Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks for the info.

Parts ordered.

the springs I have man it can be hard to tell what is what from the wear. haven't heard anything more for the previous owner of the vehicle on the springs shown unfortunately so ordered some new ones.

pricewise the durangos aren't too bad, was originally going to go cheap with "AE" springs but these seemed reasonable.

Now just need a tip on where to put the battery for a full size battery pack when using a dimeC chassis and RM configuration. Its a big pack, 7200mah but mainly for my daughter to have runtime and some extra heft.

I am going to try some shorties I got coming in for my vehicle.

Lastly, do you guys run any weight up front in that open section by the servo when in RM?

and I also have the alloy bulkhead I can put in too, though not sure if it needs to be modded for the dime chassis have to look again.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Yeah, the LRC block is an interesting one. I agree, dropping the mount is kind of the same as raising the link for the suspension geometry. But what about the suspensions placement now?
Didn't that effectively raise all of the stuff bolted to the chassis higher raising where the weight is (like you said) and promoting more chassis roll?

I have not run one yet, someone is making LRC pills for the Tekno mounts but I haven't botherd with it as I am not hunting for more traction.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

Im now using the v2 rear shock tower and arms with the shocks mounted on the back in a mm4 config for racing on carpet mainly so i can get to the pinion/spur without removing the shock my guestion is will i experience anything handling wise compared to front mounted shocks?

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

Some people would swear that you will. You'll hear statements like, "It handles bumps better" or "It really locks the rear end down in corners" and other statements like that. The only thing moving the shocks will do is change weight distribution at the rear. You have more weight behind the axles with the shocks rearwards and more weight central with them in front. Each position has the exact same leverage on the arm.

Dino_D

Normally on RM we run it full forward. The more you have it towards the back, the more it wants to swing around in turns. Full pack makes the car slower to react and easier but lazier to drive.

Shorty packs will make it more responsive. Again shortly full forward with RM config.

I run between 30g-42g of weight behind the servo. If you have the alloy bulkhead. You won't need so much behind the servo. 15g-30g depending.

snowman_evil

iTrader: (30)

Thanks Fellas,

I'll give sanding the spacer down a go and see if it helps. I don't think it's an issue of the screws holding the motor plate on or even the screws holding the gearbox casing together because I have them just snug not over tightened at all and the binding comes before I even put the screws in. If I put the gearbox assembly together and just hold the casing together with my hand even softly it will bind then I think it's just slightly more exaggerated once the screws are holding it together slightly tighter then when I am holding it by hand.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks for the info.

Does anyone have a link to a circlip pliers that will work for the diff? would like to order but not sure of one that is "right" to use.

Lone Star

iTrader: (3)

Go to sears. They have a cheap set of two sizes, one is about 5" and one is about 7". The smaller one fits perf. The are the simple black stamped sheet metal ones with red grips. No need to get fancy with these, its a circlip, not a hex wrench.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

Ok so would i have more steering with the shocks in the front then? It certainly felt like i had more of a push with it the otherway, i only traction rolled once and i was pushing the car pretty hard in the corners.

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

What do you guys like to use for diff balls? I'm approaching a diff rebuild and thinking of picking up something harder than the stock steel balls. Ideally I'd like a ball hard enough that all the wear occurs on the rings. That way all I have to do for a rebuild is sand smooth the rings and reuse the balls.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

No you won't necessarily have more steering. What I'm getting at is that the only effect moving the shocks will have is based on what effect moving that weight will have.

goszu

That sounds strange.
Maybe you have bent diff or warped gears ?

snowman_evil

iTrader: (30)

I believe it's a warped main gear on the gear diff being slightly off and not moulded correctly from factory I have tried brand new never used ones from other kits built from factory suffering the exact same fault. I will order a new gear and test to see if that is indeed the problem but at this point in time that's what I believe it will be. Aswell if that is the fault and I recieve another gear from that batch of bad ones it will obviously do the same thing so fingers crossed I get a corrected one if that is the issue!

Devin

Just bought a used roller and switched it to RM4 for use on a loose track. The anti-squat in the rear is at the max angle. What would be a good starting point for this on a large, high-speed not very technical outdoor dirt track?

Realized I have no idea what anti-squat does and it was used for indoor clay previously so it may be set-up totally wrong for me.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks, pretty much seeing online the $20+ range here, so will have to see if something in the store is cheaper.