Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

Usually you can leave the spur alone and just try different pinions. A tooth or 2 on the pinion is a much bigger change then on the spur.

PoLsKiE

iTrader: (30)

why are you using a 540 can motor....i would buy a 19t checkpoint money motor and use a 88 spur with a 25 pinion thats what i run.....REALLY stout

koinonas

Because minnesh is racing in a 540 class, there's no point going up to a 19turn. I actually think 540 is more than fast enough for beginners (like me). Its cheap, and plenty fast enough so that you don't breakthings to quickly and lets you concentrate on learning how to control car.

Minnesh as to gear ratio's check what ratio' guys at your track are running in 540. There's a couple of guys here (including me) that are running ratios in the low 4's. However you're currently about as low as I think you can reliably go with these motors. You'll find our cheap 540 motor have a lot of torque but no revs, so you find that you do need to gear them a lot lower than ther motors to get speed.

I struggled with speed a lot in the start as well. Only now beginning to match the other guys at the track (for car speed at least). Other things which you should look at are how tight your running the belt (should be fairly loose with 10-15mm play up and down), and type of batteries (I went from unmatched IB3000 stick to unmatched EP4200 stick and there was a huge jump in perfomance!).

One other thing that has made a big difference to speed for me is running both diffs fairly free. By this I mean the wheels (either front or rear) spin reasonably indpendant of each other when I turn then by hand, but not loose enough to slip on the main pulley thing. This has been the last tuning thing that I've done and its made a huge difference to my corner speed (which then means I don't need to regain as much speed on the straights).

This post ended up being a bit long, but hope that it helps. But just remember, car control and the right line can often make up for a slower car. So concentrate on these before being too hung up on the performane. And most importantly, give it some patience and hang in there. We're always slow at the start, but once over the initial hump this is an incredibly fun hobby to be in

minnesh

any tips on this please(diff adjustment)
please
thanks

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

Look, If you grind out the inner of the motor mount, and the outer of the chassis where the endbell of the silver can is, you can fit up to about a 42t 48pitch pinion, get matched batterys and charge them at 6 amps (its a must) and make sure your charger has a screen so you can tell if you pack is stuffed or not (if its not taking the milliamps that is stated on the pack from flat or 5.4volts per pack

also you can get up too 43t 48p pinions they are hard to get but you can if you ask at enough hobby shops.


like the other guy said run the gear mesh a bit loose and the belt as well.


strip your bearings of greese & oil them


make sure your car is not massivly over weight (over 1570 grams with batteries & body on etc)


clean the comm on the motor every run and a drop or 2 of oil on each bush after every few runs.


make sure you have deans or corrally plugs


make sure your esc is programsed correctly , and your controller end points are correct (remember if your change your end points on controller you need to re set your esc setup.


if this dont help nothing will

Blin

Hi guys !

A post just to tell what we all know : the losi XXX-S is a really great car.

I let my losi in the pit since mid-2005. I bought a mamba max 7700 last week and tried it on my old but reliable losi last night. What a great ride ! Despite the "cold" weather (13 C°), the dust and the huge power of the mamba max, the losi handleled pretty well.

The fully sealed transmission is so much secure. Not afraid of the dust and not afraid of the little stones on the parking track.


Well, i'll try to post some pics soon.

Cheers.

DNOS

Minnesh,

The most important thing you can do is change only 1 thing at a time. Go down/up a tooth on your spur....go down/up a tooth on your pinion, loosen/tighten your diffs.....the reason I say this is, if you change more than one thing at a time without running it, you'll never know what the change did. Every peice of info you have gotten on here has been good...just don't do them all at the same time. If you get too far out of shape, return the car to factory settings and start over. I still run this car in brushless stock class and I still have not been beaten because of my car......my driving on the other hand is a different story!

minnesh

thats good to hear and thank u
keep it up

rcstunt101

iTrader: (16)

I need some help, heres the video explaining what is happening.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3fFnY5WSao

IS this excessive play normal or have the bearings spun in the housing and damaged the chassis?

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

my xxx-s does the same thing, i just assumed it was normal and the diffs were held in by the belt.

unless mine is worn too

as i did not relized it untill ages after i got the car.

so any one elses opinion would be good to hear.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Can someone tell me AE TC4 shocks work on Losi XXXS-G+? Not a big fan of its original shocks and want to replace them with something better.....I am more concerning the length of the TC4 will fit the Losi or not...thanks

Sigearhead

iTrader: (74)

There should be just a little bit of play but not that much, check to see if your bearings are shot or if it really is wear on the chassis. The only way to find out is to take the rear diff cover off and take out the diff and check the bearings and the chassis. I would say your bearings are shot.

DNOS

Does it still do that when the car is put back together with just the diff cover taken off. From that angle of the video, it's hard to tell, but it looks like you have the car pretty much disassembled in the rear. It's gonna be loose when you don't have any of the parts in there to hold things together. If should not do that when the rear diff cover and rear bumper are the only things taken off. If it does, buy a new set of bearings and check your seating in the chassis for wear. Replace if necessary.

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

even with the dif cover on and fully together , both the front & back do this,
and there doesnt seem to be any wear marks in the chassis or diff cover,

it must be normal.


the belt mainly holds it in place.

Sigearhead

iTrader: (74)

no, it's not normal...

have you checked your bearings?