shrekair

iTrader: (9)

roll center is the point of which the car rolls. now, if u raise the inner hinge pins, your raising roll center. the car is then rolling on a high axis. however, the losi xxx-s has less roll w/ high roll center due the the suspension design. so u can call it what you want, but roll center is only telling you the height of the hingpin, not the amount the car will roll.

Fire

i think i gonna stay away from messing with roll center

OBY

what i meant was...is the rear bar inaccurate?? ie it sets slightly different toe in each side?

i've decided that the money i was gonna spend on an xray evo2 is going on the following...

full graphite kit (losi)

titanium front and rear driveshafts (TIR)

full titanium screw kit (TIR)

titanium bottom chassis plate (custom made in aerospace)

carbon fibre front shock tower to match my rear one (fastrax)

i'll keep my fastrax front and rear aluminium hubs and also steering bellcranks, along with my hpi threaded shocks, blue heatsink and titanium turnbuckles (lunsford)

if any of you guys are breaking front bodyposts (i've been through about three), try this.

get an old, or indeed new hpi front bodypost. cut off the hexagonal part at the bottom, test fit it into the original hole in the bumper, it may need some widening. then refit with a bit of thin super glue, leave to set.

you will also need to ream for front body holes a touch to accept the new posts, this looks smart in the car and also NEVER breaks!

i'm also buying a new pack of HVs as my SMH's are totally knackered.

anything else i should get while i'm on this daft spening spree?

LouisB

I was also thinking of getting the graphite conversion, but with the amount of rain we get in this part of the world (probably more for you) I don't really want to have holes in the bottom of my chassis, but I have got a lot of blue tack lying around so it shouldn't really matter

You could get the Ti hingepins while you're getting stuff fron titanium racing, also try the Fastrax underbody, I got mine today (after 3 months waiting for CML to get it in)
The titanium screw kit would be a good idea, even if it is expensive

I don't know about the drive shafts, they may be OK with composite outdrives but I've seen a XX-4 with metal outdrives that's eaten half way through the pin on the ti shaft I don't know if they're really worth it

My body posts have been fine since i got my dynamite bumper and brace

I also saw something about the rear bar giving more toe-in on one side. Maybe the graphite kit would have the correctly moulded pieces?

OBY

could be right about the graphite rear bar..

the screw kit is only about £40 or under, the lunsford one is meant to be really dear.

i know a guy with a pro3 and Ti driveshafts, no probs so far!!

i've had the fastrax inner body for a good few months now

my stock hinge pins and fine so far...but in the future who knows!

i forgot about the graphite with extra holes, just do what i do with the stock chassis holes...duck tape!!! just replace it each run, my cars bone dry in the soaking wet (got 4th in a national in the rain )

LouisB

I might get the graphite kit next time I order something from stormer. I thinks it's about $90, £60 rather than £120 from apex, $182!!!!
I currently have 2400s for heats and a pack of 3000H for the final and desperately need new batts, what should I get?

PS, who were the 3 drivers above you in the national?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

What do you guys think of the trinity red aluminum heat sink for the XXXS? Its the one that doesn't mount on top of the engine. Is it any good?

teamAE

I used a big one from the tc3 and I think it mad the motor hotter. Don't know about the trinity one.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

anyone know about this heatsink? I think it will work better than the clip on models as it won't cover up the air vents. Also, anyone using the aluminum Hex hubs?

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Save your money on the hex hubs. They're a joke. Trinity tried to make theirs like the Yokomo old style hex hubs with the o-ring but the o-ring doesn't do anything. The pin doesn't slide through the hex so what is the o-ring for??? I can still pull the hex off of the car. It's red and that about it. I'm going to get the Yokomo clamp style hex's (sp) that's made for the TC3. Just my $0.02

Sydewynder

It transfers some heat as I can feel it but why is it so short? Doesn't touch most of the can especially where the heats coming from near the end bell.

Also, it's a 2 piece where you screw the heatsink part to a disc that's sandwiched between the motor and the stock motor mount. This thickness pushes out the motor so you might have to shave the chassis a little to clear the solder tabs on the motor.

If you get it and are installing it, make sure you put pressure on the heatsink down onto the can and not leave an air gap.



STLNLST:

OMG that is sad about the aluminum hexes. @ Trinity

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

I ran the xx-4 / street weapon heatsink. The tabs came close, but never really got in the way.

I took it off... I haven't run it since Jan.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

If you are going to use a heat sink it should have as much of a contact area that is possible. What I mean is that the entire heatsink should be touching the motor. Then if you have that you should use heat sink paste to help transfer the heat from the motor to the heatsink. Just my $0.02.

LouisB

Kraig, can u ship to the UK? and can u give me a rough idea of the cost

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

then again, just dont run a heat sink, and save $$$, weight, as well as better airflow. u really dont need a heat sink if you keep everything clean and open.