Sofast-NT

Call'em.

Rysuleod

iTrader: (1)

I have an easy question. I noticed that the universal pieces for the BK2 in the pictures on both teamlosi.com and horizonhobby.com do not show the ball joint. Do we have to buy the ball joint seperately?

Page with part numbers

MF2 cross piece included here with MF2 size shafts

BK2 part does not show cross piece in pic

Can someone list out the exact part number's I'd need if they have time please?

Thanks!

Aaron Waldron

SoFast - Not really..just regular attention and loctite. Try a longer screw, but it might hit the bearing if you use the upper holes.

John - I'd call them in the morning..I'm sure they probably took quite a bit of time off last month.

A-3027 is the part number for the new rebuildable balls. The MF2 axles are a separate part number, the Horizon picture is just confusing.

A-3031 is the axle. A-3089 is the dogbone and yoke for the BK2.

mgtman

hey arron just picked up a hyper 7 pcr with a p5 in it 2 speed and dual disk brakes it flies wondering what spare parts should i get the most and do you know of any set ups for my baby

Aaron Waldron

I'm not sure of any setups for it..but I know there are some Hyper 7 owners on the 1/8th scale buggy threads here that should be able to point you in the right direction.

The PCR car comes pretty well equipped for racing as it is; anything else you add is eye candy. Spare parts shouldn't really be a problem unless you plan on crashing!

mgtman

cool thanks for the help Aaron

Rysuleod

iTrader: (1)

Okay so to build a complete set of universals I would need these right? :
1x A-3027 Rebuildable ball 6.00
2x A-3031 Axle 6.00
2x A-3089 Steel Shaft and Yoke 7.00

Or will I need 2 rebuildable balls? <insert Beavis and Butthead joke here huh huh>

Thanks for the help Aaron. Losi and Horizon certainly make things difficult on the consumer when buying extra parts. The web site has zero description, we just get a little picture.

cmain

iTrader: (23)

this is josh wheelers setup that was posted by dave wheeler on the starting grid. I don't think he runs the pcr but setups should be simmalar.

Front suspension
toe angle o
ride height little above level using the dog bones
rebound height full travel
caster 22 degree
sway bar 2.5
shock tower top hole 2
upper arm hole 2
shock bottom inside hole
ackerman arm B hole

I run the sway bar pretty loose
0 degree camber
blue springs
1.4 pistons 60 weight
diff spider 2000 75 full

center diff 7000 standard

Rear of car

3 degree toe in
ride height a little above level
camber 2 degree
rebound full travel
sway bar 2.8 tight
shock tower top 5 hole
shock bottom inside hole
upper arm inner 2 hole
upper arm outer 2 hole
run a short chassic with spacers in the rear to be as short as
possible (Good rear bite )
wing flat
diff 3000 standard

The key I think to the progress we have made is we have installed aluminun dog boned center and rear
That seemed to make the car more responsive. This buggy has great steering and awesome rear bite on a loose track. I think we got the best rear bite of any car and still no push Let your sway bars work, move them around based on traction If you let the car roll then the sway bars kick in and the car squats real good and becomes extremely stable in the turns This set up works with Josh and Justin, I do not know if all driving styles will like it Go for it.

GregH

that will be the last set-up from the Wheeler's and Ofna. They signed on to XRay.

bigl

iTrader: (51)

Aaron what tires do you run at titus for truck and buggy front and rear

mgtman

thanks cmain ill try that one the p5 is giving me a little trouble yesterday it was screaming like a jet real fast and today since its a little moggy it seamed to sputter could it be that i didnt have it in the house and the buggy was in the garage it was a little cold read some things that i should warm it up with a heat gun or blow drier or should i let it idle for a little to warm up and for how long im decent at tuning but its my first buggy and towards the end after like 4-5 minutes it took of like a bat at of hell is there a certeain temp i should reach idling or warming up this engine is still running a little cold i think about 160-180

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Running 160-180 sounds a little cold to me, but if ya like the performance there, nothing wrong with that. As far as warming it up just run it around for a bit. Don't have to beat on it, or take it to easy. Just make sure it's fully warmed up before you begin tuning in the carb. As far as using hairdryers that's for a motor with a ton of pinch that won't roll over very easy when it's to cold.

mgtman

how long does it take to warm up is 5 to 10 minutes unusall

mgtman

cause it was sputtering a little today should i lean it out a little and which needle first the low or the high im not touching the middle one its flush or does sputtering mean its to lean

Casper

iTrader: (34)

3-4 laps it is usually up to temp. Do not tune the engine to start good. Just make sure it will stay fired to get that first lap in and as soon as it heats up tune from there. The only time I tune without it at temp is when it will not start!