littlealex

iTrader: (86)

hey mike, can you tell me what spool and c hub you are using?
what brand of 4mm hex do you guys use?

Matt W

Why do alot of racers use the thinner hexes with a 0.5mm shim. I measured the hexes and they're just over 4.3mm so if you add a 0.5mm shim your pretty much taking it back to the std hex size, any views?

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if many people use the thinner hexes with a 0.5mm spacer but it would be a good setup to free up the car a little bit by narrowing the front track width. (It also changes the scrub radius too)

If i remember correctly, thinner (4mm) hex is actually about 4.2mm like your measurement and the stock one (5mm) should be about 4.9mm. So there still is 0.2mm difference between the thinner one w/ a 0.5mm spacer and the stock one.

When you want more roll on the car, using 4mm hexes all around would be good.

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

Its a photon spool with sidepiece outdrives. Xray c hubs and knuckles. I have the 3racing sakura s 4mm hubs on currently, cost about 1/3 of the hb set i bought, and much easier to get a hold of.

littlealex

iTrader: (86)

thanks mike, is xray chub direct fit? i have a friend want to use hb cvd that will need bigger chub.

Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

Its a 3mm hinge pin, you will need to drill the arm bigger and get a 3mm pin. Also will need th ebushings to match the c hub

Stephen_102

They will have to cut their postage costs to UK/Ireland if they us guys to use their products! I tried to but a TCX chassis and got quoted $32 for postage at checkout. Dont think so.........

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

with all things being equal - is there any advantage to running a bigger spur over a smaller spur if you can make the same FDR?

i know some times a smaller spur will give you a bigger range of adjustments - but is there an advantage to running the one over the other aside from this?

this is just something i've been pondering for a little while

Ooj

2 things to consider:

1) Changing the spur sizes is a handy tool for changing the balance of the car. It can let you move the motor forwards and backwards in a belt car or for a shaftie, in and out of the centre line

2) Don't go too extreme because the gear mesh gets tricky and less efficient if there is a large spur and small pinion

Ooj

Has anyone tried the TCX specific Spec-R gear diff (SPR009-HB)?

I had a question about the out drives. Are the HB bones a direct fit or do we still need to do dremel work and use plastic blades?

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Just need to run plastic blades

Ooj

What other brand blades can be used? The HB ones are hard to find and very expensive.

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Others have been using Associated ones and drilling the pin hole out to fit the blade. Other than that you could switch the rear driveshafts to a TOP or Yokomo with Associated blades with no modification I believe. I dont use the diff so I cant say for sure.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

3racing's work perfectly as well - actually work a tiny bit better in the gear diff's outdrives because they seems ever so slightly narrower

Much cheaper too - AND you get 4 blades to a pack vs HB's 2/pack... Only downside, they are an obnoxious blue

kiloolli

Hello,

In the last weeks i read more in this thread. I had Change from TRF417 to the TCX. I hope it was a good change :-)

I've changed the following:

Spec-R gear Diff with MR33 Type A Diff. Oil
Tamiya 46mm Steel Drive Shaft
Spec-R Shock Tower -2
Roche Spool
Geiger Chassis
4mm Hex with 0,2mm Spec-R Diff Shim in Front
Yokomo Steering Knuckle

Next Race is ETS in Andernach