ricdav93

I have to be honest and say I completely skipped through most of the posts, so forgive me if I'm repeating what someone else has already said.

I have a lot of experience when it comes to 540 racing, and the key to this class, is out and out efficiency. Some may argue, but I've the faster car on many occasions. For starters, every single bearing in the car needs to be cleared out of the dragging grease or oil it contains. A few hours in Shellite or 'Lighter Fluid' should do the trick. The bearing should then be re-lubricated with 2 (MAX!!!) drops of WD-40 or the like. This does not refer to the diff's, keep on running whatever you have now, if the action is to your liking.

Second part, and I think someone did mention this, but keep your belts as loose as possible without them slipping, if to you they seem a little stiff then, soak them overnight in the once again magic goo, WD-40 or the like. This should free them up no end.

As for, 'keeping it flat', this isn't the key. Back all the way off going into a tight turn, then nail it almost instantly again, but as you do this try to stay as close to the inside of the turn as possible.

I hope this has been of help, please let me know how you do.

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

itchy,

Speedcontrol DOES make a difference. Try running two cars with similar setups, but one with an LRP Quantum Sport and another with the Quantum Comp. Assuming that the batts and motor are similar enough in their numbers, the car with the Quantum Comp will be faster. The Comp will push more power to the motor....

I agree, the Atom is a very good ESC, HOWEVER, it does not have a very high rated current:

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/ES...cont_index.htm

Scroll down to the rated current, the atom specs out to 240, whereas its cyclone Tc brother specs out to 480.

Ratter,

To get some more speed, first work on the car. Make it free and smooth with no binding. Second, try changing your ESC to something more high end. Thirdly, get some decent matched packs, if you need a source, see my sig. Those three steps alone should get you going faster.

ricdav93

Just thought I'd come back and say, although it's pretty obvious, after the belts have been in the WD-40 for any extended period of time, of course wipe them off clean before you re-assemble them.

As for the ESC issue, 540 is 540, they don't draw bigtime amps, of course I'd prefer to run the ESC that came out yesterday, but I don't believe it to have a great degree of impact in 540, as compared to racing in mod with a 9Dbl. I'm of the opinion that an agricultural style ESC can easily cut the mustard in 540 territory.

But, I may yet be proven wrong.

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

If you don't believe me, try it yourself. Strap a mabuchi into your car, and use your racing esc to run a few laps. Then strap in a "Sport" esc, and run a few laps again. You should be able to notice the difference.

Does the 540 Mabuchi/Johsnson draw very many amps? Nope. Will a different ESC make a difference? You Bet. I'm not saying that ratter's atom won't cut the mustard, but he is "Chasing speed" and has asked us to provide him options to make him faster.

So will matched packs (which can be bought for 30 bucks) and a well lubed mabuchi (which has been mentioned). Of course, Driving skill has a lot to do with how well you'll place, but ya still need some decent equipment....

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

do what i do to go faster... cut the track!

honestly, a pro driver told me to just drive clean tight lines and you'll get faster that way. thats the fastest way to shave off time off each lap.

ricdav93

Buddha, I don't disagree with you in the slightest, in fact I agree. A top-line ESC in 540 racing is indeed an advantage of a good 2-3 tenths of a second on a 'perfect' lap, but I would much rather find those 2-3 tenths via a mechanically efficient drive train, added with a polished driving style, before I spent a large wad of dosh on a new ESC.

Time and preparation is much cheaper than dollars, if at the end of a 'finals' race one can say I've spent every dying minute practicing, and during that race I was within 10mm of the apex in every corner, I didn't make one mistake all race long, and my straight line speed was pretty much as good as the winner, yet I still lost the race. If this is the case, then you need a top of the line speedy, if any of those factors didn't happen, then you need to address that issue before you spend money on a new ESC.

GundamWZero

iTrader: (4)

In my opinion, the guy can cut through his apexs and corners without comming off the throttle; to me that a power issue. I am sure that if he uses a Novak Atom (does he run that?) or an LRP v12 with 3300 nickel metal hydrate batteries, and a mini reciever, he'll lose the weight and gain power. However, if he uses Tamyia style connectors and bullet connectors for the motor, he'll lose power. Me, I'd hardwire the ESC , batteries and motor, that way I save weight and have less resistance for more power. I use a Novak TC2, I forgot what reciever, but it too is Novak, 3300 Ni Mh cells and a 27 turn stock motor. Now, minus the 27 turn motor and install the 540, he should have all the power he needs, unless he is using bushings instead of bearings. With a setup like I mentioned above, he won't be able to handle corners like that without redialing his car.

That is my humble opinion. Buddah, you're right.

itchynads

Without knowing how far he is being left behind by other cars its very difficult to make a decision. If he is being left behind by several car lengths down the straight, a top end esc is not going to help.

We run 540 classes down here all the time and I have seen cars with basic level ESCs keep up with high end ESCs so any gains from a high end ESC is going to be small. There are much bigger gains to be had elsewhere.

One of the issues with these silver can motors is that they are often geared insanely to achieve good speed unfortunately this can make them very soft coming out of corners. Carrying as much speed through corners is very important as opposed to stop start racing.

My suggestion would be to:

* focus on driving consistent clean lines
* experiment with different gearing and motors
* ensure drive train is as efficient as possible
* get some good batteries

ratter

A bit more joy last night.
One of the other members has made an engine dyno and we checked my new motor, which i had not used yet, the 1st two motors both drew 1.1 amps and turned 11000 rpm, the new motor drew 1.4 amps and turned 11500 rpm.
I crashed out of the first heat, but the second heat I was reasonbly competitve, but in the last last heat because of the extra punch of the new motor i geared it from 4.53 to 4.39 and it was a rocket compared to most of the other cars, i actually had the 3rd fastest lap, i just have to learn to be a bit more consistant.

GundamWZero

iTrader: (4)

Thats great, rattler, keep this in mind:

When you are in first, all you have to do is just drive, keep your lines consistant, and be calm.......

It is when you are not in first is when you are racing. You are trying to get first. That is where the most mistakes happen. Must remain consistant no matter what place you're in.

I'd still like to know what ESC, batteries, and type of 520 you are using and your wiring setup are. We might can find a way to shave more weight off your car.

itchynads

That's great! Keep with it and I'm sure you'll improve even more. And yes those silver cans can be vary alot in quality. If you do find a good motor look after it well

ratter

the ood motor is a tamiya (johnson) 540 silver can motor, the other motors where just johnson 540's, my speedy is a novak atom and either sanyo 3300 or gp3000 (not matched batteries)
I do have a deans plug between the motor and the speedy so I can easily change motors.

Our class has a weight limit of 1500 grams and mine weighed in at 1558 the other night

I use a jr radio and receiver (the one that uses no crystals)

I'm still thinking about getting a few sets of matched batteries, 1.17+ may be a little overkill, but at least if eveything on the car is good, I know I just have to improve my driving

WC

iTrader: (28)

You don't need that much capacity to race 540; you might find that 1700s or 2000/2400s might be lighter than NiMHs.

WC

iTrader: (28)

sorry, any dyno reading is useful ONLY when there's a load on the motor. If there's no load there's no power generated by motor so its all a moot point.

If you want to make your 'dyno' current readings higher, just don't oil the motor bushings.


Main secret to success in 540 is clean driving. With 540 geared high, it takes so long to reach race speed after a smack you'll be losing 50' to the other guy for every time you hit. Just a few hits and you'll be a lap or 3 behind.

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