Yokomo R12
#316
Hi,
I've just ordered one R12 and I would like to put an Associated rear axle and I wonder if the diff thrust cone (brushless) ref 4609 is the same than the Yokomo one ref R12-24B http://www.teamyokomo.com/jpn/partsl...s_r12_24b.html ?
best regards,
Nico'
I've just ordered one R12 and I would like to put an Associated rear axle and I wonder if the diff thrust cone (brushless) ref 4609 is the same than the Yokomo one ref R12-24B http://www.teamyokomo.com/jpn/partsl...s_r12_24b.html ?
best regards,
Nico'
#318
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Comin at ya from a distant galaxy
Posts: 2,930
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Anyone have a complete R12 front end they want to sell?
#319
So how is the parts supply for this car?
Im in the market for a 12th scale but don't want to get caught.
Im in the market for a 12th scale but don't want to get caught.
#320
Driftspeed.com
They have a great stock of parts.
They have a great stock of parts.
#321
Tech Initiate
Hi, I have a R12 with a wide chassis and I have a problem. I have a lot of understeer during acceleration. I have already done many tests with central spring and lateral spring on front but I have not had the expected results. Now i have the link spring soft and rear central spring soft. I drive on an asphalt track with little grip. Do you have tips for me? Thanks
#322
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
Hi, I have a R12 with a wide chassis and I have a problem. I have a lot of understeer during acceleration. I have already done many tests with central spring and lateral spring on front but I have not had the expected results. Now i have the link spring soft and rear central spring soft. I drive on an asphalt track with little grip. Do you have tips for me? Thanks
#323
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (32)
Hi, I have a R12 with a wide chassis and I have a problem. I have a lot of understeer during acceleration. I have already done many tests with central spring and lateral spring on front but I have not had the expected results. Now i have the link spring soft and rear central spring soft. I drive on an asphalt track with little grip. Do you have tips for me? Thanks
#324
Hi, I have a R12 with a wide chassis and I have a problem. I have a lot of understeer during acceleration. I have already done many tests with central spring and lateral spring on front but I have not had the expected results. Now i have the link spring soft and rear central spring soft. I drive on an asphalt track with little grip. Do you have tips for me? Thanks
When the car is ready to go, how much can you lift the front of the chassis without the front tires loosing contact?
#325
Tech Initiate
I can lift the car about 4-5mm before the front tire loose contact. I use medium tire on post and hard tire on front. At front i have the hard central spring. This weekend i try your suggestions. Thanks for the help
#326
Tech Initiate
I post two message, but they dont appear..... I retry...
I can lift the car about 4-5mm before the front tire loose contact. I use medium tire on post and hard tire on front. At front i have the hard central spring. This weekend i try your suggestions. Thanks for the help
I can lift the car about 4-5mm before the front tire loose contact. I use medium tire on post and hard tire on front. At front i have the hard central spring. This weekend i try your suggestions. Thanks for the help
#329
I post two message, but they dont appear..... I retry...
I can lift the car about 4-5mm before the front tire loose contact. I use medium tire on post and hard tire on front. At front i have the hard central spring. This weekend i try your suggestions. Thanks for the help
I can lift the car about 4-5mm before the front tire loose contact. I use medium tire on post and hard tire on front. At front i have the hard central spring. This weekend i try your suggestions. Thanks for the help
Dump the front centerspring and only drive the normal front springs. I even got rid of the center damper as well and my car is driving very well on the track.
If you can raise the chassis about 4-5mm before the front wheels loose contact then there's part of your problem.
You gotta see it like this, when you're accellerating the front of your car will be raised and the back pushed down.
In your case the front can raise about 4-5mm, it wont, but all grip on the front tires will be lost even if it lifts too much and 4mm is way too much.
Make sure the chassis can only raise about 0.5mm before the tires go up (with the 2 screws on the lower arms...). You can tune this a little to your driving style but 0.5mm to 0mm is what I usually drive.
That'll help a lot, after that: harder center spring or softer fronts.
I would drive MH rear and M fronts, but I only drive on carpet.
I'll write down my setup this week and make sure to post it here. Overall I really stiffened up the rear, run 32shore pink rears (comparable to the MH rears) and yokomo M's in the front. Strange thing is, my car started to drive really well when I only sauced the inside of the front tire!! The front is glued without the tendency to be too agressive or flip.
#330
Tech Initiate
Hi, sorry I'm replying so late but I hadnt seen that there were new postings in the thread.
Dump the front centerspring and only drive the normal front springs. I even got rid of the center damper as well and my car is driving very well on the track.
If you can raise the chassis about 4-5mm before the front wheels loose contact then there's part of your problem.
You gotta see it like this, when you're accellerating the front of your car will be raised and the back pushed down.
In your case the front can raise about 4-5mm, it wont, but all grip on the front tires will be lost even if it lifts too much and 4mm is way too much.
Make sure the chassis can only raise about 0.5mm before the tires go up (with the 2 screws on the lower arms...). You can tune this a little to your driving style but 0.5mm to 0mm is what I usually drive.
That'll help a lot, after that: harder center spring or softer fronts.
I would drive MH rear and M fronts, but I only drive on carpet.
I'll write down my setup this week and make sure to post it here. Overall I really stiffened up the rear, run 32shore pink rears (comparable to the MH rears) and yokomo M's in the front. Strange thing is, my car started to drive really well when I only sauced the inside of the front tire!! The front is glued without the tendency to be too agressive or flip.
Dump the front centerspring and only drive the normal front springs. I even got rid of the center damper as well and my car is driving very well on the track.
If you can raise the chassis about 4-5mm before the front wheels loose contact then there's part of your problem.
You gotta see it like this, when you're accellerating the front of your car will be raised and the back pushed down.
In your case the front can raise about 4-5mm, it wont, but all grip on the front tires will be lost even if it lifts too much and 4mm is way too much.
Make sure the chassis can only raise about 0.5mm before the tires go up (with the 2 screws on the lower arms...). You can tune this a little to your driving style but 0.5mm to 0mm is what I usually drive.
That'll help a lot, after that: harder center spring or softer fronts.
I would drive MH rear and M fronts, but I only drive on carpet.
I'll write down my setup this week and make sure to post it here. Overall I really stiffened up the rear, run 32shore pink rears (comparable to the MH rears) and yokomo M's in the front. Strange thing is, my car started to drive really well when I only sauced the inside of the front tire!! The front is glued without the tendency to be too agressive or flip.