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School me on nitro motor maintenance for racing.

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School me on nitro motor maintenance for racing.

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Old 04-21-2010, 01:58 AM
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hey
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Old 04-21-2010, 05:53 AM
  #17  
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I run dollar bearing for everything, I spend about 60 a year in all bearings. I run Dyn Max life 4 shoe clutch shoes, one set last me all summer. i do change the springs once in awhile. As far as my engine go, I don't do nothing, especially if its running good, make sure I have good clean filters, make sure my EPAs are set good and make sure its a DBC EVERYTIME.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bacchus
i'll try the dynamite clutch when its time. Oh yeah i'll need a 60 dollar pipe to go with that 200 dollar motor. When does it stop?
Oh, if you're worried about how much you're gonna spend, you're in the wrong hobby. If you're racing, don't forget about those $60 a set buggy, or $80 a set truggy wheels / tires that you'll go through in a few race weekends, with practice. There's also air filters, glow plugs, fuel, etc....

Enjoy it, set a budget for yourself, and try to stick to it as best you can. Worrying about how much money you're burning every time you run your car will suck all the enjoyment out of it!
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:21 AM
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what springs are ya'll running on the losi 8ight t 2.0 with dynamite max life clutch? I run on a red clay hard pack DUSTY track. Usually use soft ibeams.
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by bacchus
what springs are ya'll running on the losi 8ight t 2.0 with dynamite max life clutch? I run on a red clay hard pack DUSTY track. Usually use soft ibeams.
black and green on a tacky suface -------- green and gold on a loose surface
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:48 AM
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Keep your air filter clean and check over your clutch regularly and your should be in good shape. if you question a bearing change it, dont want a $1 part taking you out of a race.
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Old 04-21-2010, 01:29 PM
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Ok I understand clutch and clutch bearing maintenance but what about these? How often are these replaced?

Engine Bearings
crank
piston/sleeve
connecting rod
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Old 04-21-2010, 01:34 PM
  #23  
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VERY IMPORTANT



make sure your piston is DB after every run.
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Old 04-21-2010, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bacchus
Ok I understand clutch and clutch bearing maintenance but what about these? How often are these replaced?

Engine Bearings
crank
piston/sleeve
connecting rod
You replace them when you need to, if it makes financial sense. When that is depends on you and how you run your engine. I have a 12 gallon Werks B3 that I bought used on all original parts. It's a backup engine now. If anything wears out in it I'll just replace the whole engine with a new one as it would cheaper than repair.
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Old 04-21-2010, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bacchus
Engine Bearings
crank
piston/sleeve
connecting rod
it's time to replace p/s when the engine won't hold a tune.
To check on the crank and the connecting rod you have to take apart your engine and check for slop in the connections - some
people do this regularly some don't. The bearings are only a concer if they are leaking excessively. But tu be honest, most people consider the 454 to be a disposable engine.
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Old 04-21-2010, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Stubbs
Oh, if you're worried about how much you're gonna spend, you're in the wrong hobby. If you're racing, don't forget about those $60 a set buggy, or $80 a set truggy wheels / tires that you'll go through in a few race weekends, with practice. There's also air filters, glow plugs, fuel, etc....

Enjoy it, set a budget for yourself, and try to stick to it as best you can. Worrying about how much money you're burning every time you run your car will suck all the enjoyment out of it!
Agreed! No one ever said this was a budget hobby. Get used to spending the money as it is going to happen if you plan on racing. Either electric or nitro you will spend money(trust me I run both). Electric 1/8 scale is not cheap either. Don't go electric because you want to save money. There's nothing wrong with going electric if you want to(assuming they have their own class/not running with the nitro's), but you won't save any money so that shouldn't be the reason.

There are ways of cutting some costs as far as engines go. Pick a relatively inexpensive engine(such as the Werks B5) and take good care of it. Break it in well, change your air filters often, keep your tune in check, run good fuel, etc... Just doing those things will make your engine last longer and in turn save you money. You can get quality glow plugs pretty cheap(such as Odonnell plugs). Again saving money. I personally suggest running a lower nitro content fuel such as 20% fuel. That will not only cost you less as far a buying fuel is concerned but will also give you a bit more longevity out of the engine. I run Odonnell 20% fuel in all of my engines and don't get beat down the straight by anyone. Don't fall for 30% fuel. It's not needed or doing you any good.

Last thing, don't rebuild engines. It's not worth it. In most cases you will pay as much or more to rebuild an engine than you would to buy one new.
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:55 AM
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Yeah i will get a new motor after the 454 is dead. I pretty much agree on the no rebuilding but i guess i'm just wondering if a part in the motor goes bad at like the 3 gallon mark it seems to make sense to replace that part since the motor isn't dead yet.

Are are some other good racing motors in the 200 to 220 range?

Thanks for all the help so far.
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:34 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by bacchus
Yeah i will get a new motor after the 454 is dead. I pretty much agree on the no rebuilding but i guess i'm just wondering if a part in the motor goes bad at like the 3 gallon mark it seems to make sense to replace that part since the motor isn't dead yet.

Are are some other good racing motors in the 200 to 220 range?

Thanks for all the help so far.
I keep hearing you come back to having a backup engine and that certainly makes sense. If the 454 is at least a decent RTR engine ( I don't know a thing about it) and follows the rule of thumb for a mid grade engine you should just get it pinched at the end of it's life and keep it for a backup becuase everything else will still be good enough to survive after the p/s refresh. By comparison, I had a Kyosho RTR engine that ran so hot that I learned the hard way how bearings can explode just after a few gallons because of the stress of high heat and other bad things that can go wrong by not keeping air filters clean enough. If the 454 runs OK then the bearings and rod bushing should last like any other engine.
So keep new air filters on it regularly, follow all of the other advice like BDC when you shut it off and after run oil if not using it for a couple days. Then what you should do is when it won't hold a tune good anymore and you suspect the piston/sleeve is worn, check all bearings and the rod to crank fit and if it looks like it is in good shape get the p/s pinched for $20 you have a good backup you are familiar with that will run good again. My $0.02. Many have told you to just leave it behind but you never know when you might really need it or want it for something and this way it's financially makes sense to "rebuild" it. It sounds to me like you really don't want to just chuck it so consider pinching.

In short - Yes, there is a part that makes sense to replace - but you shouldn't have to spend the money on new p/s. Get it pinched!
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:00 PM
  #29  
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i don't see how people still say electric is cheaper. No way! The price of engines, plugs, clutch bells, clutch shoes and springs/bearings, flywheels, Con rod and bearing replacement, fuel, glo ignitor, starter box, starter box batteries, tunned pipes, aro, pipe manifold springs and gaskets, air filters, air filter oil, air filter necks, engine tools and screws, heat gun, engine sealant, temp gun (use this for electrics to).

On an on and on and on. Not to mention P/S maintence and replacement.


and if you are real good and you can get it to run really well and have it last more then five gallons. Your a pro
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by smoc73
hey
Hey!
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