3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

17.5TC.. Found a stock but brand new TC6.1 for $200 w/ servo but no body. Think it's worth buying?

SRJRacing

I bought a TC6.1 end last year with floating servo mount and front spool with loads of spares for $200 (exchange rate equivalant). Yesterday I got a 6.1WC for $140, sure that is a bargain

Now my question, with a spektrum servo, which servo arm is best to use? Currently I'm using a Core RC arm but it look a bit 'bulky'

Wil Holmes

iTrader: (4)

I wasn't able to find a 6.1 with electronics. I would suggest buying a chassis around the $200 or less seems fair to me. Theres a lot of guys thats selling a 6.1 that are way to proud of what they have. This is a older car so the value has dropped good bit. Here is one I looked at before I found the one I bought with electronics http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...c6-1-ftwc.html. I think he will work its been forsale awhile.

purpleturk

iTrader: (18)

I have a tc6 I bought used.ive been having trouble getting it to act right so I've decided to rebuild it to factory setup. I noticed before rebuilding the shocks I had no rebound. I tried to set it but no rebound. I started looking and seen there is a hole in the cap.it was either drilled or came that way.not like a crack or anything like that.my question is what is the advantage of zero rebound? Most sites say start with 50% rebound.

RussF

iTrader: (22)

Most setups for the TC6's have zero or low amount of rebound on the shocks. It provides a more consistent dampening in the shock. With some rebound you have "pack" in the shock that would make it stiffer on compression and softer on extension. Sometimes you might want that. For the most part I really like zero rebound in my shocks and the best way I've found to get it is to use softer bladders like the reflex ones and drill the caps to release the pressure behind the bladder.

purpleturk

iTrader: (18)

That is what I got.what would be good to use on asphalt vta.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

I just bought a TC 6.1 Worlds Team Car, new in box for $210! I'm looking forward to it. I've always been a AE fan. So it looks like a 6.2 maybe in my future.

I don't race anymore and I'm primarily a tinkerer and basher. Maybe this car will make me race again.

Great to see a huge thread for this car. I'll need to review to see how to build mine up. I'm planning a Novak Balistic 7.5 or lower motor and ESC for the 6.1.

RussF

iTrader: (22)

I really like the box stock setup on my VTA car for both asphalt and carpet. You can always tweak from there. I think the only differences I have are RSD 1x1x1.5 pistons, RSD bladders, drilled caps, front gear diff with 1 million wt oil, and rear gear diff with 40 wt.

purpleturk

iTrader: (18)

I have the spool front and ball rear

RC.Jon22

iTrader: (27)

Quick question - I just picked up a 6.2 to run onroad. I haven't raced in a year and a half or so. I've used the Reflex stuff before and bought some bladders and the fan mount, but which pistons are popular for 17.5 on outdoor asphalt and/or indoor high grip carpet? I see the 3x1.1 pistons in a lot of setups, is this the way to go or are the 3x1.15 pistons preferred? I don't know how much of a difference 1.1 vs 1.15 pistons will make, but which are more popular?

And is there anything else I need to get this car running smooth? Looking to get back into racing and I'm not sure what the current "must haves" are for the car. Thanks guys!

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

His would be a question for thr 6.2 thread however ill answer it for you. The pistons all the guys at our local high bite carpet track use 3x1.2mm (we drill them out) you NEED a servo saver (xrays is really good). Other option parts to consider are the battery mounts from rad to promote a more consistent car. Also you can drill your bladder caps to promote a more consistent car. We use the rsd bladders and o rings most of the time in our shocks. Also the rsd bumps is a nice addition if you hit the wall at any speed.
There are many many of the upgrades that I have on my car. However for a beginner those are the general basics to get your car working well.

jpx

Hi Boothy,

We had some training yesterday.
I stayed with a spool in front (no need for me to change to a front diff) and changed the rear diff from 35wt to 50wt. In combination with some other changes (upper links V3->V2, Droop 6/5->5/4 and some more) a was happy with to find .2 to .3 sec and at the end of the day had a car which was even easier to drive.
Anyway - I'm still away 0.6 sec to the fastest guys, so there's still som work for me on the car - and on my driving skills ...

Did you try spool and diff in the front allready?
Would you post the complete setup of your car?

Greets, Jan-Peter

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

In a brief summary, what are the major differences between a 6.1 and 6.2?

Is it worth the upgrade?

Boothy82

iTrader: (12)

Hey Jan-Peter

Thanks heaps for the update and the info!!! No unfortunately im still waiting on a order to arrive here in Aus with the rest of the electrics so I can hit the track.

As it is now I have one car set up with a spool and the other the geared diff with putty in it ready to go. Just followed 2 setups I found on here. I will try them both and will be sure to post back soon

Thanks again
Boothy

jpx

Hey Boothy,
ok, I'll keep checking for your update!

- main chassis and top deck
- servo position and steering rack
- lower arm mounts

I still have my TC6.1 with wc chassis, so I don't know myself how to compare driving the car. But most of the TC6.2 guys state, that it' easier to find a good setup and therefore easier to drive.

Hope that helps.

Greetings, Jan-Peter