The Pope NJ

iTrader: (1)

Looking to get into 1/12 scale carpet racing. Been looking at cars but don't know what to get. Maybe the TA 12r5.1 or HB x12 don't know any advice?

Think I will go with the tekin rs pro with 17.5 motor. I am running other tekin stuff and love it.

What batts are good and so forth and so on.

JoeD.

iTrader: (2)

There are tons of different makes of cars out there but one of the most important things to consider is the availability of parts. Personally I drive a BMI DB12RR and really like the car. Its a pretty simple costruction and the quality is comparable to xray. I use the tekin rs/ 13.5/ one cell lipo with novak power booster in my car and it is wicked fast.
Typically the cost on a new kit is near $250 to $300 but you can find used rollers for around $150. Good luck in your search, 12 scale is one of my favourite classes.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Are you going to be using 1S Lipo or 4 cell NiMH?

If it's Lipo then a link car will work better since they are made for 1S lipos.

If it's NiMH then you can choose either link or T-Plate.

Sorry about the general answer but you sort of asked a general question. There are many options out there but you need to refine your search.

I use the AE 12R5.1 and like it with 1S, Tekin RS/13.5 and a Trinity LiFe RX pack. Others at the track use CRC with Lipo RX packs and regulators or Boosters.

The Pope NJ

iTrader: (1)

I will use NIMH packs. a bit cheaper.

I ask general questions because I know very little to start with. Parts support doesnt' matter as I will order my stuff off the web. As long as it is avalible on the internets it is fine.

PDX-Spike

[QUOTE=The Pope NJ;7107688...Think I will go with the tekin rs pro with 17.5 motor. I am running other tekin stuff and love it. [/QUOTE]

Since you're using a 17.5 motor (or any motor above 5.5), you don't need the Tekin RS Pro. If you tested the RS against the RS Pro, you would not be able to tell the difference. You'll only be wasting money and adding unnecessary weight to the car.

Danny-b23

iTrader: (3)

I would go with the Associated R5.1, and get an RS instead on an RS Pro. The Hot Bodies doesn't have as much support for set-ups as the AE does. For cells, I would go with the SMC Ener-G 4600 cells. They're a really stable cell, and are very long lasting.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

I also recomend the BMI car, very easy to drive and a new version is going to be released very soon; check the BMI thread for details on the new copperhead car. Just a thought, you might want to check your local track/tracks to see what batts are being used. As 1/12 has gone to lipo at many tracks you might not have a class/place to run a car with nimh cells. There are both brick packs and the brand new saddle pack 1s lipo so you can run T-bar or link cars with lipo these days.

InspGadgt

I would urge you to reconsider if the track you will race at allows LiPo and the majority of racers are using it. The price difference between a good NiMh pack and a 1 cell LiPo pack is less than $10. With NiMh packs you'll need to put a lot more time in caring and maintaining the packs than you will with the LiPo. Not to mention the extra bulky equipment of the cell equalizer (Not needed but highly reccomended).

hotdognobun

iTrader: (32)

If you are getting an 12r5.1 just get the Xray XII LINK type. Its a little pricey but quality is far better than AE who lately merged with thunger tiger and I been finding some flaws in all of my latest AE kits. I Might sell my 12r5 converted to 5.1. It has the yokomo brace hop ups and full tamiya blue screws

The Pope NJ

iTrader: (1)

everyone at the local track is running IB 4600 batts. I can run lipo with them if I want. I was looking at the xray car and like that alot. I have till fall to figure it all out.

And what is the diffrence between the rs pro and rs?

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

The RS Pro has 48 FETs, the RS has 24. Unless you plan on running modified, the RS would be the best bet for a 1/12 scale car.

When choosing a chassis, keep in mind that most carpet tracks are running LiPo - based 1/12 classes. If you choose a car that is capable of accepting either type of battery, you'll have a car you could race anywhere. That being said, any of the link suspension cars (AE, CRC, SpeedMerchant, XRay, Serpent, etc.) would work well, or you could choose the BMI 12RR, which combines the qualities of a pivot link and a t-bar suspension.

PDX-Spike

1. RS Pro costs more than an RS. (for example, + $50 thru Stormer Hobbies)
2. RS Pro case is larger than an RS.
3. RS Pro is heavier than an RS.
4. RS Pro has twice as many FET's than an RS.

Try this link: RS & RS Pro Info

The bottom line is you will not be able to tell the difference in performance UNLESS you are using a MOD brushless motor with 5.5 turns or less.

The Pope NJ

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the link. I think I will get the pro just so I have the options. I will most likely start with a cheep brushed set up that I already have. Lord knows my driving is going to need to improve alot before having the extra power is even going to matter. I will most likely get some batts from smc though to start.

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

Just a warning about using the RS Pro in a 1/12. It's taller than the RS and may interfere with the body or will force you to locate it in a spot you don't want. I had a problem with my RS and sent it in to Tekin, I put my Pro in on my 12R5.1 with the AMR body only to find that it pushed the body up. I had to relocate the capacitor and resolder the wires for the body to sit correctly.

Didn't have that problem with the RS and it's just as fast. Care to buy an LRP 4.5 I haven't used in a couple years?

Lee_123

If you go with a LiPO you will need to do something about receiver power. About half of the people at the track I run at have a seperate reciever battery the other half run a booster of some sort.

I have been running 4 cell with a brushed motor and just bought a LiPo and the new Novak Havoc 1s controller/motor combo. The controller has a big foot print and the receiver plug sits high. I couldn't get it to sit well in my 1/12th BMI car (body clearence vs wire routing problems) so I put it in my 1/10th pan car and am looking for an alternative for my 1/12th.

Just another something for you to think about.