XXX-S Tips and Talk for Stock Classes
#136
Tech Initiate
Going to be running some VTA outdoors this summer. Will be on an un-prepped, old, dusty asphalt parking lot. I'm used to racing this car on a tight, high grip carpet track. At best, I think it will be swept...thats about it.
Are there any set-up sheets on the Losi site you guys could recommend as a good base line for this type of track?
There will only be 4 races this summer without any practice...anything to get ahead of the game will help! Thanks!
Evoracer, what type of track will you be running VTA on?
Are there any set-up sheets on the Losi site you guys could recommend as a good base line for this type of track?
There will only be 4 races this summer without any practice...anything to get ahead of the game will help! Thanks!
Evoracer, what type of track will you be running VTA on?
#137
This the one I'm using on our concrete surface. No compounds and just blown off with the leaf blower. It may help on your loose track.
http://www.losiboard.com/pdf/xxx-s_view.pdf
http://www.losiboard.com/pdf/xxx-s_view.pdf
#139
Sorry guys...I didnt notice the data on this pdf could not be saved and thus only shows up as a blank setup sheet.
Heres the link to the losi board page. Check out John Chen's concrete setup and all the rest for that matter. I have printed copies of all of them even though most of my racing is on our home track concrete parking lot.
http://www.losiboard.com/onroad.html
Heres the link to the losi board page. Check out John Chen's concrete setup and all the rest for that matter. I have printed copies of all of them even though most of my racing is on our home track concrete parking lot.
http://www.losiboard.com/onroad.html
#140
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
A couple weeks ago I got to drive a XXX-S, Paraletic's car to be exact, and I've got to admit it was a very nice car to drive. Beside's having a bit of understeer compared to what I'm used I could drive it as well as my TC5.
I can definitely understand why you guys are still using this car, this car must've dominated when it was new considering how well they are still seem being quite competitive against the modern TC's.
I can definitely understand why you guys are still using this car, this car must've dominated when it was new considering how well they are still seem being quite competitive against the modern TC's.
#141
Hmmm....you know..I wasn't driving the car back when it was 1 of the top dogs. I'm really not familiar with it's record of wins. Maybe somebody out there knows more ??!!
What I do know is that the car is still very good. Simple, durable,functional....what more do you need.
What I do know is that the car is still very good. Simple, durable,functional....what more do you need.
#142
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
Hey guys,
I also run te XXX-S up here in North Dakota for VTA. It is competitive with Corally an X-Ray cars and I only paid $40 for the roller. We race on carpet up here and the only problem I had with the car was traction roll when the tires get to bald but that happens with all of them.
I also run te XXX-S up here in North Dakota for VTA. It is competitive with Corally an X-Ray cars and I only paid $40 for the roller. We race on carpet up here and the only problem I had with the car was traction roll when the tires get to bald but that happens with all of them.
#143
Hey guys,
I also run te XXX-S up here in North Dakota for VTA. It is competitive with Corally an X-Ray cars and I only paid $40 for the roller. We race on carpet up here and the only problem I had with the car was traction roll when the tires get to bald but that happens with all of them.
I also run te XXX-S up here in North Dakota for VTA. It is competitive with Corally an X-Ray cars and I only paid $40 for the roller. We race on carpet up here and the only problem I had with the car was traction roll when the tires get to bald but that happens with all of them.
When those tires get bald and the tire starts rolling on itself all hell breaks loose, but it seems the tires are alway at thier best about 5 races right before they go
#144
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
Ran the xxxs on the weekend performed great up til the first final
when the siren went I hit the gas- only to snap a front axle shaft clean off where it joins the dog bone, resulting in nothin but uncontrolled dohnuts and spins. Bugga lol
So early retirement for me, but managed to hav it fixed b4 my race was finished, so I was ready for the last final
from 5th on the grid I managed 2nd in the last final which I'm pretty chuffed about
so the old girl still has it to compete with the newer chassis like t3's an 009's and tc5's etc
when the siren went I hit the gas- only to snap a front axle shaft clean off where it joins the dog bone, resulting in nothin but uncontrolled dohnuts and spins. Bugga lol
So early retirement for me, but managed to hav it fixed b4 my race was finished, so I was ready for the last final
from 5th on the grid I managed 2nd in the last final which I'm pretty chuffed about
so the old girl still has it to compete with the newer chassis like t3's an 009's and tc5's etc
#145
I wish my results were as good as everyone else's. We're in the transition to VTA and I ran the car yesterday with a slightly revised setup. Car was loose in the back...not horribly...but enough that it was controlled drifting on almost every turn. On power through the sweeper was about the best although I had some push but at slower speeds through tight turns you could hear the car sliding and obviously scrubbing off speed.
Any VTA drivers out there can you post your setups for asphalt or concrete parking lot. No traction compound allowed, tight and technical is the norm.
Any VTA drivers out there can you post your setups for asphalt or concrete parking lot. No traction compound allowed, tight and technical is the norm.
#146
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
Our track is very slippery especially yesterday
I swapped out my springs for one rate softer all round an made significant difference to the grip
do you run sway bars?
What roll centres are you running?
I found going to low rear roll centres helped with rear traction quite alot
I swapped out my springs for one rate softer all round an made significant difference to the grip
do you run sway bars?
What roll centres are you running?
I found going to low rear roll centres helped with rear traction quite alot
#147
Hey All, a great website to check out in case you didn't already know.
http://www.stranahan-rc.com/index.html
Check out John's tuning section for some really helpful info.
Paraletic...I know you've already seen it. Thanks for the tuning info Rob. The setup I've been using as a guide is the concrete setup by John Chen on Losi Board.com. I've been using High centers front and back but after briefly reading John's info and your suggestion....I think I'll try low center in the back. That may also help another problem. With soft springs(10.5-15 pound range), 50w oil,no sway bars....I'm getting some scraping on my motor. This would indicate excessive roll BUT....the high roll center with the lightly sprung suspension could be part of the problem. Are you running low centers back and front ??
I think I'll spend some time on John's site. Much to learn from the Guru !
BTW, just scored 2 TMF1111 motor plate/heatsinks. Definitely shelf queen material.
http://www.stranahan-rc.com/index.html
Check out John's tuning section for some really helpful info.
Paraletic...I know you've already seen it. Thanks for the tuning info Rob. The setup I've been using as a guide is the concrete setup by John Chen on Losi Board.com. I've been using High centers front and back but after briefly reading John's info and your suggestion....I think I'll try low center in the back. That may also help another problem. With soft springs(10.5-15 pound range), 50w oil,no sway bars....I'm getting some scraping on my motor. This would indicate excessive roll BUT....the high roll center with the lightly sprung suspension could be part of the problem. Are you running low centers back and front ??
I think I'll spend some time on John's site. Much to learn from the Guru !
BTW, just scored 2 TMF1111 motor plate/heatsinks. Definitely shelf queen material.
#148
I'm still running carpet VTA and when I first got into it (fall of 08) every one said keep it soft, that has held up pretty much since. I'm running pinks & silvers on ozite so I would think that would carry over to blackktop. The other thing I might second is to run the front RC one step higher.
#149
I'm still running carpet VTA and when I first got into it (fall of 08) every one said keep it soft, that has held up pretty much since. I'm running pinks & silvers on ozite so I would think that would carry over to blackktop. The other thing I might second is to run the front RC one step higher.
#150
ok, here we go.
Front end:
shocks: silver springs, #56 shocks, 50wt 3rd hole in from outside
camber links:long -inside holes, 4 degree caster
caster:0.0 to 0.5
toe: 0
rc blocks: True low blocks equivalent to the MF ones
pivot block:0R in lower diff holes.Yes the rear one per John's thread, pins are level and parallel. This lower block helped on the tight 180 finger turns and took out some of the shudder when I power through a corner. On a more open track higher block may help out.
Arms: foward
Steering links: forward holes
Rear end:
shocks: pink springs, #56 shocks, 40wt inside holes top & bottom
camber links: long inside holes
caster: 2
toe:1.5 - make it a little twitchy but I did it for a little more straight-a-way speed
rc blocks: MF low blocks
pivot block: 0R in lower diff holes
arms forward
Front Diff: STD -tight
Rear Diff: STD- looseness is determined by corner pivoting. If it seems to push, loosen the rear a little.
I run a GTB with the 21.5/25.5. I run a little drag brake (3) I think.
Ride height 4.5 - 5.0 mm
Hopes this helps
Lots of steering for tight 180 finger turns. I drive it hard, it seems to prefer power more than rolling through a corner, but it my be me.
Front end:
shocks: silver springs, #56 shocks, 50wt 3rd hole in from outside
camber links:long -inside holes, 4 degree caster
caster:0.0 to 0.5
toe: 0
rc blocks: True low blocks equivalent to the MF ones
pivot block:0R in lower diff holes.Yes the rear one per John's thread, pins are level and parallel. This lower block helped on the tight 180 finger turns and took out some of the shudder when I power through a corner. On a more open track higher block may help out.
Arms: foward
Steering links: forward holes
Rear end:
shocks: pink springs, #56 shocks, 40wt inside holes top & bottom
camber links: long inside holes
caster: 2
toe:1.5 - make it a little twitchy but I did it for a little more straight-a-way speed
rc blocks: MF low blocks
pivot block: 0R in lower diff holes
arms forward
Front Diff: STD -tight
Rear Diff: STD- looseness is determined by corner pivoting. If it seems to push, loosen the rear a little.
I run a GTB with the 21.5/25.5. I run a little drag brake (3) I think.
Ride height 4.5 - 5.0 mm
Hopes this helps
Lots of steering for tight 180 finger turns. I drive it hard, it seems to prefer power more than rolling through a corner, but it my be me.