BestNThDez

I just got a SC10 RTR kit and am trying to put together an order for only the necessary hex and socket head tools to work on it. What sizes of each are needed?

I did a search and didn't come up with any links addressing this question.

Thanks for the help!

rcannon409

iTrader: (2)

You'll need both american size and metric.

Nut drivers in 3/16" and 1/4" are nice to have. 11/32" for the rear wheels.

Hex wrenches .050 1/16" 3/32" and metric 1 1.5 and 2

Obviously you dont need good ones since the kit comes with the cheap ones, but good ones make working on the truck so much easier.

If money is an issue, the sizes I could not live without (good stuff) would be 1/16 and 3/32. I believe I could get by with the cheap hex wrenches for the other sizes.

BestNThDez

Perfect, that's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

What part on the SC10 requires a 1.5mm hex driver?

ThunderbirdJunkie put his truck together using nothing but his Losi Race Wrench ASE set of 3/32, 5/64, 1/16, and .050.

BestNThDez

I know that the screws that go through the bottom of the chassis to the servo mount blocks are 1.5 mm and 2 of the front skid plate screws are 1.5 mm.

SmItH_aLeX

iTrader: (3)

you dont need any metric tools for the sc10.

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

No, they're not metric. They are 1/64.

rcannon409

iTrader: (2)

I used the 2.0 metric hex on the 6 screws on the bottom of the chassis under the rear bulkhead. Many times the american sizes are close, but these fit very snug with a 2.0 and I've torn two of them up using the 5/64". I believe the 2.0 is just slightly bigger.

I do think I am crazy about the 1.5 size, however....I THOUGHT I remembered using it!

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

1.5mm is .059"
1/16" is .0625"

There's only .0034" difference. That's 3.5 thousandths.

2.0mm is .0788"
5/64" is .0781"

There's only .0006" difference there. That's 6/10ths of a thousandth.

I really think that you can do just fine with Standard tools on the whole kit.

rcannon409

iTrader: (2)

That makes good sense...almost identical.

jojackso

I picked up a Husky hex set from Home Depot that has all of the sizes needed. It is a ratcheting screwdriver and costs about $15 bucks. They also have a nut driver set as well. I think I will pick that one up and I will have it all covered.

BestNThDez

Actually the pinion gear set screw that came stock on my SC10 RTR is a 1.5 mm. The .050" is too small and the 1/16" is too big, so I guess the kit isn't entirely standard/US sizing.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

If you are going to invest some money on tools, I highly recommend the MIP Thorp drivers. I have a set of standard size for my AE vehicles and metric sizes for my Tamiya vehicles...

Ever since I started using the Thorps, I have never had a reason to replace any of the screws due to the heads stripping...

BestNThDez

Tom, thanks for the advice on tools. I'll look into them, as I need some tools still, although I never stripped the set screw. The reason I was asking is that I want to order some extras to have in case I loose the stock one since it is so small. Problem is, apparantly noone knows what size this setscrew is, size and pitch that is.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

Check that topic, I just replied to it. It's a 5-40 set screw, the hex size is 1/16"

I would highly recommend start with this wrench, since you will have to wrench the pinion down pretty hard. Usually, I alleviate the wrenching (even with the Thorp, the set-screw's integrity has its limits) with some thread lock. You just need a *tiny* thin coating on the set screw and just wrench it down good...

The L-wrenches that comes with kits are ok for one-time use, but I would not recommend continuous usage as it is made out of cheap metal and tends to deform and strip screw heads.

It's an endless cycle with a bad/cheap wrench (and tools in general):

Soft tool will bend and deform from continous use.

The deformed head will not fit snug in the key of the screw/bolt

The deform head will start deforming the key of the screw/bolt

The deformed key of the screw/bolt in turn deforms the soft tool further

On the screw-side, make sure to get good screws made of good materials. Only use titanium and aluminum if you have the absolute need for it. Titanium and aluminum screws IMO is only necessary for air-borne applications where weight is critical. Most of our LiPo-powered vehicles are underweight anyways so use steel wherever possible...