MRC / Academy SB Sport 4wd Buggy
#331
Hey, out of curiousity...
Have any of youguys added up how much you've spent on this car to make it race worthy i.e. B4 shocks, etc? I'm wondering if it still comes out to be cheaper than a used XXX4...
Because I put on my T3 ad "Will trade for SB Sport or XXX4..." so I was just curious...
Thanks
Jeff
Have any of youguys added up how much you've spent on this car to make it race worthy i.e. B4 shocks, etc? I'm wondering if it still comes out to be cheaper than a used XXX4...
Because I put on my T3 ad "Will trade for SB Sport or XXX4..." so I was just curious...
Thanks
Jeff
#332
So far the parts that I put on that the XXX-4 would come with would be the better shocks and full ball bearings. I got the shocks for $30 the completer bearings to the level of the XXX-4 was about $10 ( remember certain areas don't have bearings on team kits ).
If you want team style turnbuckles, it would be max $10 as the stock steel turnbuckles can be had cheap.
I say all together about $200 as a 1 to 1 with a stock XXX-4 new. So its about the same as a stock XXX-4.
T3s nowadays go pretty cheap, so you may have to throw in some cash to trade towards either car. If it was a T4 you probably could do a 1 to 1 trade.
If you want team style turnbuckles, it would be max $10 as the stock steel turnbuckles can be had cheap.
I say all together about $200 as a 1 to 1 with a stock XXX-4 new. So its about the same as a stock XXX-4.
T3s nowadays go pretty cheap, so you may have to throw in some cash to trade towards either car. If it was a T4 you probably could do a 1 to 1 trade.
#333
Yeah, that's what sucks... I wish I had some electronics I didn't need to throw in it to get a little more....
Well, I could do that too....
Well, I could do that too....
#334
Also I'm debating if I'd be at a loss or at a gain if I traded Chris for his XR3i...?
#335
to all:
I'm going to try and mill some spur gears-78, 81,84,85, made by losi, associated and kimbrough to fit the sport. I'll let you know how it comes out.
I'm going to try and mill some spur gears-78, 81,84,85, made by losi, associated and kimbrough to fit the sport. I'll let you know how it comes out.
#336
Yeah, let us know, I'm getting more and more interested in this buggy..... Need to get rid of some stuff first though!
#337
Tech Adept
Originally posted by LosiFromHell986
ThreeEwes, YGPM
ThreeEwes, YGPM
i got a brand new in the box yokomo superdogfighter 2 that i would consider selling. i paid $279 for it about a month ago. i opened the box, took a quick look at the number of bags, and i haven't opened it since. i would sell it to you, but first, how old are you?
PS. if you dont know who i am, ask 3 ewes.
#338
I'm 15, and I'm on a TIGHT budget. If you go to Family Hobbies, we could do a deal there... where do you get parts for it?
#339
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
To make car car quick and pretty competitve, I fitted hub bearings, B4 springs (not the shocks) and either MIP or Racers Edge shock seals.
To fine tune for our high grip tracks, there has been a one way, carbon top decks, and a Slipper Clutch when us B-Team drivers get our sticky mits on them after the fully sponsored guys have. Other than that, nothing, still works out far cheaper.
On our grass tracks over in the UK, the SB out accelerates anything (except a Predator) in a straight line or out of a corner.
To fine tune for our high grip tracks, there has been a one way, carbon top decks, and a Slipper Clutch when us B-Team drivers get our sticky mits on them after the fully sponsored guys have. Other than that, nothing, still works out far cheaper.
On our grass tracks over in the UK, the SB out accelerates anything (except a Predator) in a straight line or out of a corner.
#340
No complaints here for the acceleration part. This thing is like a bat out of hell as far as how it punches. I could easily clear the figure eight jump from a stop with only 4 feet to go to the end of the jump. so you really need the power down on the ground.
I just need to get used to setting up the car to perform all around the track and accept the fact that it will bottom out on the jumps we use here in the US.
I called my LHS to have them order some of those spurs and see if MRC carries them. I will call MRC monday and speak with Tim to make sure they do. I hope they do as it will do the trick as the 70T I think is too small, 72T would have been the ticket or even bigger.
Dacookiemonsta: Do you know if Academy has any plans to make more spur gear sizes? I would like to know also what the max size you probably could fit in the vehicle.
I just need to get used to setting up the car to perform all around the track and accept the fact that it will bottom out on the jumps we use here in the US.
I called my LHS to have them order some of those spurs and see if MRC carries them. I will call MRC monday and speak with Tim to make sure they do. I hope they do as it will do the trick as the 70T I think is too small, 72T would have been the ticket or even bigger.
Dacookiemonsta: Do you know if Academy has any plans to make more spur gear sizes? I would like to know also what the max size you probably could fit in the vehicle.
#341
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
I wouldn't of thought they would make much bigger, as it will start to protrude through the chassis and foul on the bottom tray, but there is nothing stopping yourself aproaching the like of Robinson Racing and asking if they could do a test batch of spur gears for the SB.
As for bottoming out, as long as the car lands straight, I am not worried about it bottoming out, it is how it handles and rides the bumps here in the UK that causes the most thought on car setups. A jump is only 5% of the track, no point dialing in the shocks for BIG air and nifty landing unless you are doing it Freestyle, lol.
As for bottoming out, as long as the car lands straight, I am not worried about it bottoming out, it is how it handles and rides the bumps here in the UK that causes the most thought on car setups. A jump is only 5% of the track, no point dialing in the shocks for BIG air and nifty landing unless you are doing it Freestyle, lol.
#342
Heres the latest...
after 3 runs-the sport went through a good goings over.
I replaced the stock ball cups with RPM ball cups. A lot of the binding that was happening in the front end was happening in the steering linkage.
I added the b3 turn buckles for easement of adjustment.
The steering link towards the front of the sport -(the plastic) had to be shaved off a bit so the link wouldn't bind as you move left to right
I added the b3 FTK shocks-rebuilt with 40w , # 3 disc in the back and # 2 disc in the front-The shock eyelet bottoms I used were the sport eyelets because the associated ones wouldn't fit. For the the next series of tests I'm using green springs in the front and gold springs in the back.
As cain mentioned before- the buggy will bottom out. I wasn't aware of just how bad it bottoms out but with this setup I have right now I seems not likely to bottom out but more likely for the entire car to be bouncy-not neccesarily a good thing either. Got work with that a bit.
The source of the clicking noise WAS coming from the rear axle shaft and the dogbone. In trhe rear outdrive hubs I used a small piece of fuel tubing. The piece of fuel tubing was just a bit too big because what was happening was as the car was driven over bumps and jumps-the rear suspension arms would compress and the angle of the compression would force the arms /dogbones upward and in the joint where they meet due to the fuel tubing doing a spring like motion forcing the dogbones outward and the top (pointing upward-top) tip on the end of the dog bone would click on the inside the top of the axle shaft. This click could be heard form both sides of the buggy and it was loud. That was any easy fix though...
I used losi ifmar studs tires in the front and Proline step in in the rear. TOns of traction but it seems that these tires fit but they are just a bit too big... they throw the car off balance a little..
sure offroad ...this shouldn't matter that much but to does to me!
Next time I'll use the academy tires.
The one bad note...I broke the pot metal motor mount tightening it. I thought it would happen though...pot metal not good for anything...
Tommorrow I'll look into these milled spur gears I think the B4 78 tooth would be perfect for the sport. any bigger and the gear would rub up against the rear battery guard.
I'll keep you guys posted of anything new.
Regards,
Threeewes
after 3 runs-the sport went through a good goings over.
I replaced the stock ball cups with RPM ball cups. A lot of the binding that was happening in the front end was happening in the steering linkage.
I added the b3 turn buckles for easement of adjustment.
The steering link towards the front of the sport -(the plastic) had to be shaved off a bit so the link wouldn't bind as you move left to right
I added the b3 FTK shocks-rebuilt with 40w , # 3 disc in the back and # 2 disc in the front-The shock eyelet bottoms I used were the sport eyelets because the associated ones wouldn't fit. For the the next series of tests I'm using green springs in the front and gold springs in the back.
As cain mentioned before- the buggy will bottom out. I wasn't aware of just how bad it bottoms out but with this setup I have right now I seems not likely to bottom out but more likely for the entire car to be bouncy-not neccesarily a good thing either. Got work with that a bit.
The source of the clicking noise WAS coming from the rear axle shaft and the dogbone. In trhe rear outdrive hubs I used a small piece of fuel tubing. The piece of fuel tubing was just a bit too big because what was happening was as the car was driven over bumps and jumps-the rear suspension arms would compress and the angle of the compression would force the arms /dogbones upward and in the joint where they meet due to the fuel tubing doing a spring like motion forcing the dogbones outward and the top (pointing upward-top) tip on the end of the dog bone would click on the inside the top of the axle shaft. This click could be heard form both sides of the buggy and it was loud. That was any easy fix though...
I used losi ifmar studs tires in the front and Proline step in in the rear. TOns of traction but it seems that these tires fit but they are just a bit too big... they throw the car off balance a little..
sure offroad ...this shouldn't matter that much but to does to me!
Next time I'll use the academy tires.
The one bad note...I broke the pot metal motor mount tightening it. I thought it would happen though...pot metal not good for anything...
Tommorrow I'll look into these milled spur gears I think the B4 78 tooth would be perfect for the sport. any bigger and the gear would rub up against the rear battery guard.
I'll keep you guys posted of anything new.
Regards,
Threeewes
#343
Thanks for the update threeEwes. If you get those spur gears to work let us know, I would love to purchase some off of you. A bigger spur will also position the motor so you don't have as much wire wrap around to get to the connections on the motor. It almost seems like the motor should have its tabs moved 90 degrees.
I think bottoming out is something that comes with offroad territory, especially on bumpy tracks. As a former onroad guy and offroad but indoor on carpet, bottoming out is a bad thing. But looking at how the drivers do it at my track, its a small price to pay for the handling you get. Now I know why people love to use that AE chassis bottom covers and I am glad out bottom tray is so thick .
I didn't get a chance to take apart my buggy yesterday and I don't think I will get a chance to today since its my wife and I anniversary, so if I do rc today, I will be in the dog house.
For tires, I would go studs all around if you felt the fronts were doing the job. Thats what they run at my track at night or when its a cloudy day. when the ground is dry, the kit tires will hook up great. If they had better foams, these would be tires you should definitely look into for general use.
For setup, I am leaning towards using 35W all around and see how that feels on the track. My track, the LHS owner who runs a XXX-4 uses 27.5 weight oil to 30W oil on his buggy. His suspension is soft, but it really handles around the track.
This should be a good test to see how well the buggy holds up to jumps and the like.
If any of you guys can do this, give MRC a call today and speak with Tim about what spur gears they have in stock, in particular that 72T I listed. I won't get a chance to call till tommorrow and I would like to find out today if it will work.
I think bottoming out is something that comes with offroad territory, especially on bumpy tracks. As a former onroad guy and offroad but indoor on carpet, bottoming out is a bad thing. But looking at how the drivers do it at my track, its a small price to pay for the handling you get. Now I know why people love to use that AE chassis bottom covers and I am glad out bottom tray is so thick .
I didn't get a chance to take apart my buggy yesterday and I don't think I will get a chance to today since its my wife and I anniversary, so if I do rc today, I will be in the dog house.
For tires, I would go studs all around if you felt the fronts were doing the job. Thats what they run at my track at night or when its a cloudy day. when the ground is dry, the kit tires will hook up great. If they had better foams, these would be tires you should definitely look into for general use.
For setup, I am leaning towards using 35W all around and see how that feels on the track. My track, the LHS owner who runs a XXX-4 uses 27.5 weight oil to 30W oil on his buggy. His suspension is soft, but it really handles around the track.
This should be a good test to see how well the buggy holds up to jumps and the like.
If any of you guys can do this, give MRC a call today and speak with Tim about what spur gears they have in stock, in particular that 72T I listed. I won't get a chance to call till tommorrow and I would like to find out today if it will work.
#344
ThreeEwes, ygpm
Well, it looks like all attempts at trading for a 4wd buggy failed... so I'm starting to save for the SB Sport...
BTW, A friend wanted to know if there will be an SB Pro anytime soon?
Well, it looks like all attempts at trading for a 4wd buggy failed... so I'm starting to save for the SB Sport...
BTW, A friend wanted to know if there will be an SB Pro anytime soon?
#345
I called tim at mrc and he doesn't even list the st-t102 72 tooth. He'd said hed contact academy to research / request this if available.
Fat Chance...
I'll let you oknow how the milling comes out.
Fat Chance...
I'll let you oknow how the milling comes out.