Jared Kirkwood

Please open this url in a new browser window for reference:
http://www.teamlosi.com/xxxs_manual/BAG-F-3.jpg

On the front make sure you part 120 installed on the front and part 123 installed on the rear. I don't know what spindle carriers come with the G+ but if they are 0 degree and you have the front arm moved forward they will probably rub. You can fix that by placing a #4 washer on the lower shock mount screw between the shocks bushing (part 110) and the front suspension arm.

If your trying to run anti-dive with 2 or 4 deg spindle carriers in the car you might have to put part 123 on the front shocks tower to get the clearence you need.


I have honestly never had this problem. I have been building losi Diffs since they realeased the JRX2. Please just take diff totally part and try to reassemble it. Make sure the diff nut is proberly seated into the hex area of the diff nut carrier. When you rebuild it make all the bearings and diff rings are probably seated before trying to bolt it all together. Also make sure the diff nut isn't stripped. If the nut is stripped then it can feel like bolt isn't long enough.

Reference Figure 1: http://www.teamlosi.com/xxxs_manual/BAG-A-1.jpg


The pin that attaches the CVD axle and the CVD univeral sometimes is a bit to long and catches on the screw or ball studd that is holding the spindle to the spindle carrier. Some sand paper and about 1 min worth of sanding is all you need to fix that or back off the screw and/or ball studd 1/16 turn from full tight and that will fix it too.

Jared Kirkwood

Thanks ChadK, I didn't see your post before I posted. That explains why we can't get any 4 deg hubs in stock for our guys here locally. LOL.

Nightbreed, please do as Chad described also.

If you have any more questions please feel free to ask. That's why this board is so great. With all the experience we all have combined there is a fix to about anything. However we're still pondering why our wives don't like us racing. LOL, that was a joke.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

for the belt leaning issue, you should recheck the belt tensioner and make sure you pressed the bearing all the way down. I know you may think you did (I did too), but it should snap in hard. I was having the same issue that the belt seemed to want to go to one side of the spur assembly.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

futureal, thanks for the info. I think I am alittle confused on what exactly you mean but I am reading this in a rush

so basically:

if I want the rear to not stay as planted, i should shorten the link and move the link higher up than the stock setting on the middle row? (using PRP shock towers)

Anyone with experience with the PRPs? What advantages do you gain running really stiff springs on carpet? Does your vehicle react quicker?

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Senna, I really don't have any ideas on that one. If I would have to guess I would say the yok thin inserts but I could be wrong.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Nightbreed.....I would look at what everyone has sugested to you.....check your lock nut in your diff it might be bad....I have had some come with out any threads on them so you might have one like that....plus they are also alum. and its a very soft alum so they can strip easy. If you need more help we are all here and will help anyway we can.

I_GhostTown_I

If all else fails dood, start wingin' the car into the corners, have faith in the Losi Gods, and let the car do its job. Drive that thing like you stole it and it'll treat you with respect.

futureal

If you want to loosen up the rear end using the camber link, I would shorten the link. Moving it up or down seems to affect the car's handling from front-to-rear or rear-to-front for me, rather than one end independently. It has to do with the roll axis of the car, which I understand in theory -- and when I have a car in front of me -- but I'd probably screw it all up if I tried to explain it. haha

Also, it's worth noting that I would make those adjustments incrementally. In other words, don't both shorten the link and move it up at once, try one or the other first to get a feel for what it is doing to the car. That is the best (and really only) way to learn how to set up a car properly.

For springs, I see no need to run stiff springs unless you are running foams, in which case the stiffer, the better. Reason being, softer springs add traction at that end of the car (since the suspension is absorbing the forces that would normally cause the car to break traction, or slide), and foam tires have more traction than you'll likely need.

On rubber, I run the car as soft as I can get away with. One of the benefits of this is that the car is less likely to roll over when one side gets picked up off the ground. Either in car-to-car contact, rolling over a corner dot, etc. Since the suspension soaks up some of the lifting motion, it gives the driver an extra split-second to make a correction and get the wheels back on the ground. Once again, this matters to me since I'm an aggressive driver, normally cutting a very tight line and making inside passes and so on.

But to back up a sec, the general idea is that a stiffer spring will give you less traction, but faster side-to-side recovery, and vice versa. So in many cases you want to have a stiffer spring in the front of the car, for faster steering, and a softer spring in the rear, to balance out the steering by offering a bit more traction.

Hope some of that helps, or at least makes limited sense.

Nightbreed

I figured I was going to have to shim something. Yes, your right, I have the front A-arms forward and I am using the 0-degree c-spindle. I did not strip the diff nuts, so they must be bad. I wonder if losi will replace my nuts. Does anyone know if Losi has any plans to redesign the one-way or make a new cvd bone just for the one-way? In the old days, I spend much time trying to get parts to fit and I don't like doing it anymore. Today there is no reason for it. Its called competition.

Nightbreed

I am using the right parts and the front shocks still won't fit. Went back to losi ball cups. I am using 4degree front spindles and 0-kickup and it don't come close to fitting. I went to the 3rd hole in from the outside and it still won't fit. I moved the arms back and put the spacers in the front blocks and it still won't fit. Back to no room between the cvd and the oneway button head screw. What the $%#$%! Yes, I'm using the right hinge pin blocks. I have been putting models together for years and I have never had problems like this. Any last help? What else could it be?

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

Alright, I know myself, and at least two other guys I know have done the same thing.

I did it myself, in a hurry, hacking about 5 minutes before my heat, grabbed the wrong part.

Crap Happens..

How much more space do you need? Where does the CVD bottom out against the screw? How much ride do you have when it finally bottoms out?

-Troy

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Sounds to me like your bearings in the steering knuckles might not be pressed in all of the way if the cvd is right up against the oneway screw. You will have to look at the smallest things even if they sound stupid. I bet it's something little and you're going to slap yourself when you find out what it is. Hang in there though.

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

Nightbreed -

Could you please post a picture.

speedmachine

Thanks Cain,

I did snap the bearing all the way into the pulley tensioner. I still get the belt leaning to one side, the side towards the metal arm and it's wearing the belt.

Help! It's driving me crazy... & frustrated!

ZER01

speedmachine, first you need a new belt, that belt that was tangled has been crimped to hell and back-no good! Secong, you need to make sure your pulley in on the right way meaning the larger lip of that white pulley needs to be on the side closest to the pulley arm or passenger side of the car. I had a friend who installed that piece on backwards and the same thing happened to him.