Originally Posted by S_fender

Personnally i like to use
Long inner camber link hole
- On carpet track (but not always true... test-test-test)
- On long outside tracks with fast sweepers.
It gives fastest directions changes with better stability.

Short inner camber link hole
- On short outside tracks with lot of "slow" turn.
It gives better stability in that case.

Long/Short balstud is used to find the correct height with little change.

Shims under ball stud to use ? :
When using more shims under ballstud (inside and outside), the parallelepiped (Camber link + arms) is bigger and means better stability.

Difference betwwen outside and inner balstud : The more the camber link is angled

"how would i know is my droop or camber is too little or too much?"
Droop => testing is the best ?
Camber => See your tyres wear.

See the manual,all is explained :

Camber Link Position:
The camber link is used to set static camber at ride height, but it is also an effective setting to adjust roll center height and camber
gain. The TC6.1 has 7 positions for the front camber link, and 14 for the rear. These positions vary in both length and angle.
Longer links will produce less camber gain, stiffening that particular end of the car in roll. These are particularly effective on large
tracks with big sweeping corners. Shorter links will give more camber gain, softening that end of the car in roll. This will make the
car more aggressive, and is a good setting for smaller indoor tracks with high grip levels.
The angle of the camber link will make fine adjustments to the roll center height. Typically the camber link will be no more than
parallel to the suspension arm with the inboard side of the link lower than the outboard side. As the inboard side of the camber link
is moved down, the roll center goes up, stiffening that end of the car. Camber link angle is a good adjustment to help fine tune the
balance of the car to the track by setting the front and rear at slightly different angles.

Sébastien

Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart

The fact that the ball stud is vertical means nothing. But mounting it vertically allows you to make finer adjustments to the height of the ball which you may or may not find works better.

It is definitely a good tuning option.

Originally Posted by gom

can anyone tell me if the tc6.1 steering knuckles work with the tc6 c-hub and lower arms? i have a tc6 and i want to give the 6.1 steering knuckles a try. i heard they have more steering?

Originally Posted by gom

can anyone tell me if the tc6.1 steering knuckles work with the tc6 c-hub and lower arms? i have a tc6 and i want to give the 6.1 steering knuckles a try. i heard they have more steering?

Originally Posted by rcpaintinpete

Any of you guys going to the USVTA nats in sep
Just want to see how many are making the trip
With TC 6/6.1
Maybe we can get som help from each other
You know us non team drivers need to help ourselves

Originally Posted by Biggie85

Hey everyone, I was looking at some AE team driver setup sheets and noticed some Note that the steering blocks are "reversed". Does this mean the blocks are flipped upside down and switched? I.E The right block is now used as the left block and vise versa?

Thanks.