Ask Aaron Waldron
06-09-2004, 01:44 AM
#347
Ratio for the O.G XXXT tranny
Does anyone remember if it was 2:4 or 2:6?
Thanks
Thanks
06-09-2004, 06:46 AM
#349
Tech Adept
XXXKE Diff
I posted this in other forum but haven't got much info, thought I would try here.
Just finished building a XXXKE and I seem to have a some trouble with the diff. I built it according to the instruction. First tighten the diff until it doesn't move while holding both outdrives. Once it is installed in the car, I tighten the slipper clutch nut all the way down. Then holding the spur and the right wheel, the left wheel barely move when I try to turn it. Loosen the slippper clutch nut 4 turns and the car seems to slip within 2 feet. However, the diff will come loose within a few min. First time when I tried to tighten it, I broke the diff screw. After fixing it, I ran the car again and the diff slip within a few minutes. This time I melted the diff. gear. I would understand the need to adjust the diff after a few packs but not within minutes. The locknut that secure the diff screw is the new type one piece unit. I wonder should I have used threadlock to secure the diff screw to prevent the diff. from coming loose. By the way I am only running the car on a baseball diamond with no jumps.
Any tips?
Thanks
Just finished building a XXXKE and I seem to have a some trouble with the diff. I built it according to the instruction. First tighten the diff until it doesn't move while holding both outdrives. Once it is installed in the car, I tighten the slipper clutch nut all the way down. Then holding the spur and the right wheel, the left wheel barely move when I try to turn it. Loosen the slippper clutch nut 4 turns and the car seems to slip within 2 feet. However, the diff will come loose within a few min. First time when I tried to tighten it, I broke the diff screw. After fixing it, I ran the car again and the diff slip within a few minutes. This time I melted the diff. gear. I would understand the need to adjust the diff after a few packs but not within minutes. The locknut that secure the diff screw is the new type one piece unit. I wonder should I have used threadlock to secure the diff screw to prevent the diff. from coming loose. By the way I am only running the car on a baseball diamond with no jumps.
Any tips?
Thanks
06-09-2004, 06:58 AM
#350
Ryan - That was the run of my LIFE. Adam and Jared got together in the first corner of the race, and I got out in front for a couple laps. The two of them caught up early on, and I let Adam by to try and hold off Jared for a while, but Adam flamed out less than a half of a lap later (his air filter had fallen off and it killed the motor).
This put me back in the lead, with Jared about 10 ft. behind. I led most of the 11 minutes, including pit stops (my dad was on the ball!). He did pass me two or three times, but I got him back in the next corner cleanly. Around the 11 minute mark, I misjudged the rutted face of a jump and bobbled, and he got by.
You better get down here for RC Pro..it's gonna be dialed!
kford - Thanks for the kind words. My R/C job is to hang out and talk to people, and do my best while racing..so it's pretty cool. You can get the whole Saturday Series schedule on The Dirt's website, and we'll be at every one of them. Also..we have a big race in July at Hot Rod called the Hot Rod Shootout (www.hotrodhobbies.com). If you can make it, that'd be a great race to watch, as all the fastest electric racers in the world will be there. They have Sportsman classes as well, which you might want to look into racing!
Anytime you want my opinion on anything, or some pointers on driving or whatever, drop me a line here or in my e-mail.
mafiaracers - Yup!
sponger - mafia hit the nail on the head. The new trannies are 2.55.
supra - You're doing everything correctly, including adjusting the diff to not slip. The parts need time to break in, which is much easier to do while you have the car sitting in the pits. Hold the car by the rear, facing away from you, and your radio in your left hand. Pull the throttle a little bit (1/4 throttle is plenty) and put one tire on the pit table. This will allow only the opposite tire to spin, and you need to do this for about 10 seconds. Repeat for the opposite side, back and forth, about five times each. This will allow all the parts inside the diff to "wear in" and seat together. After you're done doing that, you will need to readjust the diff, because it will have loosened up as the parts seated together.
After that, check the diff every couple of minutes for the first battery pack, and it will last much longer.
This put me back in the lead, with Jared about 10 ft. behind. I led most of the 11 minutes, including pit stops (my dad was on the ball!). He did pass me two or three times, but I got him back in the next corner cleanly. Around the 11 minute mark, I misjudged the rutted face of a jump and bobbled, and he got by.
You better get down here for RC Pro..it's gonna be dialed!
kford - Thanks for the kind words. My R/C job is to hang out and talk to people, and do my best while racing..so it's pretty cool. You can get the whole Saturday Series schedule on The Dirt's website, and we'll be at every one of them. Also..we have a big race in July at Hot Rod called the Hot Rod Shootout (www.hotrodhobbies.com). If you can make it, that'd be a great race to watch, as all the fastest electric racers in the world will be there. They have Sportsman classes as well, which you might want to look into racing!
Anytime you want my opinion on anything, or some pointers on driving or whatever, drop me a line here or in my e-mail.
mafiaracers - Yup!
sponger - mafia hit the nail on the head. The new trannies are 2.55.
supra - You're doing everything correctly, including adjusting the diff to not slip. The parts need time to break in, which is much easier to do while you have the car sitting in the pits. Hold the car by the rear, facing away from you, and your radio in your left hand. Pull the throttle a little bit (1/4 throttle is plenty) and put one tire on the pit table. This will allow only the opposite tire to spin, and you need to do this for about 10 seconds. Repeat for the opposite side, back and forth, about five times each. This will allow all the parts inside the diff to "wear in" and seat together. After you're done doing that, you will need to readjust the diff, because it will have loosened up as the parts seated together.
After that, check the diff every couple of minutes for the first battery pack, and it will last much longer.
06-09-2004, 07:00 AM
#351
HeY!!!
Aaron i am running the original losi xxx-nt about 2 yrs old i think from before the ADE came out, i got it from a friend and i'm pretty sure it's the stock one's or the cheaper ball studs. thanx for the info, i'll prolly get some then.
Aaron i am running the original losi xxx-nt about 2 yrs old i think from before the ADE came out, i got it from a friend and i'm pretty sure it's the stock one's or the cheaper ball studs. thanx for the info, i'll prolly get some then.
06-09-2004, 10:31 AM
#352
Aaron,
The last round of the Pro Series is at my home track's outdoor track. http://www.amainraceway.com/content/...d_OD_track.asp There's some pictures of the track. Its huge. We're doing about 6-7 laps in a 5 minute main! Believe you me, 6 laps and you're on the ball, 7 and you're dialed! I hope to finally meet you out there. BTW, the track is right next to a professional go-cart track with 70 MPH rental carts! OH YEAH!
Peace!
The last round of the Pro Series is at my home track's outdoor track. http://www.amainraceway.com/content/...d_OD_track.asp There's some pictures of the track. Its huge. We're doing about 6-7 laps in a 5 minute main! Believe you me, 6 laps and you're on the ball, 7 and you're dialed! I hope to finally meet you out there. BTW, the track is right next to a professional go-cart track with 70 MPH rental carts! OH YEAH!
Peace!
06-09-2004, 02:29 PM
#353
Josh - Try the normal length Ti studs first..if you are still breaking them, try the short neck ones.
I remember trying to drive my first XXX-NT after years with my NXT..it was crazy!
mafia - I don't think we're gonna make that round, but we're definitely doing the other two RC Pro West races.
Maybe someday..those rental carts sound like fun :-D
I remember trying to drive my first XXX-NT after years with my NXT..it was crazy!
mafia - I don't think we're gonna make that round, but we're definitely doing the other two RC Pro West races.
Maybe someday..those rental carts sound like fun :-D
06-09-2004, 03:48 PM
#354
Tech Apprentice
Engine Trouble
hey im in seious need of some help!lol
just bought my nitro sport a couple days ago and its all broke in. the only problem i have is when i press the brake the engine shuts down and since im new to this im not sure what the problem is.please help me if u can..
just bought my nitro sport a couple days ago and its all broke in. the only problem i have is when i press the brake the engine shuts down and since im new to this im not sure what the problem is.please help me if u can..
06-09-2004, 03:56 PM
#355
cwbrider - One of two things can be causing that.
1) Your linkage is closing the carb completely when you press the brake. You will need to redo all the linkages and straighten them out (I believe it talks about that in the manual).
Take the air filter off (make sure the WHOLE area is clean!) and turn your radio on. Push the brake, and see if the opening in the carb closes off. If so, that's your problem.
2) Your clutch is hanging up, and when you hit the brakes, the engaged clutch is stopping the rotation of the flywheel, killing the engine.
To check that, take the clutch bell off, and make sure the clutch spring is still connected and holding the shoes together. Also, make sure the clutch bell spins freely.
1) Your linkage is closing the carb completely when you press the brake. You will need to redo all the linkages and straighten them out (I believe it talks about that in the manual).
Take the air filter off (make sure the WHOLE area is clean!) and turn your radio on. Push the brake, and see if the opening in the carb closes off. If so, that's your problem.
2) Your clutch is hanging up, and when you hit the brakes, the engaged clutch is stopping the rotation of the flywheel, killing the engine.
To check that, take the clutch bell off, and make sure the clutch spring is still connected and holding the shoes together. Also, make sure the clutch bell spins freely.
06-10-2004, 10:22 AM
#356
How'd you get so cool Aaron?? 
06-10-2004, 10:38 AM
#357
^Hair jel....^
Aaron,
I was reviewing your BK1 setup and you said you run a 1B front link. Does that give you more front end roll, or stability or what. I don't want to touch my truck, but I'm still messing around with the buggy though.
Right now, I'm liking this:
Front:
30wt
56's
silver
2B-camber
middle on tower, inside on arm
Rear:
30wt
55's
yellow
2A
3 on tower (one in from outside) and outside on arm
I want to try that 1B in the front though...any thoughts?
Thanks!
Aaron,
I was reviewing your BK1 setup and you said you run a 1B front link. Does that give you more front end roll, or stability or what. I don't want to touch my truck, but I'm still messing around with the buggy though.
Right now, I'm liking this:
Front:
30wt
56's
silver
2B-camber
middle on tower, inside on arm
Rear:
30wt
55's
yellow
2A
3 on tower (one in from outside) and outside on arm
I want to try that 1B in the front though...any thoughts?
Thanks!
06-10-2004, 12:29 PM
#358
evicerator - Hair glue! See you at shootout?
mafia - The last time I ran my BK1, it was at Hot Rod for the Shootout, and in stock buggy. That setup keeps the car very flat and stable on high speed blue groove tracks. The long camber links stop body roll and weight transfer, which is just wasted kinetic energy. I never ran it for Mod, and wouldn't recommend it!
mafia - The last time I ran my BK1, it was at Hot Rod for the Shootout, and in stock buggy. That setup keeps the car very flat and stable on high speed blue groove tracks. The long camber links stop body roll and weight transfer, which is just wasted kinetic energy. I never ran it for Mod, and wouldn't recommend it!
06-10-2004, 01:38 PM
#360
gee-dub - The front end parts would be no big deal..arms and caster blocks.
On the rear end..the rear arms will fit on the BK1 pivot block as far as I know (check before you buy them). If they fit, then the hubs would fit on the arms, and you'd be done. I'm pretty sure the new pivot blocks won't work with the old tranny.
On the rear end..the rear arms will fit on the BK1 pivot block as far as I know (check before you buy them). If they fit, then the hubs would fit on the arms, and you'd be done. I'm pretty sure the new pivot blocks won't work with the old tranny.