Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Ask Aaron Waldron >

Ask Aaron Waldron

Ask Aaron Waldron

Old 11-25-2005, 12:17 PM
  #2641  
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
 
Aaron Waldron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 3,720
Default

ahsikes - Now's the part where I try to talk you out of a CV-R...for around the same price range, you can get one of the Adam Drake Edition motors. I ran the CV-R for years before I started racing for Trinity, so I know what they're like. The carburetors are great, but I did have bearing problems with them.

The Drake Engine carburetors are right up there with an O.S. carb...I'm not kidding. I haven't had a bearing failure yet, and I think the motor is a lot easier to drive faster with. It feels like a loud electric motor, very smooth and linear. I always felt like the CV-R was a little peaky on top and flat on the bottom.

mafia - I think they'll have a .12? I haven't seen the motor run (except on that cool animated movie, haha) so I have no idea how it's going to work.

arushmen - Anti-squat is the angle of the rear inner hinge pins in terms of the ground..the higher the angle (front of the pin is higher than the rear) the more anti-squat.

More anti-squat will give the car more forward bite, and make the rear end lock up more on acceleration. This will take away on-power steering. More anti-squat will go through square-edged bumps better, and it will jump higher (not always a good thing).

Less anti-squat will squat harder on acceleration, give more on-power steering, and go over rounded bumps better. It will stay lower over jumps, which can get the car back on the ground faster, something I prefer.

Kickup is the relation of the front inner hinge-pins to the round..more kick-up will usually go through bumps better and jump better.

Kick-up also changes caster, which is the relation of the kingpin (the hinge pin or screws that allow the steering knuckle to turn left and right). More caster is when the king-pin is leaning further back..more caster will steer in harder but have less steering coming out. The opposite can be said for running less caster.

Mugen's short springs allow you to run a lower ride-height but still run some pre-load on the springs. If you don't load the springs a bit with the pre-load collars, the car can feel mushy.
Aaron Waldron is offline  
Old 11-25-2005, 12:32 PM
  #2642  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 4,166
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
ahsikes - Now's the part where I try to talk you out of a CV-R...for around the same price range, you can get one of the Adam Drake Edition motors. I ran the CV-R for years before I started racing for Trinity, so I know what they're like. The carburetors are great, but I did have bearing problems with them.

The Drake Engine carburetors are right up there with an O.S. carb...I'm not kidding. I haven't had a bearing failure yet, and I think the motor is a lot easier to drive faster with. It feels like a loud electric motor, very smooth and linear. I always felt like the CV-R was a little peaky on top and flat on the bottom.

mafia - I think they'll have a .12? I haven't seen the motor run (except on that cool animated movie, haha) so I have no idea how it's going to work.

arushmen - Anti-squat is the angle of the rear inner hinge pins in terms of the ground..the higher the angle (front of the pin is higher than the rear) the more anti-squat.

More anti-squat will give the car more forward bite, and make the rear end lock up more on acceleration. This will take away on-power steering. More anti-squat will go through square-edged bumps better, and it will jump higher (not always a good thing).

Less anti-squat will squat harder on acceleration, give more on-power steering, and go over rounded bumps better. It will stay lower over jumps, which can get the car back on the ground faster, something I prefer.

Kickup is the relation of the front inner hinge-pins to the round..more kick-up will usually go through bumps better and jump better.

Kick-up also changes caster, which is the relation of the kingpin (the hinge pin or screws that allow the steering knuckle to turn left and right). More caster is when the king-pin is leaning further back..more caster will steer in harder but have less steering coming out. The opposite can be said for running less caster.

Mugen's short springs allow you to run a lower ride-height but still run some pre-load on the springs. If you don't load the springs a bit with the pre-load collars, the car can feel mushy.
Aaron, I am going to ask you to explain a theory or two since I disagree with you on anti squat.

More rear anti squat means the car does not squat as much when you are on power. Less weight transfers to the rear of the car. This should give more on power steering as you have less weight transferred to the rear of the car.

Less rear anti squat means the rear of the car squats more under acceleration. This raises the front end up. This should result in less on power steering.

At least that is my understanding.
Scott Fisher is offline  
Old 11-25-2005, 03:33 PM
  #2643  
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
 
Aaron Waldron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 3,720
Default

Scott - I understand your point completely..Adam and I argued that to the death.

More anti-squat makes the car want to wheelie more. If you think about it, having more forward bite AND more on-power steering from the same adjustment would be kinda tough
Aaron Waldron is offline  
Old 11-25-2005, 04:56 PM
  #2644  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 4,166
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Aaron:

I don't agree with you on these, as I think less anti squat gives less on power steering and vice versa. Maybe that is why I race onroad now.
Scott Fisher is offline  
Old 11-25-2005, 09:39 PM
  #2645  
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
 
Aaron Waldron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 3,720
Default

I can understand that not being the case in on-road..probably the same for 1/8th scale as well. But I know in 2wd...if the front tires aren't touching the ground, it's not gonna turn!
Aaron Waldron is offline  
Old 11-26-2005, 05:15 AM
  #2646  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
 
nudge2325's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Brisbane QLD
Posts: 787
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default XXX Bk2 Questions

Hi Aaron,

Can you please give me some pointers on how to improve the front end grip on a BK2.

The car has an aluminium front bulkhead, and also aluminium rear hub carriers.

The tracks i race on over here at the moment are very loose sandy surfaces which makes turning the car even harder.

I have 3/4 ounce of lead weight inside the front bulkhead to try to get more steering out of it but it doesnt seem to be helping.

What i need is some suspension settings to try to help it steer.

It has trouble with on power steering mainly and it seems to just skip forward instead of turning.

Thanks in advance
nudge2325 is offline  
Old 11-26-2005, 11:20 AM
  #2647  
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
 
Aaron Waldron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 3,720
Default

Try messing with anti-squat..does your buggy wheelie really bad? If it does, try less anti-squat (or even pro-squat) to help keep the front tires on the ground.

Try long arm front and rear. What setup are you currently running?
Aaron Waldron is offline  
Old 11-26-2005, 05:31 PM
  #2648  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
 
mafiaracers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: West Linn, Oregon
Posts: 3,759
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Aaron...

is it cool to post this link? sorry....delete it if not....

Thanks...

Me in my dad's 350Z. Roads in my area. Got it past 130 and change, but road and memory card ended so....anyway, enjoy...
http://media.putfile.com/Nissan350Z124MPH
mafiaracers is offline  
Old 11-27-2005, 01:02 AM
  #2649  
Tech Master
 
Team Duratrax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NSW, Albury/Wodonga
Posts: 1,674
Default

Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Try messing with anti-squat..does your buggy wheelie really bad? If it does, try less anti-squat (or even pro-squat) to help keep the front tires on the ground.

Try long arm front and rear. What setup are you currently running?
Where do you adjust the anti-squat? I've never known that one.
Team Duratrax is offline  
Old 11-27-2005, 01:46 AM
  #2650  
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
 
Aaron Waldron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 3,720
Default

On Losi off-road cars, it's the spacers under the pivot block (the front or the rear) that change the angle of the pivot block in relation to the chassis.

For many 1/8th scale buggies, it's the actual pivot blocks themselves that are changed. It depends on the car.
Aaron Waldron is offline  
Old 11-27-2005, 02:50 AM
  #2651  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
 
nudge2325's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Brisbane QLD
Posts: 787
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Try messing with anti-squat..does your buggy wheelie really bad? If it does, try less anti-squat (or even pro-squat) to help keep the front tires on the ground.

Try long arm front and rear. What setup are you currently running?
It would possibily wheelie if i could get enough traction.

Current setup is

Front.
Centre hole with 1 washer on inside.
Outside hole on outside no washers.
Long arms.
Silver springs unsure of oil weight as i got the car second hand.
Outside top and inside bottom for shock.
Losi A7202 tyres.

Rear.
Inside hole on inside mount.
Outside hole with 2 washers on Trinity Aluminium rear hub carriers.
Short arms.
Red springs unsure of oil weight as i got the car second hand.
Hole 2 on rear tower and centre hole on the bottom.

I also have 3/4oz of lead weight inside the aluminium front bulkhead.

It is also running anitsquat at the moment but i need to take the back end apart to determine the exact amount.

Please give me some pointers as to what i need to change to give me the steering traction i need.

Thanks in advance
nudge2325 is offline  
Old 11-27-2005, 11:46 AM
  #2652  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 316
Default

Hi AAron, I am in need of a setup for SRS with a XXXBK2. Can you please post one for me or tell me what page it's on?

Thank you,
C.J. Stevens
Charles is offline  
Old 11-27-2005, 11:58 AM
  #2653  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 256
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Try messing with anti-squat..does your buggy wheelie really bad? If it does, try less anti-squat (or even pro-squat) to help keep the front tires on the ground.

Try long arm front and rear. What setup are you currently running?
Aaron, when you mention Pro-Squat. You are adding zero spacers in the front of the rear arms and adding, I would guess ballstud washers under the rear alluminum block? If you are using something else other than ballstud washers could you post that. Also, how many do you use for the "squat"? Thanks Aaron.
Stefan Millay is offline  
Old 11-27-2005, 12:47 PM
  #2654  
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
 
Aaron Waldron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 3,720
Default

Stefan - The washers are .040..when you buy the pivot blocks, the little washers come with it. The stock blocks have 0 degrees (no shims).

nudge - Take all the anti-squat washers out of your car and try that. If you still need more, try adding a washer under the rear block.

CJ Stevens - I haven't been to SRS in a couple years and I'm not sure what everyone is running out there. I'd talk to Casey Peck or Mac Mitchell and see what they're running.
Aaron Waldron is offline  
Old 11-27-2005, 01:55 PM
  #2655  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 256
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

[QUOTE=Aaron Waldron]Stefan - The washers are .040..when you buy the pivot blocks, the little washers come with it. The stock blocks have 0 degrees (no shims).

So you have to buy a special pivot block to run the pro-squat. You cant run the stock BK2 block and add washer(s) to the rear of it?
Stefan Millay is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.