220LikesTamiya FF03
11-29-2010, 12:58 AM
#1547
Tech Apprentice
Its great to see that the front wheel drive class is so well supported over there... We are trying to get our foot in the door (or should I say; back in the door?) in the Midlands (UK) and at the moment things are painfully slow... Drivers don't realise how much fun they can be! 
11-29-2010, 09:04 AM
#1548
Its great to see that the front wheel drive class is so well supported over there... We are trying to get our foot in the door (or should I say; back in the door?) in the Midlands (UK) and at the moment things are painfully slow... Drivers don't realise how much fun they can be!
I haven't given up yet though. Maybe the new (to UK) 21.5 class may help it ?
11-29-2010, 09:18 AM
#1549
Tech Apprentice
Hi Nimo, I saw that you have been 'flying the flag' down in Aldershot & even giving driving tips away (the others will get quicker!)...
The 21.5 sounds promising & truth be told, I hadn't an inkling of it. I have been blown away by the 'modded' 17.5s with altered profiles, but against non mods & brushed (anyone remember them?
) the FF03 is, to coin a phrase, AWESOME.
Down on the coast in New Milton they're running sealed cans (about 19 turns) & things are definitely more driver orientated (not 'fat wallet racing')
Anyway, Bob at Bedworth will run a separate heat if we can turn out 4 drivers minimum, we have 3, fancy a visit?
The 21.5 sounds promising & truth be told, I hadn't an inkling of it. I have been blown away by the 'modded' 17.5s with altered profiles, but against non mods & brushed (anyone remember them?
) the FF03 is, to coin a phrase, AWESOME.Down on the coast in New Milton they're running sealed cans (about 19 turns) & things are definitely more driver orientated (not 'fat wallet racing')
Anyway, Bob at Bedworth will run a separate heat if we can turn out 4 drivers minimum, we have 3, fancy a visit?
11-29-2010, 09:42 AM
#1550
Hi Nimo, I saw that you have been 'flying the flag' down in Aldershot & even giving driving tips away (the others will get quicker!)...
The 21.5 sounds promising & truth be told, I hadn't an inkling of it. I have been blown away by the 'modded' 17.5s with altered profiles, but against non mods & brushed (anyone remember them?) the FF03 is, to coin a phrase, AWESOME.
Down on the coast in New Milton they're running sealed cans (about 19 turns) & things are definitely more driver orientated (not 'fat wallet racing')
Anyway, Bob at Bedworth will run a separate heat if we can turn out 4 drivers minimum, we have 3, fancy a visit?
The 21.5 sounds promising & truth be told, I hadn't an inkling of it. I have been blown away by the 'modded' 17.5s with altered profiles, but against non mods & brushed (anyone remember them?
) the FF03 is, to coin a phrase, AWESOME.Down on the coast in New Milton they're running sealed cans (about 19 turns) & things are definitely more driver orientated (not 'fat wallet racing')
Anyway, Bob at Bedworth will run a separate heat if we can turn out 4 drivers minimum, we have 3, fancy a visit?
I reckon 21.5 to be similar pace to an HPI Saturn 20T motor, so both high tech brushless and shoestring sealed can options look open for club racing.
I would love to get up to Bedworth again, but being race director for Aldershot and extra race dates make is awkward to get away for the 100+ mile trip there, but I will try my best.
I will also get the GF up and racing as she is showing big interest (mostly in SC trucks though)
(sorry I went a bit off topic guys)
11-29-2010, 09:44 AM
#1551
Tech Regular
Once the track temps climb alittle the racing will get better. Looking forward to seeing how my 27t FWD compares to the 17.5 4WD for straight line speed seeing as 4WD have to run 1450g and we run 1350g at bedworth.
11-29-2010, 09:49 AM
#1552
Tech Apprentice
11-29-2010, 09:55 AM
#1553
I sent an 18 lap time with it, which was a lap faster than we ever got with the FF01 and 27T Stock (which I dominated at most BRCA FWD meetings in the 90's), but I was no match for speed of a 4wd 17.5, and could not get on to the 19 lappers they were setting.
Main area I lost out in, and often got taken out in, was drive out of corners.
It was fine oncew steering was straight, but use any sort of turning and you will be rear ended.
I am hoping the lesser power of a 21.5 would eliminate some of the diffing out this car suffers from, although I am curious as to how a solid spool would work?
I still personally think that the TA03 in FWD only format was the best FWD car as it appeared to suffer very little diffing action and the rear seemed better planted (I lapped everyone at WLRC with it).
11-29-2010, 03:08 PM
#1554
I ran my FF-03 yesterday in my club's TCS warm-up event. I had my car set to the Canadian TCS rules which allows only the silver can motors; Tamiya tires, inserts & rims; Tamiya bodies; Tamiya upgrades and the Reedy 2400 2S Lipo battery. I had my gear ratio at 4.98 to start (92/48) and went to 4.78 (92/50) for the 4th and final run. The lowest allowed ratio is 3.8 but our track is small and technical so going that low wasn't an option.
We ran four heats and each time I felt that my car wasn't getting any drive for the first half dozen laps and thought that perhaps my diff was slipping. I tightened the diff twice during the day. Assuming my diff was good, I went out again and still felt that something was slipping. Could it be tire slippage perhaps? I had no idea and just drove through the problem. My results weren't great.
Today I took the transmission out of the car and disassembled the diff. I think the problem was the diff rings spinning in the plastic diff joints. The diff joints are keyed and have two flat spots but the diff rings don't have flats to match. This lets the diff rings spin on the diff joint if not glued well.
When I built my diff I used a couple of tiny drops of CA to glue the rings to the diff joints, but that didn't seem to work well enough. The glue obviously failed. I have now scuffed the back of each diff ring and cleaned off the face of the diff joints. I plan to use some epoxy to glue these together. I'm hoping this will fix my slippage issues.
What a shame that Tamiya do not provide diff rings that key to the diff joints. Mine is the Pro kit afterall and you'd think that for the high price that they'd include something better. Shame on Tamiya for cheaping out like this.
Anyone else have this happen? Is there another solution other than epoxy to glue the steel rings to the plastic diff joints?
We ran four heats and each time I felt that my car wasn't getting any drive for the first half dozen laps and thought that perhaps my diff was slipping. I tightened the diff twice during the day. Assuming my diff was good, I went out again and still felt that something was slipping. Could it be tire slippage perhaps? I had no idea and just drove through the problem. My results weren't great.
Today I took the transmission out of the car and disassembled the diff. I think the problem was the diff rings spinning in the plastic diff joints. The diff joints are keyed and have two flat spots but the diff rings don't have flats to match. This lets the diff rings spin on the diff joint if not glued well.
When I built my diff I used a couple of tiny drops of CA to glue the rings to the diff joints, but that didn't seem to work well enough. The glue obviously failed. I have now scuffed the back of each diff ring and cleaned off the face of the diff joints. I plan to use some epoxy to glue these together. I'm hoping this will fix my slippage issues.
What a shame that Tamiya do not provide diff rings that key to the diff joints. Mine is the Pro kit afterall and you'd think that for the high price that they'd include something better. Shame on Tamiya for cheaping out like this.
Anyone else have this happen? Is there another solution other than epoxy to glue the steel rings to the plastic diff joints?
11-29-2010, 03:45 PM
#1555
I ran my FF-03 yesterday in my club's TCS warm-up event. I had my car set to the Canadian TCS rules which allows only the silver can motors; Tamiya tires, inserts & rims; Tamiya bodies; Tamiya upgrades and the Reedy 2400 2S Lipo battery. I had my gear ratio at 4.98 to start (92/48) and went to 4.78 (92/50) for the 4th and final run. The lowest allowed ratio is 3.8 but our track is small and technical so going that low wasn't an option.
We ran four heats and each time I felt that my car wasn't getting any drive for the first half dozen laps and thought that perhaps my diff was slipping. I tightened the diff twice during the day. Assuming my diff was good, I went out again and still felt that something was slipping. Could it be tire slippage perhaps? I had no idea and just drove through the problem. My results weren't great.
Today I took the transmission out of the car and disassembled the diff. I think the problem was the diff rings spinning in the plastic diff joints. The diff joints are keyed and have two flat spots but the diff rings don't have flats to match. This lets the diff rings spin on the diff joint if not glued well.
When I built my diff I used a couple of tiny drops of CA to glue the rings to the diff joints, but that didn't seem to work well enough. The glue obviously failed. I have now scuffed the back of each diff ring and cleaned off the face of the diff joints. I plan to use some epoxy to glue these together. I'm hoping this will fix my slippage issues.
What a shame that Tamiya do not provide diff rings that key to the diff joints. Mine is the Pro kit afterall and you'd think that for the high price that they'd include something better. Shame on Tamiya for cheaping out like this.
Anyone else have this happen? Is there another solution other than epoxy to glue the steel rings to the plastic diff joints?
We ran four heats and each time I felt that my car wasn't getting any drive for the first half dozen laps and thought that perhaps my diff was slipping. I tightened the diff twice during the day. Assuming my diff was good, I went out again and still felt that something was slipping. Could it be tire slippage perhaps? I had no idea and just drove through the problem. My results weren't great.
Today I took the transmission out of the car and disassembled the diff. I think the problem was the diff rings spinning in the plastic diff joints. The diff joints are keyed and have two flat spots but the diff rings don't have flats to match. This lets the diff rings spin on the diff joint if not glued well.
When I built my diff I used a couple of tiny drops of CA to glue the rings to the diff joints, but that didn't seem to work well enough. The glue obviously failed. I have now scuffed the back of each diff ring and cleaned off the face of the diff joints. I plan to use some epoxy to glue these together. I'm hoping this will fix my slippage issues.
What a shame that Tamiya do not provide diff rings that key to the diff joints. Mine is the Pro kit afterall and you'd think that for the high price that they'd include something better. Shame on Tamiya for cheaping out like this.
Anyone else have this happen? Is there another solution other than epoxy to glue the steel rings to the plastic diff joints?
CA is not a go for this application.
11-29-2010, 03:54 PM
#1556
I ran my FF-03 yesterday in my club's TCS warm-up event. I had my car set to the Canadian TCS rules which allows only the silver can motors; Tamiya tires, inserts & rims; Tamiya bodies; Tamiya upgrades and the Reedy 2400 2S Lipo battery. I had my gear ratio at 4.98 to start (92/48) and went to 4.78 (92/50) for the 4th and final run. The lowest allowed ratio is 3.8 but our track is small and technical so going that low wasn't an option.
We ran four heats and each time I felt that my car wasn't getting any drive for the first half dozen laps and thought that perhaps my diff was slipping. I tightened the diff twice during the day. Assuming my diff was good, I went out again and still felt that something was slipping. Could it be tire slippage perhaps? I had no idea and just drove through the problem. My results weren't great.
Today I took the transmission out of the car and disassembled the diff. I think the problem was the diff rings spinning in the plastic diff joints. The diff joints are keyed and have two flat spots but the diff rings don't have flats to match. This lets the diff rings spin on the diff joint if not glued well.
When I built my diff I used a couple of tiny drops of CA to glue the rings to the diff joints, but that didn't seem to work well enough. The glue obviously failed. I have now scuffed the back of each diff ring and cleaned off the face of the diff joints. I plan to use some epoxy to glue these together. I'm hoping this will fix my slippage issues.
What a shame that Tamiya do not provide diff rings that key to the diff joints. Mine is the Pro kit afterall and you'd think that for the high price that they'd include something better. Shame on Tamiya for cheaping out like this.
Anyone else have this happen? Is there another solution other than epoxy to glue the steel rings to the plastic diff joints?
We ran four heats and each time I felt that my car wasn't getting any drive for the first half dozen laps and thought that perhaps my diff was slipping. I tightened the diff twice during the day. Assuming my diff was good, I went out again and still felt that something was slipping. Could it be tire slippage perhaps? I had no idea and just drove through the problem. My results weren't great.
Today I took the transmission out of the car and disassembled the diff. I think the problem was the diff rings spinning in the plastic diff joints. The diff joints are keyed and have two flat spots but the diff rings don't have flats to match. This lets the diff rings spin on the diff joint if not glued well.
When I built my diff I used a couple of tiny drops of CA to glue the rings to the diff joints, but that didn't seem to work well enough. The glue obviously failed. I have now scuffed the back of each diff ring and cleaned off the face of the diff joints. I plan to use some epoxy to glue these together. I'm hoping this will fix my slippage issues.
What a shame that Tamiya do not provide diff rings that key to the diff joints. Mine is the Pro kit afterall and you'd think that for the high price that they'd include something better. Shame on Tamiya for cheaping out like this.
Anyone else have this happen? Is there another solution other than epoxy to glue the steel rings to the plastic diff joints?
For the extra dollars you get a set of TRF shocks as well. This is not a high end kit . The Tamiya 416 comes with the same design diff rings so it has not really been an issue with slower motors.
As said above, you are using brittle glues to glue these in place. CA and epoxy doesn't bind well with metal
11-29-2010, 04:08 PM
#1557
High price?
For the extra dollars you get a set of TRF shocks as well. This is not a high end kit . The Tamiya 416 comes with the same design diff rings so it has not really been an issue with slower motors.
As said above, you are using brittle glues to glue these in place. CA and epoxy doesn't bind well with metal
For the extra dollars you get a set of TRF shocks as well. This is not a high end kit . The Tamiya 416 comes with the same design diff rings so it has not really been an issue with slower motors.
As said above, you are using brittle glues to glue these in place. CA and epoxy doesn't bind well with metal
11-29-2010, 04:11 PM
#1558
Main area I lost out in, and often got taken out in, was drive out of corners.
It was fine once steering was straight, but use any sort of turning and you will be rear ended.
I am hoping the lesser power of a 21.5 would eliminate some of the diffing out this car suffers from, although I am curious as to how a solid spool would work?
It was fine once steering was straight, but use any sort of turning and you will be rear ended.
I am hoping the lesser power of a 21.5 would eliminate some of the diffing out this car suffers from, although I am curious as to how a solid spool would work?
11-29-2010, 05:47 PM
#1560
guys, the volvo body is already discontinued, can't believe it, it had such a short run. I hope they re-release the mondeo body because it was a very popular one back in the old days.