wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Just want to add, that I could battle with BD7's and a T4 in a race today. And these cars are nice, look good, but are not the one second a lap faster like some guys try to make us believe. Of course the driver counts, but I am not the "Talent" and was able leave quite some good guys behind today. If these cars are really faster then it is some thousands of a second. It is still everything in the setup and then the last four tenth in the driver. The BD7 seems to have a very nice basic setup (maybe setup window) and the T4 really smooth shocks, but that seems to be all...

Edwin Pibal

iTrader: (1)

make sure you have them the right way round...

i had them wrong the first time i build my gear diff and found it VERY tight.

ed

rossb

How do you mean? I put the bigger one inside the case and the smaller one outside the diff case and behind the seal.

Edwin Pibal

iTrader: (1)

there were two washers that were simular, i rememeber getting them mixed up and haveing simular problems

ed

El Nitro

iTrader: (2)

Associated TC6.1 Discontinued at Tower Hobbies.

Was very close to buying one from these guys as the discount codes make it competitive for us in Aussie. Shops like A Main Hobbies dont do the discounts so not worth buying from them.

Why would Tower stop supporting the TC6.1

What other brands have easy and reasonably priced spares for Aussies.
Team Magic?, Capricorn?

Where do other Aussies buy parts for AE TC6.

Will Tower still provide parts support for the TC6.1 or any AE product.

Seems a bit strange to me.

Madulla

TC6.1 Worlds Edition is coming out.

Flagler

iTrader: (13)

Hey guys. What's the best way to gain some rear grip? I'm running on carpet with solaris medium tires. I have the oil at 30 in the rear with green springs. Everything else is kit setting. I'm looping it and the end of the straight and back end is stepping out in every corner to the point that I cannot drive it. I have some guys who are going to help me at the track next weekend, but if I can go in with the right setup (or close to it) it might make things easier.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Post your setup...
It will then be a lot easier to see where you are going wrong. One simple tip would be to reduce your rear droop. You are likely transferring too much weight forward when entering a turn so reducing the rear droop will limit the forward weight transfer. This is one of the easiest changes to use in a pinch for biasing weight transfer for me. Your tires may be too soft as well...I know, it sounds strange but if you think about it, the reason your rear is breaking loose is because the front has too much grip which can be exaggerated by softer tires. Ever since I realized that weight transfer is king and how nearly all setting changes influence weight transfer, I can find a reliable starting point fairly quickly at any track.

Flagler

iTrader: (13)

Well, the tires are spec so they cannot be changed. And the rest of the setup is what the manual says to build it with. Can a setting like droop really make such a big change?

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

I take it that you mean the (2) 2.5mm screws that hold the spur gear shaft?
Change them to socket cap head screws instead of button head as they use a bigger wrench. You can tighten them better as well so no need for loctite.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Ok, the stock setup is great for pavement but carpet has more front grip. Actually more grip over all but if your car is setup for pavement, it will oversteer on carpet. You can start with stiffer springs all around, stiffer front stabilizer, less sauce on the front tires and higher roll center in the front end.
Notice that all my suggestions are in the front of the car? That's because the weight is moving forward when turning. If you follow the weight, you will see the problem.
If you have a smartphone or an ipad, I would suggest getting the RC Workbench app from Martin Crisp. I learned a lot from that app. (shameless plug) Oh yeah... Droop can have a dramatic effect on handling especially in high grip conditions because acceleration and deceleration are more pronounced.

whiteflagwar

iTrader: (13)

This app is amazing! Downloaded it a couple weeks ago and I feel like it has taught me so much about setup!

oceanhighz

iTrader: (49)

If you can get in contact with Jeff Cuffs, I think he could give you a good starting point.

From what I remember running last year, closer to 3.5 rear toe, 2 degrees camber rear, 1.5 camber front, green rear springs, silver front, 1.5 droop front, 2mm droop rear.....


silvers all the way around can work too, depends on your shock fluid, tried a few different setups using different fluids.

008-Racer

Hi I am sorry if this has been asked before but does anyone have a table of positions for the upper camber links

I have just installed the vertical camber link clamps and wondered what I need to do to get a similar setup that I had with the standard carbon towers?

Thanks in advance for your help

Edwin Pibal

iTrader: (1)

#3 on the old towers is V1 on the vertical mount, using a short neck ballstud, and no shims.

i also would love to see a chart.

ed