Sealing carb and backplate?
02-09-2010, 11:57 AM
#33
You mean the orange colored Permatex Ultra Copper #101BR this is nitro
proof (safe) it will not dissolve like other RTV's. R/C Nitro Magazine recommended it's use to seal nitro engines years ago. (ask Steve P)
Lucky 7 is probably a great product, but I'm a "old schooler" I don't mind
disassembling an engine and applying the sealer by hand.
proof (safe) it will not dissolve like other RTV's. R/C Nitro Magazine recommended it's use to seal nitro engines years ago. (ask Steve P)
Lucky 7 is probably a great product, but I'm a "old schooler" I don't mind
disassembling an engine and applying the sealer by hand.
02-09-2010, 02:09 PM
#34
You mean the orange colored Permatex Ultra Copper #101BR this is nitro
proof (safe) it will not dissolve like other RTV's. R/C Nitro Magazine recommended it's use to seal nitro engines years ago. (ask Steve P)
Lucky 7 is probably a great product, but I'm a "old schooler" I don't mind
disassembling an engine and applying the sealer by hand.
proof (safe) it will not dissolve like other RTV's. R/C Nitro Magazine recommended it's use to seal nitro engines years ago. (ask Steve P)
Lucky 7 is probably a great product, but I'm a "old schooler" I don't mind
disassembling an engine and applying the sealer by hand.
permatex does not have a Single product in their line up that is Nitro proof ( ask a rep )....it may be nitro resistant but in the application of thin layer's it WILL fail....Three bond 1211, Racers Edge carb sealant or Lucky 7 are 10000X better products and do the intended job.
02-09-2010, 02:27 PM
#35
i used the cooper orange rtv sealent,,, on my engine and never had any fuel leak out or anything like that.
03-28-2010, 12:34 AM
#37
Tech Regular
Ive never needed to seal a backplate unless the oring was damaged or the wrong size... I usually only do the pinch-bolt and sometimes around the carb boot. But any sealant will hurt more than help if applied incorrectly.
Lucky 7 is thin enough you can drop it in the seam you want to seal and "walk" it around like gluing tires.... when I watched that vid of Waldork and Bess putting it underneath the carb I had to laugh, the sealant had to be around the crank and bearings by the time they got it back in a car
I believe Racers Choice and Lucky 7 are the same stuff.... if not its very close. So dont do it like in the vid
Lucky 7 is thin enough you can drop it in the seam you want to seal and "walk" it around like gluing tires.... when I watched that vid of Waldork and Bess putting it underneath the carb I had to laugh, the sealant had to be around the crank and bearings by the time they got it back in a car
I believe Racers Choice and Lucky 7 are the same stuff.... if not its very close. So dont do it like in the vid
Just FYI the sealant I use has never wicked into the engine. When I apply it to the carb neck and push the carb into the block, the sealant collects around the o-ring area below the carb body and above the engine block, making a nice ring of sealant that wicks and cures where I want it. I've only done about 100 engines this way and never had one engine w/sealant inside. Sorry you're misinformed. The Racers Choice sealant I use is thick, almost like toothpaste. From what I understand the Lucky 7 is watery and very thin, not the same stuff I use. Glad you got a laugh...guess you're laughing at yourself now.
04-02-2010, 12:30 AM
#39
Tech Regular
Because sealing protects from imperfections in the carb & block that can cause leaks. Torn o-rings can happen any time (though rarely) and sealant is just a simple precaution against the unforseen.
04-02-2010, 08:38 AM
#41
i don't feel the need to seal my engine anymore. As long as you bolt it up properly and orings, bearings, carb boot etc, you will never have a problem. I have had engine sealant find it's way into the engine before. Probably my bad, but don't ever want to take the risk again. And that was only puting the sealant on the outside of the engine parts.
and i never get a air leak. If you know how to tighten bolts in the proper order and tighten all bolts especially the pinch bolt with the proper torque you should not get a airleak.
it would be cool if they made a torque allen wrench for our little engines
and i never get a air leak. If you know how to tighten bolts in the proper order and tighten all bolts especially the pinch bolt with the proper torque you should not get a airleak.
it would be cool if they made a torque allen wrench for our little engines
04-02-2010, 08:53 AM
#42
04-02-2010, 08:59 AM
#43
i don't feel the need to seal my engine anymore. As long as you bolt it up properly and orings, bearings, carb boot etc, you will never have a problem. I have had engine sealant find it's way into the engine before. Probably my bad, but don't ever want to take the risk again. And that was only puting the sealant on the outside of the engine parts.
and i never get a air leak. If you know how to tighten bolts in the proper order and tighten all bolts especially the pinch bolt with the proper torque you should not get a airleak.
it would be cool if they made a torque allen wrench for our little engines
and i never get a air leak. If you know how to tighten bolts in the proper order and tighten all bolts especially the pinch bolt with the proper torque you should not get a airleak.
it would be cool if they made a torque allen wrench for our little engines
Sealing engines is sometimes a must....with the attitude of never sealing an engine your going to find many days your having unexplained tuning issues.... I have been running nitro since the mid 80's and I feel strongly that engines should be sealed......
04-02-2010, 09:45 AM
#44
04-02-2010, 09:50 AM
#45