Trips

iTrader: (16)

Just curious... Darren ran a set of what?

Thanks,

Trips

Kenneth Tan

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone tried overdriving with the one-way? What effect would it have over underdriving and default?

Bobby Z

iTrader: (4)

Guys - Losi has finally posted David Spashett's setup from the Cleveland Indoor champs and they made quite a few modifications on the car. This includes a middle roll center in the front of the car with 2F front block in the lower holes which resulted in -1 kickup. They combined this with prototype 6 degree castor blocks. It makes you wonder what they were trying to acheive.

I also noticed a strange shock setup. #60 pistons in the front with 50 wt oil and #55 pistons in the rear with 60 wt oil. Why such a difference in piston size?

Take a look and also look at Kinwalds setup from Cleveland as well. It was alot stiffer using yellow congos in the front and blue congos in the rear where as David ran Losi blacks all around.

Bob

Jared Kirkwood

I probably got this right but I just want to make sure before I go spending money on stuff I don't need maybe some might see a mistake.

Shocks - I'm wanting to convert my car over to threaded shock bodies and the shorter shocks on the front. This is what I was planning on ordering to do this. Those are Horizon Part numbers. Is there a full kit that might save me a buck or two?

1 of LOSA5081 .28” Threaded Shock Set w/Nitride Shafts
1 of LOSA5053 .36" Threaded Shock Body Set with Nuts
2 of LOSA5059 .36" Titanium Nitride Shock Shaft

Low Row Center - Also I'm wanting to try the Low Row Center setup. Does losi have a part number for this or am I stuck with using the Trinity Matt Francis Aluminum ones?

1 of TMF1107 Front Suspension Arm mounts for high and low roll center
1 of TMF1110 Rear Suspension Arm Mounts for high and low roll cente

Sway Bar - Does losi have a sway bar kit out yet? I could not find it on their site. If anyone knows of it please post. However I'm thinking about ordering the following to get the correct sized bars I want and then using the kit from the XXX buggy to mount it. I may have to bend the bar slightly but it should still work properly. Anyone got anyother ideas for this?

1 of BRP6200 BRP FRONT OR REAR ANTI ROLL BARS, TC3

Other Suggestions? - Besides getting the graphite kit are there are any other suggestions of what to upgrade? I have all the springs (including Trinity Congo) and shock oils? I'm looking to break back into some touring racing after the Midwest race at CRCRC this January and just getting my car ready.

Out of all that aluminum stuff that has MF's name all over it is there actually anything useful? I don't typically like aluminum as it weights the car down.

Thanks guys!

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Jared,

If you want the shorter shock bodies and shafts your options are:

A-5018 .28” Shock Shaft $3.00
A-5027 .28” Shock Body Hard Anodized $8.00
A-5052 .28” Threaded Shock Body Set w/Nuts $19.95
A-5058 .28” Titanium Nitride Shock Shaft $7.00

To get the threaded shock bodies and nitride shafts go with this. Rather than buying each individually, just go with:

A-5081 .28” Threaded Shock Set w/Nitride Shafts $ 32.00

For the Low Roll Center: you can use either Trinity's or SpeedTech. You can find the SpeedTech parts at www.speedtechrc.com

Go with the Graphite conversion kit.

mike_Webb

Mark.... have you taken a look at Davids setup for Clevland yet? If so can you explain some of the stuff he did to his car and what it was done for or what he was trying to acheive. I don't understand the washer on the spindles or what adding the shim and then using the lower roll center holes did for the car.

Thanks.

Mike Webb

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

It is quite an intersting puzzle. You guess is as good as mine. Will see Ron this weekend - I'll ask him.

Even if we take it apart - it still isnt quite clear how it worked but it does.

By reducing the front kickup, you will get more aggressive steering and increase front braking traction. By increasing the castor he was able to achieve greater turn-in steering.

As for the mid-roll center; I wont even tough that one. But it is clear that with a little creativity this car is extremely tunable.

The washer on the spindle was to limit steering throw. When the car was first released I used the AE caster blocks. To limit the steering throw I tapped the stock spindles witha 2-56 screw to make it an adjustable limiter.

Jared Kirkwood

Why not just use the radio to limit the steering throw?

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

You can do that as well. But we have to remeber that the car goes through a lot of dynamic force, sometimes enough to force servo to do something it cant handle.

SirSpeedy

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure the md roll center was used to get the hingepins between the holes on the diff covers, so that Dave could get the negative kickup.

The idea behind negative kickup is to make the front of the car react like it is more firmly sprung, at least when weight is transfered front to rear.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

IN addition to what MDawson mentioned, I'll also point ou tthat even if you had the world's strongest servo limiting your steering travel, one hit on a board and the servo saver would let the wheel go where it wanted. The only way to prevent excessive travel is with a mechanical limiter.

Trips

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

How has your car been lately? Havent seen you around.

SirSpeedy

iTrader: (2)

My car is not bad. We don't have any type of permanent facilities real close to my house, just temp. p-lot tracks. Not much time for testing.

I've been running blue frt/rr, 50/57 frt/rr, standard shock and link positions for the most part, Low RC, one-way, 0kick, 4deg caster, 0 a/s, pretty basic.

I've only been club racing it in stock, outdoor, asphalt. Our on-road state series in FL is in its off-season, but we have the Snowbirds coming up, so I need to get my foam/carpet stuff together.

jjmudd

iTrader: (5)

HELP PLEASE. The last four outings with the XXXS I have broken four CVD's, two steel Losi bits and two composite TC3 bits that I pieced together at the track. All the breaks are occuring on the right front. The break is located where the axle gets pined to the cup of the CVD. The cup is snapping in half right at the pin holes. There is no other damage to the car and to be honest I am not hitting the walls at 8000 mph, which by the way are plastic 2" X 4"s. Does anyone have any idea as to why this is happening and or offer advice as to how to remedy this problem? Compared to the other cars on the track, mostly Yok.s, TC3s and X-Rays at our club, I am the sole Losi guy so far so I don't have anyone to compare with, the XXXS seem to be a very fragile car. I added the front bumper brace before all these CVD breaks. The bones aren't bent, just the cup cracked in half.

ZER01

jjmudd- Check your steering EPA's on the car, more steering isn't always better. You probally got too much steering dialed in on your radio, which might cause the cvd's to bind at the joint. Don't use tc3 bones because the pins aren't long enough, they'll wear out the inside of your outdrives.

Whats the word on the sway bars from losi? Is Spashett and Kinwald using the Street Weapon sway bars w/modification or what?