Toon

Just building my new 417X, and I've found that I can't seem to use a Tamiya v2 gear diff in the front when using the standard 1-piece 1C suspension mount in the front-rear position behind the front bulkheads, as the pully touches the mount. With the spool fitted, and 3.5mm of shims under the 1C mount (as per manual), there is a very small gap between them. If I try 4mm under the 1C mount, then the pulley touches.

I ran the v2 gear diff in the front of my 417, but I always used 1C split-mounts behind the front bulkheads. I wanted to try the 1-piece mount to start with, but it looks like I can only use the split-mounts with a front gear diff. Has anyone else come across this issue?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

How tight are the belts? If your running them loose, could try tightening up the tension a bit to help move the diff forward a little. Theres should be enough room to run an extra 1mm under the block though, although it's not something I've done too often.

HiH
Ed

EM1-TC3

Hey does anyone know if there is a right or wrong way to assemble the Tamiya Racing Factory Dampers?

In the 417 Manual it shows: Spacer/ O-ring/ Large Spacer


...and in the TRF Damper package it shows: O-ring/ Spacer/ Large Spacer

Just curious, I bought a set for my old TC3 because they're so nice.
I couldn't find anything on this incase I get drilled for not looking
thanks,
-Brian

hotdognobun

iTrader: (32)

small spacer/oring/large

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

haha, I do it the other way round... so the o-ring is closest to the hole in the shaft... each to their own really, I don't think it matters too much!

hotdognobun

iTrader: (32)

On the next rebuild i will try that set up! Have you tried the X rings o ring? after 10 packs i still get no leak or air in the shock! When do you reccomend maitanence?

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Tbh, I hardly ever touch the bottom of the shocks. The only thing I've ever done is switch out for the blue o-rings (not tried the x-rings). Only thing I do to help these seal a little better is add a 0.2mm 4mm shim into the shock body. Puts a little bit of pressure onto the o-ring, and that helps to seal against the shaft better... no leaks for me on that. Can't remember the last time I switched out the o-rings mind! Still going strong with no leaks, or air

HiH
Ed

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

IIRC the manual says spacer oring spacer, I know the old black shocks come with a manual which says oring spacer spacer - Ed is pretty old school so he's probably still building his shocks the 414 way

I run kyosho now and the velvet shocks use 2 xrings and then the bottom spacer. They are the best shocks I've ever run and only need to be rebuilt when you want to change oil viscosity, so it might be worth trying on the tammy

EM1-TC3

Thanks guy so much! Will look into these o-rings and shims when it's time for a rebuild

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Don't take my word on the shock building thing... this guy knows a few things too...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sliCxsIZ3v4
(2:40 - O-ring/spacer/spacer )

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Both ways work fine, I still have like 5 sets of TRF shocks and I'm pretty sure they are all built different

barts71m

iTrader: (34)

Just rebuilding my 417 and putting new shocks on it, have built it with Oring/Oring and spacer, feel smooth as. Used a blue oring and a clear oring, 2 blue orings made it too sticky on the shaft.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

See how you go Scotty, I thought it took away grip. That was with 2 of the Muchmore blue orings when I tried it tho

chrisk

iTrader: (32)

Are you sure you are building shocks?

Are you watching the Jilles video or another video

barts71m

iTrader: (34)

See how it goes, gotta get the rest of my parts first. Itching to give it a skid round though.