wyd

iTrader: (51)

Once you get their and run you will know if your car is in setup pretty close.

ukeejim

Help;
Too many boards have left me out of parts. I am in need of front suspension arms (or sets) for the Evo 4, or LW suspension. If anyone knows a shop or e store that has stock, or has spares to sell, please let me know.
Thanks;
Jim D,
[email protected]

fraz

I run foam mod and got it to work fine. My solution was to cut down the fronts on the truer and it is not that hard and very quick to do. I cut a ~1 - 1.5mm ring off of each front tire and run the stock red and blue shim. In the rear I have two red shims so the 28mm tires will clear the shock ends. I run the #2 a-arm position front and rear and it works great.

To cut the wheels, just use an xacto and use the bar that the cutter rides on as a steady rest. then fire up the truer and rest the blade on top of the tire once you have it lined up. My cuts come out almost perfect every time using this technique. The general rules to follow are:

*Wear safety glasses

* Make sure the sharp part of the blade is addressing the thing you are cutting, not the tip.

* Make sure tire rotation is going AWAY from you when looking from the top.

* Use the transit bar as a steady rest for the tool. If you try to freestyle it in mid air, you will never get good results and possibly injure yourself.

* Apply constant pressure until the cut is all the way through (don't stop).

* Don't be afraid. If you usually chicken out with machine tools, maybe you shouldn't do this


You can cut about .5mm increments off of tires using this technique and I have been doing it for years and still have both eyes and all of my fingers

ukeejim

If you do not want to narrow your tires, you can run X-X suspension blocks, that brings you in to 187 mm. X-A works, but sweeps the pins back and induces toe. If you run X-X and add
1 mm spacers behind the wheel, you still have to trim the steering arm (knuckle). I run the square knuckle, (alum) and have clearanced it to clear the wheels. Does anyone have another way to skin this cat, please post it here.

fraz

I don't know about the Square knuckles but with the stock parts, this won't work. I have shaves the knuckle down dangerously close to the ball stud, and have 1.5mm or spacers behind the wheel. While it may spin "ok" on the bench, the car will suffer inconsistent behavior when the plastic of the wheels gets under load and starts to deflect. Even a slight rub with a oneway will cause some scary handling features. That is why I just bit the bullet and started cutting the front wheels.

There is another reason I think doing the narrow/shim technique is the wrong way to go about it. By narrowing the hinge pins you effect the roll moment and by widening the car at the same time with shims, you have really changed the suspension geometry quite a bit. I prefer to use suspension changes for what they are designed for unless I have no other options.

With that said, I would like to try X/X in the front on carpet instead of A/A that I normally run because I think it would help the car in the transition... but that's another story

KiwiKid

Made this transponder holder for my evo 4 using an old TA-04 front bumper stay and scrap polycarbonate.

Works very well.

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

I like it. Think it looks pretty nifty. I'm just gonna buy a personal transponder and be done with it. :-)

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Nice job

Well ran the car last night for the first time with Rubber tires and the silver acn Tamiya motor ( I know but thats the house class we have) and the car was realy quick. I had a pretty good setup on but I could use a little more steering which I will will work on next time I run that class in about 3 weeks. I have a good starting spot and will work from their. My Tamiya A's were about shot but still had great grip so I will just use them again next time I run.

viper1

Hi Guys,

My apologies if this question sounds silly. I have built the Evo 4 but found that the diff and the one way has some play when shimmed according to the manual. The same goes for the input shaft.

Anyone else has this issue? could you share your shim setup.

The bearings from the kit is one of those that requires the most work that i have ever seen. They are literally packed with grease. not sure if you guys have a similar problems.

Cheers

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I would imagine each kits has a little difference in tolerances and the manual gets you close. Mine is pretty mcuh cool with only a little play in the spur gear shimming but noting bad. Very good overall. I would say have a selection of shims and add one or two and see how your car spins and feels. It is all feel anyways plus as you run your car you might see you need more or less depending on how free it is.

But for you original question I have stock shimming except on the left side of my one way...I have 2 shims istead of the manuals 3 shims is shows (mine was just alittle tight witht he manual setup).

infrontracing

iTrader: (9)

I have a Pro 4 right now that I love. But I want a Tamiya to be my main car for next season. I want to get it as dialed as my pro 4 so I can go to the TCS races next year.

Has anyone ran both cars? I would like to know how similar they are since they both have the same drive train and basic set up. And another thing is, will there be a new high end Tamiya car out by then? It will be at least 8 or 9 months before i get a Tamiya so its probably anyones guess huh? Anyway, I love the looks of the Evo 4 and plan to get one eventually. Even if its called the Evo 5 by then. lol

Galifrey

Re-read the manual the shims shown are just a start point... The text says to use the shims to set the mesh..

BrainTeased

iTrader: (4)

Hi i wouldnt claim i have the best mesh but what i did was i added a 0.3 mm shm on the ring gear side to bring the ring gear closer in to the pinion gear (small gear) i did the same for both front and rear.

fraz

First shim the diff/oneway according to the manual and fit it without the crown gear/shaft installed. Then add shims to get there to be no side to side play but to where it is still free and does not bind. You now have the correct number of shims. Now add the crown gear shimmed according to the manual. This one should be fine without adjustment. If the diff doesn't snap in easy, don't force it. All you have to do is remove shims from one side and add them to the other. Make sure you replace at least one of the .3mm shims with three .1mm shims so you can fine tune it.

When it is done right, there will be no play and minimal "backlash". If you are unsure of this word, backlash is the "mesh" or play between two bevel gears like in a differential in a full sized car. You want just a tick of backlash. Too much and your gears will wear prematurely and be jerky on the throttle. Too little (i.e. too tight) and your drivetrain will not roll free and again, you will get premature gear wear.

fraz

Am I blind or something? I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the shields off of the 950 bearings. I cannot even see the clip. Any tips?