senna

The XXX-S comes out with 2deg toe-in at the rear ... how can I reduce it to 1deg?

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Senna, you could just take the 1 degree blocks and put them on backwards, right on the left and left on the right.

If any of your are still looking for the yellow belts and Alfa bodies they are back in stock at KT Hobbies.

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

Stock toe is 4* total. ( 2* per side )

As Kraig said, Just put the blocks on backwards to remove toe, or put them on correctly to add toe.

Nightbreed

I am disappointed about the kit quality and there are way too many problems.

I started putting together my graphite-plus xxx-s and the front c-spindles are too big. There is not enough clearence from the front c-spindle to the shock spring. No use even using the very out side hole on the shock tower and I may have to go to the 3 inside hole just to get it to fit. Also my oneway won't fit, not enough room between the cvd and the inside button bolt. The diff bolt on one of the diffs won't even go in far enough to tighen the diff. The other only goes in enough for it to work. I talked to one of the guys at Losi in the tech department and he said just to reassemble it. and to just shave down the cvd to make it fit. You have to be kidding. Very disappointed! Can anyone help. If I have to start grinding on stuff, bye. bye Losi. A.E. I'm back. Jeesh... I so p.o I hoped to start racing this next week. I can see one problem or so, but this many?

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Night....Ok whats going on with your car I know that you are mad and you might not have said exactly whats going on but can you more clearly say what the problem is?

JeffC

iTrader: (5)

I just finished building my new xxxs graphite a couple days ago, and everything went together great. Seems kinda weird that someone else would have so many problems with it.

Night, did you maybe accidently swap the left side and right side parts or something? I could see how that kinda stuff would cause lots of werid problems.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Wow I can't imagine that the XXXS Graphite has that many things wrong in a new kit. After 17 years of racing and building over 100 kits I never had one with that many problems in the same kit. Sometimes I need to file or trim some parts but my XXX-S was a great kit to put together. I just tapped the stuff with the screw Losi had in the kit and it was a breeze for a high end kit. Parts were nice and fit tight but not too tight and slop is very minimal.

I would get some help from a fellow racer as now you might be mad enough and have missed something. Sometimes another person might be abel to figure out something you overlooked.

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

I had the same problem, when I made an oops. I grabbed the rear hunge pin block, instead of the front ( running 2R instead of 2F if i remember right. Everything works, other than the CVD's binding, and locking against the oneway outdrive screw.

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

Yea that's NOT how my graphite went together,it was no problem,everything went the way it should.should we thank you for getting the lemon and saving the rest of us from rc hell.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I had issues when I got my XXX-S. the CVD had flashing in it that had to be ground out. Real Pain. Also, the front C-hubs were really brittal.

I got some parts on the way, congo springs, etc. I will have to wait till my hobby shop stocks the new rear arms and carriers before getting some. I am going to have to switch to plastic rear hubs for now

Anyone know whats the finally word on lengthing or shortening the rear camber link, as well as lowering and raising it? (ie- what this will do to handling on the car).

futureal

All of those changes affect what's called the "roll moment" of the car (or of that end of the car, in this case).

The length of the upper suspension link affects the chassis roll when the car is leaning in one direction or another. A longer suspension link (meaning closer to the "inside" of the tower) allows the chassis to roll more, whereas a shorter link decreases the roll moment. As a general principle, if you mount the upper link on the outside of the tower, the roll moment of the chassis will be very small when the car is leaning; that is to say, the chassis will not lean much further than the suspension is compressed. Conversely, mounting it on the inside allows the chassis to roll more, which results in a greater weight transfer, and a more aggressive action at that end of the car.

Moving the link up or down, while keeping it the same length, will affect the general roll center of that end of the car. Moving the link up will decrease the roll center; moving it down will increase the roll center. I'm not sure how accurate it is, but my experience has been that higher roll center at a given end will give you a more aggressive action at the beginning of a turn, whereas a lower roll center will be more aggressive towards the middle/end of a turn. Since a higher roll center gives you more chassis roll, you can think of it in terms of the previous paragraph, where the more roll you get, the more initial weight transfer you get, which will give you more "action" in the turn. However, with the higher roll center, it will take longer for the chassis to "recover" as you exit the turn.

So to summarize:

Link short = less aggressive into a turn
Link long = more aggressive into a turn
Link up = less aggressive in, more aggressive out
Link down = more aggressive in, less aggressive out

On my XXX-S, I have pretty much always run the longest links possible in the rear, and I have yet to experiment with the G+ towers. Since I have an aggressive driving style, running shorter rear links usually left the rear of the car washing out behind the front, as if the chassis on that end could not keep up with the front.

Of course, if anybody thinks I'm wrong, feel free to argue. My "knowledge" is based entirely on my experiences with my car and various conversations I've had at the track with the guys I race with.

senna

Thanks Kraig for the info ... What is the lightest moulded insert there is on the market ?

speedmachine

Help Needed!

The belt on my XXXS always get tangled when I brake the car. Tangled as in, the belt ran out of the belt tensioner and jam. I cant seem to figure what is causing the the belt to get spin out of the tensioner. I tried changing to a new belt tensioner, but still the problem exist.

I noticed also my belt seems to be leaning more to towards the outside of the spur gear when moving(towards the arm of the belt tensioner). Could this be the cause?

Appreciate anyone could help and offer any adivce. Thanks!

Nightbreed

I changed the the spindle carries around and now I have more clearance for my cvds. I am not sure if that is an issue now. But, the frontend spindle carriers do not have any clearance from the front shock springs. The spindle carrier won't sit flat on the A-arm. The directions call for the second hole from the inside. Ok, that would fix the clearances. But why even make two more holes to adjust the shock lean if you can't use them? Losi team guy setup calls for the third hole out. Please don't tell me I have to grind on the spindle carriers to make the shock springs clear? Also on both of my diffs, the diff screw won't thread very far into the diff nut. I even tried just screwing the bolt into the nut and it won't go. What is the deal? Just bad diff nuts? Please help.

ChadK

Night-The G+ comes with 4deg front caster blocks, are you sure that you have them on the correct side? The one marked with the L should be on the drivers side of the car. If that is correct you should have plenty of spring to c-hub clearence for all the shock mounting locations. On the diff thing have you built Losi diffs before? I have built 100's and have not encountered the ploblems you are talking about, maybe have someone that is very familiar to Losi's at your local track look at it.

Chad