MRC / Academy SB Sport 4wd Buggy
08-14-2004, 01:07 AM
#706
Tech Apprentice
hinge pin mod
a modification I made because I kept losing e-clips on rough surfaces.
If you have access to metrical hardware, this one is quite easy to do, just take 4 M3x45mm cap head screws that have a 25mm shaft and some locknuts.
Front:
Make the threads further onto the shaft so that it is 23mm (instead of 25mm) long, cut the screw so that there is ~ 4mm thread left.
Rear:
Keep the shaft as it is and cut the screw so that there is ~ 4mm thread left.
The picture gives you an impression how to do it:
So what are the advantages?
1. You'll be able to disassemble the suspension within seconds, not fiddling with those e-clips
2. You can't loose these if you had problems with the hinge pins coming off earlier.
3. As play develops, you can eliminate it by gently(!) thighten the locknut further. Too much thightening will result in suspension binding.
If you have access to metrical hardware, this one is quite easy to do, just take 4 M3x45mm cap head screws that have a 25mm shaft and some locknuts.
Front:
Make the threads further onto the shaft so that it is 23mm (instead of 25mm) long, cut the screw so that there is ~ 4mm thread left.
Rear:
Keep the shaft as it is and cut the screw so that there is ~ 4mm thread left.
The picture gives you an impression how to do it:
So what are the advantages?
1. You'll be able to disassemble the suspension within seconds, not fiddling with those e-clips
2. You can't loose these if you had problems with the hinge pins coming off earlier.
3. As play develops, you can eliminate it by gently(!) thighten the locknut further. Too much thightening will result in suspension binding.
08-14-2004, 05:08 AM
#707
I've been reading this thread for a while and have been impressed with this car (I'm thinking of getting one, my kids have Neo Griffins), and I was having a look at the motor mount which seems to be a problem and I was wondering if anyone had tried this:
Basically you cut the top deck just past the first hole going over the motor cam part (orange arrow in picture), this will allow the mount a little more flexibilty when tightening it down.
The second is to tap a 3mm/ 4/40 hole in that part of the mount (blue arrow) and put a screw there and tighten it down after you've tightened the normal screw. This is similar to a xx4, so it should work.
Anyone tried this?
Basically you cut the top deck just past the first hole going over the motor cam part (orange arrow in picture), this will allow the mount a little more flexibilty when tightening it down.
The second is to tap a 3mm/ 4/40 hole in that part of the mount (blue arrow) and put a screw there and tighten it down after you've tightened the normal screw. This is similar to a xx4, so it should work.
Anyone tried this?
08-14-2004, 08:26 AM
#708
I'm gonna be ordering an SB today and was wondering what spares I should order with it. What are the weak parts? Thanks!
08-14-2004, 08:45 AM
#710
Are the differential screws a problem on the SB?
08-14-2004, 08:54 AM
#711
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
They can be if the diff is left to slip, or you over tighten the diff, the other thing you could do is to order a thrust race and diff screw kit for the STR4 Rally, it is a thicker screw with smaller thrust race balls. I haven't done a screw, but I know those who have.
08-14-2004, 09:05 AM
#712
I know someone who snapped there diff screw, but I am not sure if it happend by him installing it the wrong way. Make sure that you setup the diff as it shows in the book.
If you have a dremel, you will want to waffle the cam as it has been discussed. I haven't had any more motor mount fall out issues since I have done that.
For spares, I would pickup a set of front arms and some axles, etc. If you kit comes with the plastic hexes, use those instead of the aluminum ones. Or, you can also see about using traxxas stampede hexes, I think the will work.
If you have a dremel, you will want to waffle the cam as it has been discussed. I haven't had any more motor mount fall out issues since I have done that.
For spares, I would pickup a set of front arms and some axles, etc. If you kit comes with the plastic hexes, use those instead of the aluminum ones. Or, you can also see about using traxxas stampede hexes, I think the will work.
08-14-2004, 09:23 PM
#713
Tech Initiate
Well racing went well tonight. I managed to take second. The battle for 2, 3, 4 place was constant through the whole race. First was about three seconds up.
The car performed excellent after I figured out how to drive it on the new track.
I recieved the new slipper and 70 tooth spur gear so I did not shut down this week from over heating.
Everyone at the track was impressed with the car this week. There only concern is getting parts.
To get the center dog bone to seat better I shimmed the front cup out reducing the distance between to two cups.
The car performed excellent after I figured out how to drive it on the new track.
I recieved the new slipper and 70 tooth spur gear so I did not shut down this week from over heating.
Everyone at the track was impressed with the car this week. There only concern is getting parts.
To get the center dog bone to seat better I shimmed the front cup out reducing the distance between to two cups.
08-14-2004, 11:31 PM
#714
DUH, what is your basic setup/track surface you are racing on? I ran mine for the first time tonight and managed to pull the left front A arm out of the mount, bending the hinge pin. Nothing a hammer and a bit of patience couldnt fix. Cant wait to get out there and really try and sort out this car.
08-15-2004, 06:33 PM
#715
cain- u run for academy? if so please shoot me a pm about sponsorship
Last edited by Biscuit; 08-15-2004 at 07:45 PM.
08-15-2004, 07:01 PM
#716
Good job racing guys.
The hinge pins can be bent pretty straight. If you rather new stuff I think you can get a pack of 4 for like 5 bucks or less.
Biscuit: I don't race for academy but I do keep in touch with Tim at MRC who is probably the best person to speak with there and the nicest you will meet. He gives me info on the vehicle and anything I bring up to him to address with Academy he does. If you want to be sponsored, give Tim at MRC a holler and give him your credentials. One of the sponsored drivers posts at www.rc10b4.com His handle is rickster.
The hinge pins can be bent pretty straight. If you rather new stuff I think you can get a pack of 4 for like 5 bucks or less.
Biscuit: I don't race for academy but I do keep in touch with Tim at MRC who is probably the best person to speak with there and the nicest you will meet. He gives me info on the vehicle and anything I bring up to him to address with Academy he does. If you want to be sponsored, give Tim at MRC a holler and give him your credentials. One of the sponsored drivers posts at www.rc10b4.com His handle is rickster.
