Team Associated TC6 Thread
#3046
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
Just another perspective on this arm mount discussion...
When I am at the track I spend time looking over my car before each run to ensure the entire car is ready for racing. I think checking the arm holders is just part of the process, and something I do before every run.
I see a lot of effort around trying to ensure that the arm holders do not move, but really what is the impact during a race? If the arm holder rotates .15-.25 mm due to a large impact do you think you can actually feel it? I guess what I am saying is that I am just not sure all of this effort is really worth it. The arm mounts have been used on touring cars for a long time and they have proven to hold up over time. The other options have issues as well during large impacts, and I would rather have to readjust a plastic block then having to replace a $15-20 aluminum block. There are always pros and cons to each design...I happen to really like the flexibility that comes with these arm mounts and willing to accept the maintenance that might be associated with them.
During a very big impact something has to give or you just end up with a bunch of bent metal or torn carbon fiber plates, I personally think that breaking a 10 cent plastic arm mount is a good compromise.
I understand that people want to trust the arm mounts and never have to adjust them, but to be honest I think it creates good habits on checking and maintaining your car.
When I am at the track I spend time looking over my car before each run to ensure the entire car is ready for racing. I think checking the arm holders is just part of the process, and something I do before every run.
I see a lot of effort around trying to ensure that the arm holders do not move, but really what is the impact during a race? If the arm holder rotates .15-.25 mm due to a large impact do you think you can actually feel it? I guess what I am saying is that I am just not sure all of this effort is really worth it. The arm mounts have been used on touring cars for a long time and they have proven to hold up over time. The other options have issues as well during large impacts, and I would rather have to readjust a plastic block then having to replace a $15-20 aluminum block. There are always pros and cons to each design...I happen to really like the flexibility that comes with these arm mounts and willing to accept the maintenance that might be associated with them.
During a very big impact something has to give or you just end up with a bunch of bent metal or torn carbon fiber plates, I personally think that breaking a 10 cent plastic arm mount is a good compromise.
I understand that people want to trust the arm mounts and never have to adjust them, but to be honest I think it creates good habits on checking and maintaining your car.
#3047
+1
Even on suspension block cars like Tamiya they still move somewhat, its just one part of checking your car between runs.
Even on suspension block cars like Tamiya they still move somewhat, its just one part of checking your car between runs.
#3049
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Thanks for the great support Art....how bout giving those free blocks I sent you to Reedy to someone that will use and appreciate the work put into them and what they really do save.
Last edited by Verndog; 06-27-2011 at 09:06 PM.
#3050
My experiance is more like up to 1mm after a days running, others reporting falling completely off, and if your running 2 classes, and being forced to adjust every run is excessive time lost that could be used for something more valuable. It can also contribute to something else being overlooked. As to what does it hurt?? As the arm rotates you are actually causing arm angles as they pivot. Without knowing it you are adding anti or pro dive as they pivot because usually only 1 side turns. This also causes droop and ride height to change. As far as replacing a "$15.00" block (they cost $3.50 ea), ...if you are referring to the PPD blocks they are guaranteed not to break, bend or strip....if they do you'll get a free replacement.
Thanks for the great support Art....how bout giving those free blocks I sent you to Reedy to someone that will use and appreciate the work put into them and what they really do save.
Thanks for the great support Art....how bout giving those free blocks I sent you to Reedy to someone that will use and appreciate the work put into them and what they really do save.
i have order a full set from a shop here in Aust looking forward to running them as i only had one race meet with the tc6 and did find them moving every now and agin not a big thing tho car still handling well but would be nice to know that they will stay put with the dial a grips.
#3051
I talked to Sean C. Friday and its scheduled for early September. So figure it might be available for IIC if there aren't too many set backs.
#3052
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
My experiance is more like up to 1mm after a days running, others reporting falling completely off, and if your running 2 classes, and being forced to adjust every run is excessive time lost that could be used for something more valuable. It can also contribute to something else being overlooked. As to what does it hurt?? As the arm rotates you are actually causing arm angles as they pivot. Without knowing it you are adding anti or pro dive as they pivot because usually only 1 side turns. This also causes droop and ride height to change. As far as replacing a "$15.00" block (they cost $3.50 ea), ...if you are referring to the PPD blocks they are guaranteed not to break, bend or strip....if they do you'll get a free replacement.
Thanks for the great support Art....how bout giving those free blocks I sent you to Reedy to someone that will use and appreciate the work put into them and what they really do save.
Thanks for the great support Art....how bout giving those free blocks I sent you to Reedy to someone that will use and appreciate the work put into them and what they really do save.
I was not actually talking about the Dial-a-grip blocks that you created, but was more talking about twisting the aluminum toe blocks from cars like the Tamiya and Hotbodies.
I think it is great that you created a product that is meeting the needs of many racers out there and have noticed that your design is getting a lot of support around the world.
I was not even close to criticizing the work you have done, and would gladly send back the blocks if you PM me your address, as I stated previously in PM.
#3053
During a very big impact something has to give or you just end up with a bunch of bent metal or torn carbon fiber plates, I personally think that breaking a 10 cent plastic arm mount is a good compromise.
I understand that people want to trust the arm mounts and never have to adjust them, but to be honest I think it creates good habits on checking and maintaining your car.
I understand that people want to trust the arm mounts and never have to adjust them, but to be honest I think it creates good habits on checking and maintaining your car.
It happened to me. It was a fast impact into a spectator bench after my car was hit from behind. The front left arm of the front axle broke. The suspension arm then turned backwards with the rest of the suspension and damper because the rear left arm was still holding everything. The shock became a lever and broke my shock tower... C-hub and everything else was OK. I would have been happier if the c-hub or suspension arm would have been destroyed because these parts do I always carry. But the shocktower?! These things never break, only when the armmount breaks
So I am happy with the dial-a-grip. It is 10 grams more weight, but saves a lot of time not having to recheck and retighten after every race.
Just my two cents...
#3054
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Have ever broke one armmount?
It happened to me. It was a fast impact into a spectator bench after my car was hit from behind. The front left arm of the front axle broke. The suspension arm then turned backwards with the rest of the suspension and damper because the rear left arm was still holding everything. The shock became a lever and broke my shock tower... C-hub and everything else was OK. I would have been happier if the c-hub or suspension arm would have been destroyed because these parts do I always carry. But the shocktower?! These things never break, only when the armmount breaks
So I am happy with the dial-a-grip. It is 10 grams more weight, but saves a lot of time not having to recheck and retighten after every race.
Just my two cents...
It happened to me. It was a fast impact into a spectator bench after my car was hit from behind. The front left arm of the front axle broke. The suspension arm then turned backwards with the rest of the suspension and damper because the rear left arm was still holding everything. The shock became a lever and broke my shock tower... C-hub and everything else was OK. I would have been happier if the c-hub or suspension arm would have been destroyed because these parts do I always carry. But the shocktower?! These things never break, only when the armmount breaks
So I am happy with the dial-a-grip. It is 10 grams more weight, but saves a lot of time not having to recheck and retighten after every race.
Just my two cents...
#3056
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
About a-arms mounts.
They suck because sucks
In tc5 screw come from another side.
if want have it right, just redril holes, put tc5 blue tubes and DONE!
Anyway, they need only two stoppers, at front and rear end of car.
In RWD rotates when done bad by builder ;-)
Anyway, too much allu in suspension gives breaking parts that they never break when use plastics.
I will stay with plastics, only a-arm mounts break when REALLY HARD hit something in modified
Now I will do chassis for Saturday race, and then few days latter I will do ETS finals
Btw, small tip for shocks, just add 2mm spacer on shaft, it moves spring retainer up so it doesn't touch a-arm.
They suck because sucks
In tc5 screw come from another side.
if want have it right, just redril holes, put tc5 blue tubes and DONE!
Anyway, they need only two stoppers, at front and rear end of car.
In RWD rotates when done bad by builder ;-)
Anyway, too much allu in suspension gives breaking parts that they never break when use plastics.
I will stay with plastics, only a-arm mounts break when REALLY HARD hit something in modified
Now I will do chassis for Saturday race, and then few days latter I will do ETS finals
Btw, small tip for shocks, just add 2mm spacer on shaft, it moves spring retainer up so it doesn't touch a-arm.
#3057
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Have ever broke one armmount?
It happened to me. It was a fast impact into a spectator bench after my car was hit from behind. The front left arm of the front axle broke. The suspension arm then turned backwards with the rest of the suspension and damper because the rear left arm was still holding everything. The shock became a lever and broke my shock tower... C-hub and everything else was OK. I would have been happier if the c-hub or suspension arm would have been destroyed because these parts do I always carry. But the shocktower?! These things never break, only when the armmount breaks
So I am happy with the dial-a-grip. It is 10 grams more weight, but saves a lot of time not having to recheck and retighten after every race.
Just my two cents...
It happened to me. It was a fast impact into a spectator bench after my car was hit from behind. The front left arm of the front axle broke. The suspension arm then turned backwards with the rest of the suspension and damper because the rear left arm was still holding everything. The shock became a lever and broke my shock tower... C-hub and everything else was OK. I would have been happier if the c-hub or suspension arm would have been destroyed because these parts do I always carry. But the shocktower?! These things never break, only when the armmount breaks
So I am happy with the dial-a-grip. It is 10 grams more weight, but saves a lot of time not having to recheck and retighten after every race.
Just my two cents...
#3058
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
Have ever broke one armmount?
It happened to me. It was a fast impact into a spectator bench after my car was hit from behind. The front left arm of the front axle broke. The suspension arm then turned backwards with the rest of the suspension and damper because the rear left arm was still holding everything. The shock became a lever and broke my shock tower... C-hub and everything else was OK. I would have been happier if the c-hub or suspension arm would have been destroyed because these parts do I always carry. But the shocktower?! These things never break, only when the armmount breaks
So I am happy with the dial-a-grip. It is 10 grams more weight, but saves a lot of time not having to recheck and retighten after every race.
Just my two cents...
It happened to me. It was a fast impact into a spectator bench after my car was hit from behind. The front left arm of the front axle broke. The suspension arm then turned backwards with the rest of the suspension and damper because the rear left arm was still holding everything. The shock became a lever and broke my shock tower... C-hub and everything else was OK. I would have been happier if the c-hub or suspension arm would have been destroyed because these parts do I always carry. But the shocktower?! These things never break, only when the armmount breaks
So I am happy with the dial-a-grip. It is 10 grams more weight, but saves a lot of time not having to recheck and retighten after every race.
Just my two cents...
#3059
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
The age old debate..."don't make it to strong or something else will break" is a never ending argument with no winners. But in all fairness each part in question needs to be analyzed with its own parameters separately from other parts when considering this argument. What I can tell you is with over 70 sets now out, we've heard or seen no reported increase in parts breakage, and when you really look at the impact chain I personally don't think we ever will. Impact chain in collision>>> First is rubber tire mounted to plastic wheel , connected to plastic steering knuckle, connected to plastic C hub connected to plastic arm, connected to hardened steel hinge pin, connected to plastic vs aluminum mount, connected to aluminum bulkhead. That makes 5 plastic or rubber parts to flex or absorb impact before hitting the new aluminum part...sounds like plenty to me. So if the mount doesn't break then what does? Prob. the C hub or arm...and in 1+ months we have zero broken here with major crash testing included.....and...time for a hot dog at break.