Losi XXX-S
#4816
Cain,
You can flip the rings over and use the other side. You'll get more life from them that way. Most the time the only thing that really needs replacing is the thrust bearing as that is the part that wears the fastests and causes that gritty feeling. But if your car is serveral months old and you've been running alot, I would do a complete diff rebuld.
I also find if you simply just take the diff apart every weekend or every other weekend of racing (depending on how much practice I've done) to clean and relube everything then the life of diff is extended at least 5x.
You can flip the rings over and use the other side. You'll get more life from them that way. Most the time the only thing that really needs replacing is the thrust bearing as that is the part that wears the fastests and causes that gritty feeling. But if your car is serveral months old and you've been running alot, I would do a complete diff rebuld.
I also find if you simply just take the diff apart every weekend or every other weekend of racing (depending on how much practice I've done) to clean and relube everything then the life of diff is extended at least 5x.
#4817
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally posted by Jared Kirkwood
Cain,
You can flip the rings over and use the other side. You'll get more life from them that way. Most the time the only thing that really needs replacing is the thrust bearing as that is the part that wears the fastests and causes that gritty feeling. But if your car is serveral months old and you've been running alot, I would do a complete diff rebuld.
I also find if you simply just take the diff apart every weekend or every other weekend of racing (depending on how much practice I've done) to clean and relube everything then the life of diff is extended at least 5x.
Cain,
You can flip the rings over and use the other side. You'll get more life from them that way. Most the time the only thing that really needs replacing is the thrust bearing as that is the part that wears the fastests and causes that gritty feeling. But if your car is serveral months old and you've been running alot, I would do a complete diff rebuld.
I also find if you simply just take the diff apart every weekend or every other weekend of racing (depending on how much practice I've done) to clean and relube everything then the life of diff is extended at least 5x.
#4819
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally posted by Matt Howard
Stlnlst- and you usually borrow the diff lube and black grease so it really doesn't cost you a thing LOL
Stlnlst- and you usually borrow the diff lube and black grease so it really doesn't cost you a thing LOL
#4820
Hey guys what gearings are you running in the losi, in stock class,
Im running a Peak Spitfire motor,
also what is the spur gear that comes with the xxxs GP kit.
Thanks Ryan
Im running a Peak Spitfire motor,
also what is the spur gear that comes with the xxxs GP kit.
Thanks Ryan
#4822
Hey just another question
Do you get a set of droop gauges when you but the xxx's GP kit?
Ryan
Do you get a set of droop gauges when you but the xxx's GP kit?
Ryan
#4824
Is one all you need for setting up droop?
I never had to set up droop.
so have no idea really
thanks Ryan
I never had to set up droop.
so have no idea really
thanks Ryan
#4825
Losi Convert?
The GP promises to make a Losiphile out of me.... though I have to wait and see on Jan 4th, the first race of the year...
#4826
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally posted by Ryan C
Is one all you need for setting up droop?
I never had to set up droop.
so have no idea really
thanks Ryan
Is one all you need for setting up droop?
I never had to set up droop.
so have no idea really
thanks Ryan
#4827
Originally posted by Ryan C
Is one all you need for setting up droop?
I never had to set up droop.
so have no idea really
thanks Ryan
Is one all you need for setting up droop?
I never had to set up droop.
so have no idea really
thanks Ryan
#4828
yeah i checked out that web site it helps heaps and can understand it fully.
Reason im asking these questions is cos were still waiting for our losi xxx's GP cars to come into the country apparently around the 18 of jan well be getting them so yeah were a bit slow over here in NZ but will get there.
Ryan
Reason im asking these questions is cos were still waiting for our losi xxx's GP cars to come into the country apparently around the 18 of jan well be getting them so yeah were a bit slow over here in NZ but will get there.
Ryan
#4829
Tech Rookie
Originally posted by JitsuGuy
Do the guys that ran at the big Tulsa race have a setup for me? I race there and I'm a newbie and trying to find the right setup. I have the original XXX-S but it's all graphite now.
I'd like to know droop, springs, shock oil, tires, inserts, kick-up, castor, ride height, well, pretty much everything... I need a good starting point... There's a guy here that races the XXX-S and it's dialed, but I don't talk to him much as I hate to bother him.
Thanks so much!
Jits
Do the guys that ran at the big Tulsa race have a setup for me? I race there and I'm a newbie and trying to find the right setup. I have the original XXX-S but it's all graphite now.
I'd like to know droop, springs, shock oil, tires, inserts, kick-up, castor, ride height, well, pretty much everything... I need a good starting point... There's a guy here that races the XXX-S and it's dialed, but I don't talk to him much as I hate to bother him.
Thanks so much!
Jits
Keep in mind, this is for the "normal" XXX-S, not the GP+.
Front Suspension:
Toe: 0 degrees
Ride Height: 5.5mm
Camber: 1 degree negative
Kickup: Stock
Caster: Stock
Sway Bar: No
Droop Height: 4mm
Pivot Support: 2F
Arm Spacing: Middle
Front Drive: Diff
Standard Pulleys: (42 front and rear)
Upper Shock Tower Position: #2
Lower Shock Tower Position: #3
No washers under the bellcrank or spindle ball studs.
Shocks: 60 weight oil (though I'm switching to 40 - shocks are a bit lazy)
Red Standard Piston
Orange springs
No limiters inside or outside
Notes: Run front diff a little tighter than rear
Rear Suspension:
Toe: Stock
Ride Height: 5.5mm
Camber: 1 degree negative
Sway bar? No.
Droop Height: 5mm
Pivot Support: 0R
Arm Spacing: Middle
Hub Carrier: "A" hole (inside)
Upper Shock Tower Position: 2
Lower Shock Tower Position: 2
Use the outter hole on the suspension arm.
Shocks and springs are the same as the front.
That's the setup he suggested for me at the Celebration Station races, and it's working well at Randy's track. I've added a rear sway bar and will be switching to thinner shock oil when I add threaded shocks this week. Other than that, I'm running the car as listed above.
Also, I'm running the belt pretty loose. Actually, the belt is as loose as it can get without skipping under hard acceleration from a dead stop.
Hope this helps. See ya at the track this weekend. I'm going to practice at Randy's Thursday night to see what, if any, benefits are gained by moving ball studs and shocks around. I don't know if any more can be milked out of the car, but I'm definately going to try. =)
Rob
#4830
Originally posted by STLNLST
one will do just fine. Is there someone at your local track that could show you how to properly set the droop? It may be sort of difficult to understand over the net rather than someone actually showing you.
one will do just fine. Is there someone at your local track that could show you how to properly set the droop? It may be sort of difficult to understand over the net rather than someone actually showing you.
Still waiting...although I got so sunburnt at a recent Import drag race meet I don't want to spend another day in the sun racing RC