futureal

I will also verify and agree with mr. losi's statement. He and I race at the same track, we've both been running Losi cars in mod & stock since right after the car was released, and broken parts have been very rare.

In ALL my time with the car, I have broken ONE arm and ONE body post, and that's it. (I managed to strip a spur gear once, but that was due to my own idiocy...)

We race on pretty unforgiving tracks too. Our indoor track is very tight and technical, with those same hard-as-rock PVC pipes. Our outdoor track is plywood boards without much flex either. As far as I am concerned, the car has been bulletproof. I have gone an awfully long time without breaking anything on the Losi car.

I am not trying to discount peoples' experiences with the car, I'm just trying to encourage people to find a solution other than saying "it's Losi's fault."

Have you guys tried running composite carriers versus graphite carriers? I saw proudwinner talking about the bumper situation, that could be a big part of it. I have been running the stock bumper on my car this entire time -- in fact I still have the same little dinky gray bumper that came with my kit, and it works fine. I did add the clear plastic Losi brace later on, mainly just so I wouldn't feel the car flex every time I picked it up by the bumper.

You also have to make sure that no other suspension parts are binding on the car. The idea is to redistribute the force of an impact across many pieces, rather than focus it in a particular area. As much as people want to "eliminate slop" there is something to be said for having a free moving suspension with a little give here and there. Perhaps running a shock tower or front arm with a little more flex in it could help lessen the blow that the carrier is receiving.

Anyway, I'm just saying that I don't think it's a manufacturing defect at all.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I agree with you to a point. Parts can take an impact, this one didn't and I wasn't the only one who noticed that, all the XXX-S guys who were there (about 5 of them) were shocked when it broke since they saw how slow I was driving.

Anyway, any ideas how to get rid of traction roll?

Cain

iTrader: (294)

As far as losi's manufacturing of parts, all I know is that the new pieces I put on took a much harder hit than the old parts, so maybe they changed something in the mold or whatever. I am not sure how old my kit was as I picked it up new from a local hobby distributor who got it from some other distributor out of state.

I believe losi stands by there stuff, trust me I went through the how XX4 bulkhead fiasco when they first came out and they replaced my broken bulkhead with 2 new ones for my trouble. they are a good company, so no problems with them!

psycho

PorscheSuperCup

I bought my XXX-S from a buddy of mine that had a similar opinion to yours about the car. On his first race, he tagged a board "not very hard." He broke the lower right a-arm, the caster block, knuckle and diff outdrive. At that time, Losi hadn't released the outdrive separately and the rest of the parts were pretty scarce too. I waited for a month for the parts to come in before I could run the car. During that time, there was a similar conversation going on this board. One side said the parts break too easily. The other side said "stay off the boards and parts don't break." I thought the car was cool and all the fast guys in my area had jumped on the XXX-S bandwagon, so I figured there must be some reason why.

OK, you're ready for me to get to the point... I have broken stuff on my car. I always seem to break the rear knuckles. Most of the time, it's from doing dumb stuff, but sometimes I wonder what the hell happened. How could that little hit possibly break anything? I made two changes to the car and they have made a huge difference in my breaking of parts and my laptimes. I rarely break parts any more and I have consistantly made it to the a-main since making these changes. The two changes are that I added a FET servo and I changed to the front one-way. Before everyone starts groaning about the one-way vs. diff thing again, here's why I am not breaking parts any more. First off, the front one-way gives me tons of steering in the turns. With a diff, when you over cook the turn, you start to push and wham! you're into the boards. With the one-way, you don't push as much beause there is no diff action to unload. IMO, this car was made to run with a one-way. The FET servo has made an equally major change in the handling of the car. I went from a midrange servo to a KO FET servo, so it took me a race or two to get used to it. What the FET servo does is make the car respond immediately. When you use a slower servo, it extends the time between the "oh crap, I'm in trouble" signal in your brain and the car turning on the track. Add a FET servo and it reduces that delay and you get out of trouble. Sometimes I'll squirt through a pile up and wonder how the hell I made it out of there without a crash. I'll be the first to admit that I'm no Matt Francis and those two things made a huge difference for me. You'll plunk down some money for those, but I bet you'll be a happy XXX-S driver, like me, if you do. Whew! I need a nap after that! Notice? No flames

Sydewynder

Hmmm I practice 2-3 times every week.

The other Losi driver also breaks the exact same part, hmmm?

I also never said the car was poorly designed. I said the C-hub is a weak spot.

Let me ask everyone something. Can you install the stock 0 degree C-hubs wrong/backwards? I think not.

futureal

For the record, this was so funny that I had to add a new smile icon to the board just to cover it!

Sydewynder

I've run both composite and graphite. Both break the same.

Sydewynder

As for the Tamiya comment yeah someone had one...........AT LEAST HE WAS STILL RUNNING.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Wow, i really got something restarted here

fellas, lets just drop it ok? I am mainly trying to find out info as far as hooking my car up better. I know every car has week spots, just part of the nature of the vehicle. For the XXX-S, it may well be the hubs, but the nice thing is people find ways to fix any perceived problem, like the nerf wings I see drivers using. So everyone just COOL OUT!!!!

So, anyone have advice on the traction roll issue I brought up?

ChadK

Wow there is a lot of passion on this breakage issue. Some people are having major breakage while others are not, and ther seems to be no magic fix. I personally don't have problems with the car breaking but there are some people I race with that break the car a lot. This seems to be the way things go lets move on.

Recently I have been running mt car with a mid roll center up front with low RC in the back and have had great success with it. By mid RC I mean I am using the 2 deg kick-up front hinge pin mount with the low RC mounts shimmed up so the hingr pin is level or zero deg. Try this you may find that it works for you.

Chad

futureal

And guys, you have to realize that nobody on here means to rip on anybody else's driving abilities. This hobby combines SO many things: driving skill, mechanical skill, strategy, understanding of physics, ability to handle pressure and so on. No two people are going to be on the same footing in all of these areas unless you are talking to the best of the best guys out there, and on here we generally realize that we all have a lot to improve upon -- otherwise we wouldn't be asking each other so many questions.

Sure, it's frustrating when you break stuff. Nobody's telling anybody else that it is their fault entirely when they break stuff. I have seen absolutely awesome drivers lightly tap a wall and break an arm, and I've seen absolutely terrible drivers smash their cars all over the track and be fine. There is a little bit of luck involved in this hobby, just like in everything else.

So try not to get on each other about the driving thing. When people say "you just need to practice" they are not insulting you, they are just stating a possible solution to the parts problem. We ALL could be better drivers, even the guys at the top.

Sydewynder

Yeah I do use a oneway.

Wait til you break the C-hub and lose the oneway outdrive, spring and outer bearing or jam the bone into the drive cup and tear up the undersized oneway bearing.

As for the car in general, it a great driving car too bad I have a hard time keeping it running.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks for the info. Right now I believe I am running zero degrees all around. Should I change this? Will running greater degrees in the front help get rid of the traction roll?

futureal

I find it amusing that people are getting on Tamiya on here, since they just won the World Championship. There's nothing at all wrong with Tamiya's cars, they just aren't as mainstraim for those of us here in the USA as some of the other brands.

psycho

Sydewynder

If you think you're breaking parts on your XXX-S, wait until you get the F201 on the track! I blew out the entire left front corner of mine (including the bulkhead) in my first race.

Cain

Try running harder tire/insert combinations and/or reducing your droop. Also, you may need to add some dampening. Some combination of those two things should help. You are traction rolling because you have too much grip or the car is too rolly. It would help if you post your setup.