DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

Like I have said in previous posts, the issue of snapping axles has been resolved in the UK, maybe it is just a matter of time for NEW axles to filter down from the importer in the States, all other team drivers run the kit axles, and NONE have reported problems now, and some have returned to using the plastic hexes.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

There were plastic hexes included with the kit? I dont' remember seeing any but I will look when I get home.

So what is the primary difference between these axles we got and the ones you got now? Is it just a better metal?

DaCookieMonsta: What do you guys do to eliminate the binding on the front wheels when you crank down the nuts. I know you can back the nuts off, but if there is something else you can do that would be great to know.

ThreeEwes: What is your setup so far besides the oil?

I bet the axle just couldn't hold up to the normal jumping and was probably already cracked or so by the time it had come off.

I think you could mount MIP CVDs you just need to mount the smaller bearing inside the larger one so you have the same size all the way through. I am just not sure what set would work. You could also try mounting the bearing in the big bushing since you are just turning inside the smaller bearing ideally and you probably could get a better fit . Anyone got the time today and is curious about this should shoot MIP a call.

I am still interested in mounting a better front bumper, one that extends out further. I will see what the hobbyshop has in stock for RPM bumpers ( mini ones ) and see what it would take to mount.

That sucks about the motor mount, I think that even if he left the washer in, it would have still happened as you would have felt it wasn't tight enough as when I was tightening it down I felt the same way about it before I took out the washer, now I tighten it down till it is just snug, and then add alittle more.

I plan to also look into the better motor mount in the future if this one fails, though honestly, I think the Kose style one is the hot ticket as it will also ( knock on wood ) put the soldering tabs facing more up so you can solder your connections like on a tc3 and can run shorter wire. Right now you have to compensate for the turn of the camm with longer wire.

Other than these teething issues, the kit performs. It is probably one of the best jumping 4wds I have seen and it feels very balanced.

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

Cain, for the resolve issue witht he binding wheels, check the reply at raceacademy, I shall be working on a cure over the weekend.

As for the axles, I don't know what the difference is, whether the job was sub contracted out, or the metal department had a kick up the bum, but our problems have been solved.

As for the hexes, I think they came in the pack with the driveshafts.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks Cookie, I will take a look and see. I probably have them and just didn't think much about it at the time.

Have you tried the chassis trimming trick for more droop?

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

No, I did remember chatting to Chris Mills one race meeting about it after seeing the wishbones fouling on the chassis, and made a comment about trimming it, but there has been far more important issues to sort out on the car.

As for the spacer, I got some stainless steel tubing, and will endeavour to make up a spacer, once fitted and I know it is doing what it should I will post the dimensions on raceacademy site ok, giving the length of the spacer in metric (and imperial for you Americans )

spreck

I know you disagree with me about the axels, but I dont think y ou understood the fix completely I may even try taking the hexes off my mst to see if the fir and are the right size for the wheel if they fit i will just order 4 more and problem solved Im telling ya my mst was shearing axels at the exact same place and mugen said the had come out with better ones but the did the same thing and as soon as I put on the thinker alum. (clamping) hexes I have not sheared an axel since.

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

I think I understand why too, with a clamping hex, it transfers some of the drive to the pure clamping fixing, and maybe doesn't allow any slop in the drive pin. The alloy hex requires you to trim down the pin a little for some, but, the plastic ones are a snugger fit, stopping any ROCK in the pin.

threeEwes

Cain :


I switched the pistons disks from #1 to 2 in the front, and from 2 to 3 in the back (associated b3) . Then I ran gold rear springs on the rear shocks and rear green springs in the front with NO shock clips. Those short springs just arent cutting it-I see those ran here with 3 or more shock clips-so I figured just try the 60 mm springs in the front. The bottoming out issue will be reduced. BTW I use shock limiters... The discussion about the chassis trimming is interesting...before I do that to the kit chassis I'll make another one out of carbon fiber and I'll experiment with that one.

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

They do a carbon fibre chassis for the SB.

The reason for the extra droop on the rear is that the car does like to pitch thr front end into the corner, and CAN leave the inner rear wheel weighltess and hence overload the outside wheel.

threeEwes

Carbon fiber cost me 58 usd a 5' x 8' sheet + I can design a better one.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I went ahead and did the trimming , it really isn't much trimming you do, less is more and it does let it hang down better and I didn't need to cut the under tray at all ( if you do it right that is ).

The B4 shocks on the rear are DEAD ON. Can't wait to run this.

I also found the plastic hexes, work well from what I can tell.hold on tighter.

so you needed bigger pistons in the rear? interesting. How was it handling with those changes?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Well, didn't get a chance to run today. My LHS that I order parts from wasn't able to get the axles, not MRCs fault as the arrangement to pick them up was not completed by my LHS.

Tim is going to ship them out to me, so I should have them for next weeks running.

Sucks as I really wanted to run it tonite too.

Oh well, maybe next time. If I get them in tuesday I can at least go up and practice.

I got some good news though. The track I race at I spoke with the director there to see if he was going to get some Academy kits in and parts, and he told me that he placed the order and will have several of the kits in, has someone already wanting the vehicle, and will be stocking parts as well.

He is a really cool guy to, runs a XXX-4 G+. Looks like 4wd is going to take off at the track as there is lots of interest in running mod with brushless motors. He will also stock every part there!

re-inferno

...managed to take a crappy pic with a crappy cam.

Sorry for the bad quality, but it should be clear how the extended double deck works.

http://www.offroad-cult.org/Forum/im...40703/SB_1.jpg


This thing is a tank, can't say anything else!
Just went throug some batteries today, the brushless makes the buggy really fly - too fast sometimes, smashed into a concrete sidewall where my former Losi XXX would be left in pieces... nothing happend, there hasn't even any play developed in the suspension.
The double deck does't seem to interfere with the chassis structure creating any weak points. The front shock tower won't damage the gearbox, because the load is directly transfered to the top deck now. I really tried my best to break this thing

The only thing I don't like are the kit-shocks. I might change them next week, don't know yet which ones I'm going to mount.

A word to the flex in the steering; Using alloy servo mounts helps a lot. As you can see in the picture, I used some blue no-name servo mounts and they help to reduce the flex very much.
Also the servo horn is on the flexible side. I'll try a Losi XXX one next week and keep you informed.

To all those having problems with the motor mount: DO NOT TAKE OUT THE SHIM!!
You won't get a much better grip on the cam, but extreme stresses on the clamp. And stresses and cast metal don't mix to well so you'll eventually break it.
Instead, just try the machined cam! It's much cheaper than the whole machined motor mount, and it will hold up much better, because the cast metal cam will give, when screwed very thight due to the holes.
I didn't have any troubles with the machined cam though I don't use loctite on the screw either or screw it down that hard.

threeEwes

Great suggestion about the machined cam!

re-inferno

Well, I guess I'm in the club now... just broke a cvd axle myself

Has been a really hard crash, and I wonder that nothing more had happened, but the fracture of the axle looks really bad; the material has kind of crystalized like cast-iron... don't like that

I'll see if my LHS can get the ST-82A, otherwise I'll be running dogbones all around