Ask Aaron Waldron
04-14-2004, 02:26 PM
#31
I don't promote neglecting your equipment, especially when it may end up with permanent damage (magnets that have gotten very hot will lose strength).
That said..if my truck doesn't tail off at the end of the race, and it has good power, I don't care of the can is so hot it'll fry an egg.
If your track is on the small side, and your batteries are less than ridiculous when it comes to voltage, it's perfectly ok to gear lower than 11.6
That said..if my truck doesn't tail off at the end of the race, and it has good power, I don't care of the can is so hot it'll fry an egg.
If your track is on the small side, and your batteries are less than ridiculous when it comes to voltage, it's perfectly ok to gear lower than 11.6
04-14-2004, 07:10 PM
#32
Aaron,
On your truck setup, you run the rear shocks at the 2-inside position. I almost always run the 3-middle position. Am I correct in that when you move the top of the shock in, it makes the suspension softer and allows the car to "carve" turns a little better? Could you give me a little insight on the different shock positions compared to track conditions?
Thanks!
On your truck setup, you run the rear shocks at the 2-inside position. I almost always run the 3-middle position. Am I correct in that when you move the top of the shock in, it makes the suspension softer and allows the car to "carve" turns a little better? Could you give me a little insight on the different shock positions compared to track conditions?
Thanks!
04-14-2004, 09:41 PM
#33
Moving the shocks in on either the top or bottom will soften things up a bit. The more the shocks are "standing up", the more linear the shock will feel, while the more "laid down" it is, the more progressive it will feel.
The XXX trucks (T and NT) handle best with a lot of downtravel in the rear, so much so that we unthread the eyelets on the ends of the shocks on our gas trucks (not really necessary on the XXX-T). Running the shock on the inside of the arm gives you the most downtravel.
Moving the shock out on the tower will stiffen the truck up and reduce body roll going into the corner; this is a good idea when the track has a lot of grip and there are many high speed corners, but the same thing can be accomplished by lengthening the rear camber link (going to 0 deg. or even +1/2 or +1 deg camber), which won't change the way the truck jumps. More body roll will usually allow the truck to pivot in the middle of the corner and rotate quickly, while less body roll will help the truck carve through sweeping corners.
I hope that was the answer you were looking for? If not, let me know.
The XXX trucks (T and NT) handle best with a lot of downtravel in the rear, so much so that we unthread the eyelets on the ends of the shocks on our gas trucks (not really necessary on the XXX-T). Running the shock on the inside of the arm gives you the most downtravel.
Moving the shock out on the tower will stiffen the truck up and reduce body roll going into the corner; this is a good idea when the track has a lot of grip and there are many high speed corners, but the same thing can be accomplished by lengthening the rear camber link (going to 0 deg. or even +1/2 or +1 deg camber), which won't change the way the truck jumps. More body roll will usually allow the truck to pivot in the middle of the corner and rotate quickly, while less body roll will help the truck carve through sweeping corners.
I hope that was the answer you were looking for? If not, let me know.
04-15-2004, 06:50 AM
#34
Instead of just talking about it, I thought I'd just post it. Here's my current setup
Front:
oil-35
piston-57
spring-2"blue
limiter-internal .200"
location-1 on tower, inside on arm
spindle-down
link- 3B w/2 washers
tire-8-Rib w/2stage
Rear:
oil-27.5
piston-56
spring-yellow
limiter-.056"
location-3 on tower, middle on arm
hub-center
link-2A
tire-taper w/2stage
Even with a mod, you'd be hard pressed to make anything spin on the surface we're running on right now. It'll take a few weeks to dry out and loosen up. Basically, the track is set-up with one sweeper into a massive quad. Other than that, everything is low to medium-low speed turns. There's also a rythm section and a handful of doubles scattered throughout. If there's anything you can do to help with fine-tuning my setup for these conditions, that would be awesome!
Thanks a bunch!
-chris
Front:
oil-35
piston-57
spring-2"blue
limiter-internal .200"
location-1 on tower, inside on arm
spindle-down
link- 3B w/2 washers
tire-8-Rib w/2stage
Rear:
oil-27.5
piston-56
spring-yellow
limiter-.056"
location-3 on tower, middle on arm
hub-center
link-2A
tire-taper w/2stage
Even with a mod, you'd be hard pressed to make anything spin on the surface we're running on right now. It'll take a few weeks to dry out and loosen up. Basically, the track is set-up with one sweeper into a massive quad. Other than that, everything is low to medium-low speed turns. There's also a rythm section and a handful of doubles scattered throughout. If there's anything you can do to help with fine-tuning my setup for these conditions, that would be awesome!
Thanks a bunch!
-chris
Last edited by mafiaracers; 04-15-2004 at 07:34 AM.
04-15-2004, 10:06 PM
#36
Two-stage in the front tires is a little weird..we almost always use the stock Losi foam in the front tires, and very rarely go to gray Bomb One. I'd think two-stage in the front tires would make your steering feel a little inconsistent, but I haven't really tried it much.
It's not even so much as changing camber positions in the rear, but just simply camber changes will change how the car goes through a corner. Shortening the camber link (giving the tire more camber), or moving to 3-A will help the car pivot more in the corner.
Don't worry about "all the questions"...that's why I'm here!
It's not even so much as changing camber positions in the rear, but just simply camber changes will change how the car goes through a corner. Shortening the camber link (giving the tire more camber), or moving to 3-A will help the car pivot more in the corner.
Don't worry about "all the questions"...that's why I'm here!
04-16-2004, 05:30 PM
#37
Tomorrow is the first round of the 4th Annual Southern California Saturday Series, a nitro-only six-race points series between The Dirt and Pro-Line's facility.
..tomorrow I get my #1 plates!
Check it out at www.thedirtracing.com or www.pro-lineracing.com and if you're in the area, drop by Pro-Line's facility to watch 150 of some of the fastest nitro racers from CA, NV, and AZ battle it out on one huge track!
..tomorrow I get my #1 plates!
Check it out at www.thedirtracing.com or www.pro-lineracing.com and if you're in the area, drop by Pro-Line's facility to watch 150 of some of the fastest nitro racers from CA, NV, and AZ battle it out on one huge track!
04-17-2004, 12:32 AM
#38
Aaron,
OK, here's what I did. I raced this Friday and made a few changes that luckily for me were for the better.
In the front, I changed from a blue to a green spring and left everything else the same. In the rear, I tried your shock setup. I moved the position from #3-middle with yellow..... to #2 inside with pink. This also made the car feel a ton better. Then I changed the rear piston from a 56 to a 55 and left the oil (27.5)the same....again, a change for the better. Lastly, I added an extra degree of anti-squat, so now there is roughly 3 degrees.
By the way, 82-17 gearing is dialed! It actually tucks the motor WAY up into the car. You should check it out sometime. I also did what you said and charged at 4 amps...instead of my usual 6. Temp is down, runtime is up and punch is through the roof!
On a better note...I won stock truck so you are officially the man!
Thanks a whole lot!
-chris
OK, here's what I did. I raced this Friday and made a few changes that luckily for me were for the better.
In the front, I changed from a blue to a green spring and left everything else the same. In the rear, I tried your shock setup. I moved the position from #3-middle with yellow..... to #2 inside with pink. This also made the car feel a ton better. Then I changed the rear piston from a 56 to a 55 and left the oil (27.5)the same....again, a change for the better. Lastly, I added an extra degree of anti-squat, so now there is roughly 3 degrees.
By the way, 82-17 gearing is dialed! It actually tucks the motor WAY up into the car. You should check it out sometime. I also did what you said and charged at 4 amps...instead of my usual 6. Temp is down, runtime is up and punch is through the roof!
On a better note...I won stock truck so you are officially the man!
Thanks a whole lot!
-chris
04-17-2004, 01:29 AM
#39
aaron is the next kinwald or drake of the sport!! next thing ya know...the xxxx-t waldron edition LOL
04-17-2004, 05:07 PM
#40
Chris - Haha well I'm glad I was able to help, but it sounds like you did most of that yourself!
Great job!
Brandon - I'd be happy with "Team Losi Mini-T Aaron Waldron Edition"
Kinwald has won more national titles than the Yankees, and I've been trying for a couple years now to beat Adam..haha
We'll see, but thanks anyway! Is this someone I know?
Great job!
Brandon - I'd be happy with "Team Losi Mini-T Aaron Waldron Edition"
Kinwald has won more national titles than the Yankees, and I've been trying for a couple years now to beat Adam..haha
We'll see, but thanks anyway! Is this someone I know?
04-17-2004, 09:16 PM
#41
quicklilvette
04-18-2004, 12:09 AM
#42
Ooooh..ok!
04-18-2004, 10:10 AM
#43
Aaron,
What is the purpose of putting a full rear foam or a 3/4 rear foam into a buggy front tire? Especially in a silver compound tire which is a harder compound. I haven't tried it yet but it would seem tough to sqeeze a full rear foam in that skinny tire to me. I haven't raced offroad in about 7 years and we used to leave the foam out all together in the front tire. Probably because the compounds were much harder back then.
Thanks!!!!
What is the purpose of putting a full rear foam or a 3/4 rear foam into a buggy front tire? Especially in a silver compound tire which is a harder compound. I haven't tried it yet but it would seem tough to sqeeze a full rear foam in that skinny tire to me. I haven't raced offroad in about 7 years and we used to leave the foam out all together in the front tire. Probably because the compounds were much harder back then.
Thanks!!!!
04-18-2004, 11:36 AM
#44
As of now, there's no company that makes harder foam for the front tires of 2wd buggies, so you gotta stuff more foam in there to get the same firmness.
This trick came from back in the day when all foam was really soft. Back then, you'd run truck foams in 2wd rear tires to get them to firm up, for the same reason.
Stiffer foam for front tires gives you less sidewall flex and more predictable steering on high speed tracks.
To tell you the truth..no one does that down here really..I have been using the stock Losi foam that comes with the front tires for a long time now.
This trick came from back in the day when all foam was really soft. Back then, you'd run truck foams in 2wd rear tires to get them to firm up, for the same reason.
Stiffer foam for front tires gives you less sidewall flex and more predictable steering on high speed tracks.
To tell you the truth..no one does that down here really..I have been using the stock Losi foam that comes with the front tires for a long time now.
04-18-2004, 10:14 PM
#45
Ask Aaron Waldron
Aaron,
When are you going to get a touring car? Blonde or Brunette? How do you like racing in Vegas, I hear it's a blast?
Thanks..
When are you going to get a touring car? Blonde or Brunette? How do you like racing in Vegas, I hear it's a blast?
Thanks..