Rick Hohwart

This setup did not list the mounts as offset which they are. Use the offset mounts or add 2mm shims to the standard mounts to get the correct width.

Nobody uses 2 deg caster. At least I have never heard of it. Is there a reason you must use this?

You can try this but it is not 2 degree caster.

I have only seen a control practice time sheet which showed Juho and Keven somewhere between 10 and 20. There is a TITC 2012 Facebook page with some photos.

Steve S

iTrader: (5)

Straight from the man himself, thank you very much. So just to clarify, that's offset mounts + 1mm shim?

Also:
Should the rear mounts be offset as well?
What caster setting? The box is blank on the sheet.
Approximately how much uptravel would you use? The droop gauge does not take tire size into account.

Thanks again.

mtaddei

Ciao Rick,

i bought a second hand tc6 and i find the 2° caster fitted on it, as on all set up sheet i always find 4° caster i was curious to see if somebody tried the 2°.

In any case before to change the set up of such model i'll give a try to the set up that i find on such model, maybe it works well.

Tnks for yr replay
Max

Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

What's up with the losi #57 pistons?



Thanks

dennisV

Nothing. They work great too.

gom

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the detailed response Mike. That is really helpful. I'll try out some of your recommendations on the next practice day. Adding 1mm on front hinge pin blocks sounds interesting as well as using hole 1 on front camber link. I have always been using hole 7 in the front and hole 1 in the back. May be using hole 1 on both will help stabilizing the car.

I have a question about adding 1mm on front hinge pin blocks. Which setting is that affecting exactly? front roll center? toe angle? It'll give a bit of toe out yes. However I don't think that's the point of this set up change. I just want to understand the logic and mechanic of each set up change. it helps me predict how the car should react to it.

Thank you.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I'm on hole 1 in front with 1mm under the outer camber link stud. Because that's what the fast locals use. I'm still at the stock hole 3 in the rear with 2mm under the outer camber link.

So to be clear, I put 1mm under both the forward and backward mounts on the front arms. That will effect track width, shock angle, probably roll center a bit, maybe even ackerman and bump steer for all I know. But the main goal with that change is to widen the front track width. Using 1mm spacers between the wheel and the hex would make a similar change without as many geometry side-effects, and I'm honestly not sure why one approach is preferable than the other. My understanding is that the wider track in front generally takes away some roll, maybe takes away a little grip, stabilizes the car, and makes it harder to flip.

I should start filling out setup sheets to track my changes. But here are some notes from last night's racing:
- I ran the gear diff with 500k traxxas oil all night. It diffed out a lot on corner exit, so I know I was loosing some accelleration there, but it was controllable. I think I had a radio calibration issue that was making it really hard to get on the throttle smoothly that I later sorted out. But overall, the car was much smoother into and through the corners, and was easier to do consistent laps with.
- Started on Spec-R C2.9f/2.5r springs with TRF shocks (with clear silicon o-rings) on AE 35wt oil. That car was decent bit maybe a little nervous. I switched to AE Silver/Green springs on TRF shocks (with 50* tamiya x-rings) with AE 45wt oil, and it was a huge improvement. It really settled the car down, especially in the high-speed transition. I think next time I'll start with 45f/40r, and build the extra set of shocks as 1 pair of 50wt and leave one at 35wt, and experiment with the fluid split.
- I copied another local guy's dynamic brake settings for the Viper ESC. I had it off before. This made it easier to be aggressive on corner entry while still maintaining what little consistency I had . It was kind of weird in a way. I was used to using a lot of brake to slow down a lot to keep from over-shooting, but I found that I could go into the corner a lot faster if I just trusted the dynamic brake. I need more practice with it to get used to it.
- Late in the night, with the car working decently (better than the driver at least) I reduced front up-travel from my initial setting of 3-3.5mm down to 2-2.5mm. This helped the car on corner exit a lot, really reduced the diffing-out problem, and made the car work even better through the high-speed transition.
- In the last qualifier my fast lap was 14.2x with the average looking to be about 14.7ish. Some bad luck with traffic threw me off my pace so I pulled the car to avoid frustration. The only change between then and my B-main was less front droop and fresh tires. I only did 8 laps in the b-main, because I got caught in an accident in front of me in the first corner dropping to 8th / last place, drove 4-5 smooth laps to get back up to third feeling like I had the pace to at least catch 2nd. Then I caught a dot and traction rolled, then started overdriving and making more mistakes, went all trying to stay ahead of the people that I didn't want to have to pass again, and eventually just pulled the car. But... during those 4-5 smooth laps, my fast lap was down to 13.9 and the average was looking like it would shape up to be 3-4 tenths faster.

So a good night from the point of view of getting the car working better, but a bad night in terms of actual racing. :/

-Mike

EDIT: I had mistyped hole 3 in front before, it's actually hole 1. Fixed above.

Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

Thanks

crash666

im looking to pu a 6.1 to race this year in a 17.5 blinky class on asphalt. my question is,are people running the 6.1 stock out of the box or changing things like the spool and gear diff.any help would be appreciated.

mesa80

iTrader: (1)

on asphalt i run gear diff and spool and as far as the spool it's driver preference ive seen guys run gear diff up front on really technical high grip carpet. I never switch any thing in reguards to drivetrain besides oil and gearing .But to each his own

mesa80

iTrader: (1)

I was wondering our the majority of touring car drivers mounting their motor fans to pull or push air cause i have mine mounted and just wondering is it better to pull cool air over the motor or pull the heat away from the motor

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

When your food is hot do you blow on it or suck air in front of it?

Push air onto.

Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

PG-13 Banned ...lol

gom

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again Mike. that clears up some questions in my head. initially i thought you meant adding 1mm shim in the front fwd mount only. it makes more sense now after you explained it again that the shimming to both fwd and rwd mounts is to add front wheel base hence reduces roll a bit. i think i'll try that next time.

A weird thing i found though is that in some of Keven Hebert's most recent setup, he had 0.5mm more shimming in the front fwd mount than front rwd mount. That's similar to what i thought you suggested (which was my misunderstanding). now it really makes me wonder why he did that.

Regarding front camber link hole 1 or hole 7. it seems that most people found hole 1 better ever since the tc6.1 came out. i am not sure if that's because tc6.1 geometry is different from tc6. or drivers just found hole 1 to be faster overall. I always thought tc6.1 and tc6 geometry is exactly the same. but now I am confused. Can some one verify this?

oldrcr

iTrader: (46)

I have been trying to get some 6.1 steering blocks, #31360, but no one has stock. Any word as to the ETA?

Thanks.