MRC / Academy SB Sport 4wd Buggy
06-21-2004, 08:31 PM
#275
Good luck on getting one. My wife got me mine as an early father's day present.
I am quite happy with it. I may try the two upper decks in graphite to see how the vehicle feels and the one-way, but first have to see how tommorrow goes around the track.
I am quite happy with it. I may try the two upper decks in graphite to see how the vehicle feels and the one-way, but first have to see how tommorrow goes around the track.
06-21-2004, 08:52 PM
#276
yea, i've read just about all your posts. i guess we post in all the same places. you have this thread going on here, rccaractions site, and on rc10b4's. i guess i haven't seen godd enough shot of the car yet, but i din't realize it had a two piece top deck. it looks like one.
06-21-2004, 10:00 PM
#277
I just finished assembling 2 sb sports. Msuh let me borrow his digital camera to photograph the stages of the model completion along the way. Now I'll post it someplace just as a photographic guide to any that may need a tip here or there.
By friday I hope to test it.
Cain - I use a revolution 10 x 2 and the 70 spur gear...I'm using the bevel gears that came in the kit...which pinion can I use on the sb sport that won't overheat the motor?
Thanks
Did anyone notice just how close the battery bars are to the aluminum drive shaft when you have a set of cells in the car????
By friday I hope to test it.
Cain - I use a revolution 10 x 2 and the 70 spur gear...I'm using the bevel gears that came in the kit...which pinion can I use on the sb sport that won't overheat the motor?
Thanks
Did anyone notice just how close the battery bars are to the aluminum drive shaft when you have a set of cells in the car????
06-21-2004, 10:11 PM
#278
Tech Rookie
option parts
Do any of you guys know where A guy can purchase the hopups ie: carbon fiber/ front one way/ sway bars? I was also wondering as I dont have the kit yet (be here friday) the one way and sway bars are option parts correct?
06-22-2004, 05:22 AM
#280
I would call ultimatehobbies and see if they carry any of the hopups or if they can get it for you and how much they would charge. You can also get your lHS to order then from MRC for you.
The battery bars are close to the shaft, you can try pounding them down for piece of mind but since they wanted to keep the weight as close to the center I can see why that is. I haven't had a problem yet when bashing about smacking the bar against the shaft or drivecup, the battery holding system they use works pretty well and I am happy with it, one of the better ones out there for flat chassis.
I ran a 10x2 when I first got the kit, way too powerful for me. I think I read somewhere that you want a radio closer to 12 to start with? I think Orion's website also has a recommendation of where to start the gearing for these motors ( something like X over the wind for pinion gear selection )
For me when I ran a Pulse-R 10x2, I started at a 17T pinion for bashing and it worked great, I think I could have gone up 1 pinion size. I would run it for a good 3 - 4 minutes and check the motor temp to make sure it isn't too hot. When you do feel you have found a sweet spot post your findings. I hope to do the same tommorrow with recommendations for a 19T motor.
I like the doubledeck design that the vehicle has. The smaller upper deck stiffens up the front pretty well. I have read possibly here that if you use the graphite smaller upperdeck the car actually feels too stiff.
Depending on how things go today, I am thinking of getting the oneway system and a rear set of UJs.
The battery bars are close to the shaft, you can try pounding them down for piece of mind but since they wanted to keep the weight as close to the center I can see why that is. I haven't had a problem yet when bashing about smacking the bar against the shaft or drivecup, the battery holding system they use works pretty well and I am happy with it, one of the better ones out there for flat chassis.
I ran a 10x2 when I first got the kit, way too powerful for me. I think I read somewhere that you want a radio closer to 12 to start with? I think Orion's website also has a recommendation of where to start the gearing for these motors ( something like X over the wind for pinion gear selection )
For me when I ran a Pulse-R 10x2, I started at a 17T pinion for bashing and it worked great, I think I could have gone up 1 pinion size. I would run it for a good 3 - 4 minutes and check the motor temp to make sure it isn't too hot. When you do feel you have found a sweet spot post your findings. I hope to do the same tommorrow with recommendations for a 19T motor.
I like the doubledeck design that the vehicle has. The smaller upper deck stiffens up the front pretty well. I have read possibly here that if you use the graphite smaller upperdeck the car actually feels too stiff.
Depending on how things go today, I am thinking of getting the oneway system and a rear set of UJs.
06-22-2004, 02:01 PM
#281
Tech Rookie
ordering
just to find out for sure, when I order the front one way I need both st-t10,and st-t55 is this correct? is one the diff and other the outdrive?
06-22-2004, 09:03 PM
#283
Tech Rookie
thanks, My kit is arriving friday but I want to put the oneway in from the begining so I dont have to tear it apart again. I was also wondering if you guys have any other suggestions as far as "must have" hopups ,I got the wheel bearings,but how bout diff bearings ,or steering, And I know bout the b4 shock upgrade and turn buckels. But is there anything during the kit build that is like a must do, As this buggy is going straight from the box to the racetrack to compete any help will be appreciated. Oh one more thing has anyone found an online store to order parts and hopups from I coulnt even find an option parts list on MRC's website. thanks
06-23-2004, 01:36 AM
#284
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Right, firstly, the only issue with the kit shocks is the o-rings, with them being far too tight on the shaft, change them for MIP ones, and you are done. If you want more fine tuning, run AE shock pistons (might just have to turn them down a little) and B4 spring kit.
Carbon top deck makes it ride the bumps better, but, another trick is to buy a second Rear Battery Post, and there are two corresponding holes in the top deck and chassis, fit it there, it will make it stiffer.
As for building, make sure that the gear casings aperture for the diff output bearings, the plastice clears the inner race and thats about it realy, apart from shimming the boxes right.
The internal diff bearings and steering bearings are not realy needed to be honest.
If you are running rear dog bone driveshafts (I still am), then get some extre Prop shaft spacer springs (ST-22) and put one in each diff output, and an o-ring in the drive cup on the axle, and you will get no wear.
Carbon top deck makes it ride the bumps better, but, another trick is to buy a second Rear Battery Post, and there are two corresponding holes in the top deck and chassis, fit it there, it will make it stiffer.
As for building, make sure that the gear casings aperture for the diff output bearings, the plastice clears the inner race and thats about it realy, apart from shimming the boxes right.
The internal diff bearings and steering bearings are not realy needed to be honest.
If you are running rear dog bone driveshafts (I still am), then get some extre Prop shaft spacer springs (ST-22) and put one in each diff output, and an o-ring in the drive cup on the axle, and you will get no wear.
06-23-2004, 05:46 AM
#285
If running the kit shocks, make sure to pick the long upper and lower mounts when assembling as the directions I don't think mention this.
I got a quick review of my brief testing yesterday on my new track:
I managed to do about 10 laps around the track but while getting used to the power in the vehicle ( I think I may just use a stock motor for now ) and throttle control I jumped into the barrier on the side of the table top and broke the front arm. Of the hits I have taken this one wasn't the hardest, but it is possible that this arm was damaged from my previous full speed crash into a concrete wall head on. I should get a better durability test in this friday when I practice for the races.
My vehicle was setup with the following:
AE B4 Buggy Shocks all around
35W / 40W shock oil biased to the front
#2 pistons all around
AE blue springs in the rear, AE green buggy springs in the front
Bottom rear shock position on outer hole
Upper Rear shock position on middle hole
Bottom front shock position on middle hole
Upper front shock position on middle hole
The vehicle can really soar off the jumps and it really has blistering acceleration. I am going to fiddle some more with my ESC settings to get more power to the ground, though I can see others wanting the slipper.
The vehicle still bottomed out off of the medium jumps. So I am planning on going to 40W in the rear and #3 pistons up front as I have been advised by some drivers in the UK that the piston selection is what they use there for the front. I am also thinking of going to silver springs in the rear instead of the blues so it isn't as bouncy and possibly silvers up front depending on how the #3 pistons work out.
The kit tires I have been impressed with as they give similar performance to the holeshots, even with the stock foams. The vehicle had a whole lot of bite to it. Only thing is I have to redue my gluing as it started to come up on the tires. So make sure you got a good bond on there.
One upgrade they are working on that I think will also be a great buy is the metal steering arms as the plastic ones flex alittle more than I like. Once they got that out I see alot of the slop going away.
All in all for the brief time I ran the vehicle ( didn't have spare arms with me ) it was going well. Just need to tweak the setup some and it will be all set.
I got a quick review of my brief testing yesterday on my new track:
I managed to do about 10 laps around the track but while getting used to the power in the vehicle ( I think I may just use a stock motor for now ) and throttle control I jumped into the barrier on the side of the table top and broke the front arm. Of the hits I have taken this one wasn't the hardest, but it is possible that this arm was damaged from my previous full speed crash into a concrete wall head on. I should get a better durability test in this friday when I practice for the races.
My vehicle was setup with the following:
AE B4 Buggy Shocks all around
35W / 40W shock oil biased to the front
#2 pistons all around
AE blue springs in the rear, AE green buggy springs in the front
Bottom rear shock position on outer hole
Upper Rear shock position on middle hole
Bottom front shock position on middle hole
Upper front shock position on middle hole
The vehicle can really soar off the jumps and it really has blistering acceleration. I am going to fiddle some more with my ESC settings to get more power to the ground, though I can see others wanting the slipper.
The vehicle still bottomed out off of the medium jumps. So I am planning on going to 40W in the rear and #3 pistons up front as I have been advised by some drivers in the UK that the piston selection is what they use there for the front. I am also thinking of going to silver springs in the rear instead of the blues so it isn't as bouncy and possibly silvers up front depending on how the #3 pistons work out.
The kit tires I have been impressed with as they give similar performance to the holeshots, even with the stock foams. The vehicle had a whole lot of bite to it. Only thing is I have to redue my gluing as it started to come up on the tires. So make sure you got a good bond on there.
One upgrade they are working on that I think will also be a great buy is the metal steering arms as the plastic ones flex alittle more than I like. Once they got that out I see alot of the slop going away.
All in all for the brief time I ran the vehicle ( didn't have spare arms with me ) it was going well. Just need to tweak the setup some and it will be all set.