Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks for the info. will definitely need to read more up on RM4.

how much of a power difference did you see you needed to get the same performance between RM3 and RM4 for motor (so for example, RM3 used a 10.5, RM4 for same kind of performance use 8.5)

Devin

This isn't the exact answer you are looking for but here is my experience.

RM3 (gear diff) on a 10.5 was very sketchy on take off, the rear end always wanted to pull out.

RM4 (with stiffer shock oil, also a big difference) I can now reliably take off from a stand still or a low speed corner without spinning out. It was super huge. I am talking like 2.5 seconds a lap (30 to 27.5), I went from back of the B to to mid A times on our loose, large outdoor track.

micholix

Would someone of the new v2 owners be so kind and could give me the max. width of the new chassis incl. the side pots?
Does the width change to the v1?

Thx in advance!
Mike

Dino_D

There is no power loss going from RM3 to RM4. Actually you will be able to plant down more power out of the corners as Devin stated. RM4 advantage is to exit out of the corner harder, so you use it to your benefit to out accelerate your competitors. Sure, RM4 reduces some steering cause you get more rear grip and you need to weight the front down a bit cause the added traction causes the nose to lift. 3 antisquat when grip is good to help with corner rotation, 1.5 when grip is low. Also, I use anywhere from 5 to 20 percent drag brake to help dial in the steering off power that I need, so I don't need to change setup. Also I move the battery pack to the front, and try to achieve a similar weight balance to a MM car. You don't really need the extra weight in the back, as the RM4 already gives you the traction on acceleration.

Here is the link to my setup.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...rtSetup201401/


+1

Dino_D

The chassis is almost identical to the Dimec +8 chassis but with an aluminum main chassis and plastic side pods. Width doesn't change.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks for the setup. For the track you run on, is it used by 1/8 vehicles? The one in question gets really bombed out from them.

Need to see what I got for pistons, maybe cut some more via the blanks.


Another thing, I am looking at trying the LRC RR hangars and trying to decide between the durango piece and the one from exotek. the big thing I am curious about is for the durango piece, I don't see where you need to use a special RF hangar, but exotek is saying you need there RF hangar.

has anyone used the Exotek one with the stock durango RF hangars like the 210v2 shows in the manual, plastic, with any issues?


For the rear chassis brace set, Type B, two questions:

Can I just drill out a Type "A" top piece to have screws go "downward" so if I want to do inline again its easy to remove, or is it more to it than that?

Lastly, for part number TDR320270-5 as listed in the DEX210V2 manual (assuming same in the V1 too, just have V2 up right now), the post that goes between the top plate and chassis I am not seeing as part of the images shown for the part bag its listed with:



Where do you get this part from as I am missing one of these? I had to make up a spacer to do the same thing.

micholix

Hello Dino,

Thanks for the fast answer!
I much appreciate that!

I hade some differences, because my original v1 aluminum chassis with the side pots have got about 134 mm, and a file from a protecting sheet i've got, has a width of 145 mm, with the same length!?
As i have to buy a new chassis, because my aluminum one is bendet at the kickup, i desided to make my own, but in +8 and with the outlines of the v2.
The car reactes every time wired in some sections and after i disasambled the complete car, i saw the bend!
It was from the beginning i've got the car and it must be from the preowner?

Thanky again and many greatings from europe
Mike

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

TD320269 is the one I think your looking for.

Azagar

iTrader: (7)

You don't even need to run the two screws from the top, just use your v1 brace and remove the two countersunk screws that go underneath that hold the two pieces together. That's how I always ran mine before and never had any issues.

Lastly the two post come from this part tree.

Dino_D

[QUOTE=Cain;13279268]Thanks for the setup. For the track you run on, is it used by 1/8 vehicles? The one in question gets really bombed out from them.

No its not used by 1/8th, but it goes from med to high grip when wet (where people can use Mid motor car) to dry and blown out. So we used a setup that was remained fairly consistent. Even sometimes it can go from Med grip to low grip within a heat or final. So the car needs to have a suspension and weight distribution package that remains stable.

I don't use the LRC hangers. I find the LRC gives you more grip coming into a corner, and thru mid corner, but less grip coming out of a corner.
This is great on astro, carpet, or high grip or sugar tracks. But if grip is low, it punishes you if you get on the throttle too hard on exit as you can loop the car. The whole RM4 is to allow you to be able to exit the corner much harder than others, so the HRC or standard plastic rear block is used in conjunction with it to allow this to happen. If you use LRC, the setup needs to be changed. I think the inclusion of the LRC block in the newer kits is because a majority of the big races now a days is being run on sugared high grip tracks, and a lot of tracks are following that route. If you are running on a low bite surface. Use back the plastic block or the standard +0 block. Not the -2 rear block.

For the rear chassis brace set, Type B, two questions:

Yes, its possible. But if you change to the type B gearbox, you need the type B side brace or you need to trim a lot of the plastic to get it to work. As the side brace in RM doesn't attach to the gearbox anymore. Only the top brace is attached to the gearbox.

Dino_D

the v1 chassis is slightly narrower, and it doesn't have the flairs on the sides of the car near where the servo mounts.

CaseyDDR

iTrader: (57)

So because of Cain, I have a DEX210v2 in my cart on Tower. Are there any immediate upgrades I should include to the purchase? And is there a mid motor conversion? Our buggies run first at our track after a fresh watering (as he has said) so I'm on the verge of jus going mid motor to take advantage of the massive amounts of traction we get from that.

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

Got some B5 axles and DEST/SC210 steering blocks. A 3x8mm screw, 5x10 brgs, and bam, instant 12mm conversion. It's so friggin simple I didn't bother taking pictures.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

If it is that simple I guess I'm placing my order for the new buggy on our hobby shops GP order. Damn this is what I was waiting for before I pulled the trigger on the new V2. Did you use the B5 axles with the built in hex or the optional B5 axle?

CaseyDDR

iTrader: (57)

Could you include part numbers? I'm about to checkout of Towerhobbies with my DEX buggy kit