.
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:29 AM
  #4127  
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Originally Posted by Cloaked
I have a couple of questions for anyone that owned/owns an Xray T3.

1) Gearing for 17.5T TC, I will be running a Reedy 17.5T with high Torque rotor whats a good FDR to aim for and what size Spur/Pinions should I look at? Someone locally advised to aim for between 5-6 FDR.

2) Any necessary mods the T3 '11 needs that wont break the bank?

3) Any necessary spares I should stock up on?

4) Any standard or starter setup sheets anyone can recommend?

Look forward to crashing into some walls soon.
I run a Reedy Sonic 17.5. At most indoor tracks in the US, we're running an FDR around 3.8. We run 96 tooth spurs (64 pitch), so 48 tooth pinion.

Some people like the gear diff up front instead of a spool (with 500K or 1M diff lube), and get the hard bumper.
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:07 AM
  #4128  
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OK, car is running

I am using stock steering position for now. Everything fitting ok.

Battery I have no cups at the moment - So hoping tape holds well.

No Sway bars - any suggestion on setup without sway bars?

running 96/41 (but have other pinions) giving me a 4.45 FDR with a speedpassion v3 17.5t at +10 timing. Now I dont have a fan on the motor, though I could mount one on the motor with a heatsink, aka the one from my TC3 VTA.

SO 4.45 will not give me top end.. but its a small tight track anyway.. and I assume 4.61 should keep motor temps down.. but is it too low? I could get a 45t pinion on there with the sink/fan.. or for the price of a 3racing fan .. put one on behind.

Opinions?

James

OH also anyone tried a swaybar kit from a Tamiya ta06? Or other car that might fit? $35 ea f&r is pretty killer from Xray.

Last edited by Bikerbob; 02-16-2013 at 10:08 PM. Reason: added more
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:44 AM
  #4129  
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OK, ran last night.

I did get the xray sway bars from the previous owner. I am not sure my build of them is working yet. .. any advice on getting the sway bars fitted right?

The car is fast! its Smooth! but at the moment the rear of the car is loose. Also visually I seem to moving from side to side and front to rear quite a bit.

I think I need to stiffen up the front a bit and that will allow the rear to grip a little more?

What tires are people running on Ozite carpet? Its a cold floor carpet on concrete, so I wonder about a tire that would heat up faster.

James

Last edited by Bikerbob; 02-20-2013 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:32 PM
  #4130  
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob


OK, ran last night.

I did get the xray sway bars from the previous owner. I am not sure my build of them is working yet. .. any advice on getting the sway bars fitted right?

The car is fast! its Smooth! but at the moment the rear of the car is loose. Also visually I seem to moving from side to side and front to rear quite a bit.

I think I need to stiffen up the front a bit and that will allow the rear to grip a little more?

What tires are people running on Ozite carpet? Its a cold floor carpet on concrete, so I wonder about a tire that would heat up faster.

James
Hi James,

Review the manual on the sway bars for instructions, this will make sence one you understand how the bars are fitted. I mount the bar with out connecting it to the suspension, adjust the screws until all the play is removed but the bar moves freely, then I connect them to the suspension, to check the operation, with out the shocks connected, moving he left arm should make the right arm lift and right should list the left.

Mark
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:44 AM
  #4131  
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Rebuilt the car from the Chassis plate on up. Few things...

1. How tight do you do the belts, with a bike belt or chain there is usually a measurement of how far the belt can be pushed or pulled in the middle.

2. My shocks need rebuilding - does xray do a rebuild kit? or do I need to order each part on its own?

3. On Ozite smooth - med grip - do people use the upper post to top deck on the steering posts? or no?

Hoping to run this weekend. Any idea if anyones bladder will fit the xray shock?

James
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:02 AM
  #4132  
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob
Rebuilt the car from the Chassis plate on up. Few things...

1. How tight do you do the belts, with a bike belt or chain there is usually a measurement of how far the belt can be pushed or pulled in the middle.

2. My shocks need rebuilding - does xray do a rebuild kit? or do I need to order each part on its own?

3. On Ozite smooth - med grip - do people use the upper post to top deck on the steering posts? or no?

Hoping to run this weekend. Any idea if anyones bladder will fit the xray shock?

James
You just want to make sure that the belt cannot come off the pulley, but is not so tight as to bind the transmission.

When you say rebuild, do you mean freshen the oil? Or full seal and bladder replacement as well? If the shock just sounds like there's air in it just pour the oil out and refill it using the instructions in the manual.

With the steering posts, I usually stayed away from them on anything but very high grip carpet tracks. They will make the front end of the car feel more hooked up if the grip will allow, but less hooked up if it won't.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:22 AM
  #4133  
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob
Rebuilt the car from the Chassis plate on up. Few things...
2. My shocks need rebuilding - does xray do a rebuild kit? or do I need to order each part on its own?

Hoping to run this weekend. Any idea if anyones bladder will fit the xray shock?

James
Bob Reflex racing makes a great soft bladder for XRAY shocks.
I just bought some Tamiya blue shock seals they replace the shock o-ring I need to install them but they look like an improvement to me. # TRF 42215 they do cost more then o-rings but as I said they are more of a seal then a o-ring!
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:40 AM
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When I took the shocks apart (just did the rears so far) I found the bladders torn apart around the outside ring.. so they are trash, I need bladders.

and I need at least a couple of ball ends - Otherwise for now I will refill, I think 50w front and 35w rear with the 3.0 springs front and 2.6 springs rear.

I have a race this sunday and no local shop that sells xray.

James
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:45 AM
  #4135  
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob
When I took the shocks apart (just did the rears so far) I found the bladders torn apart around the outside ring.. so they are trash, I need bladders.

and I need at least a couple of ball ends - Otherwise for now I will refill, I think 50w front and 35w rear with the 3.0 springs front and 2.6 springs rear.

I have a race this sunday and no local shop that sells xray.

James
If I remember correctly, Schumacher bladders will fit, as will Tamiya's. So if you can't find someone at your local track with some Xray bladders, one of those two brands should work. Also, to avoid the tearing around the top of the bladder, do not over tighten the top caps. Just finger tight will work perfectly.

50w oil also sounds a bit heavy in the front end for medium grip carpet. I would try 35w or 40w all around, or if you're using CST rated oils, 350-450 all around. That's a good start on medium grip ozite.
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:15 AM
  #4136  
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HELP!!

Ok my track just renovated !! - we now have almost 4200sq of track! about 2/3 on brand new ozite over concrete.

This stuff is like an ice rink for the most part.

I need setup for MAX traction - Also what tires would be good for this? I have some older tires that would work on high traction once they got softened up again.. I have CS27 PS24s TO25 and my most current tires are Sweep 30s

All of these are like driving drift!!!

Thanks

james
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:21 PM
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Hmm since that last post of mine the track I was talking about CLOSED!!! largest population base in Canada, and cannot make an indoor onroad carpet track work. SUCKS.

Anyway.. still have a track - phew.. dont really like offroad.

So now I have a t3'11 for vta and tc. Very happy. So if you happen to be reading this post, and know a good VTA setup.. I would love to hear it.
I bought the 2.5mil offset hexes for the VTA car. Going to have to add a fair bit of weight for the vta as well.

James
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:24 AM
  #4138  
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hi

just got a hobbywing Extreme stock esc with a 17.5t motor

racing T3 on carpet twisty internal with long straight track

any suggestions on gearing
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:21 PM
  #4139  
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4.5 fdr is about the basic starting point for 21.5 or 17.5

I run 96/40 - I do see most of the big names go for a 106 main gear.. not sure why.

Just finished up my VTA T3 tonight.. 2 weeks till i get to run it.

woo hoo.

James
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:26 PM
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question for any t3 owner who can give me a good answer

why 50mm or 52mm Uni shafts? I do seem to see a reason? either way they fit.

I have one car with 50 all around and another with 52mm in the front with a spool... but the spool has the same width on the outdrives.. so what more there? I have looked through the manual cant find any explanation.

James
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