80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
04-05-2014, 05:57 PM
RTR kits comes with 6 hole pistons. Im not a fan of 6th hole pistons, if you check on pro drivers setups they never run them. The new set ups they have posted for the v2 are the type b pistons. 3 holes not sure the sizes off hand if you check durangos site you will see them in setups.
As for anti squat I saw in the last page if your track has traction and has high speed sweepers. LRC will be way better then 0 anti squat all the pros ever run is LRC now. If there isn't a lot of traction HRC may be better.
As for anti squat I saw in the last page if your track has traction and has high speed sweepers. LRC will be way better then 0 anti squat all the pros ever run is LRC now. If there isn't a lot of traction HRC may be better.
04-05-2014, 06:08 PM
I've been racing my V2 for about a month now. My set up is nearly identical to my V1 with the exception of a spring change in front. I'm also running the plastic chassis as the 17.5 class is what everyone is racing at my local track right now. The platform is super easy to drive and predictable to push. The changes made to the front end keep the arms from digging. The chassis bracing has been changed to get the motor and trans in and out easily. The rear arms have holes for the shocks to be run in front or back of the arms. Funny how all the guys who think the Durango is a sub par platform are hanging out at my pit examining the buggy because they are getting beat. This is an excellent durable buggy that I would highly recommend to anyone considering buying one.
04-05-2014, 07:50 PM
Thats good to hear. Im coming from 3 yrs of AE ending with a b4.2. Our track is a blownout 1/8 scale, extremely loose clay and i want to try the RM4 config. It looks like TD has addressed the weak parts that kept me out of a 210v1, mainly the gearbox link mounts, rear tower and the steering rack. I have a complete album of the local guys working on their 210's while our b4's sat ready to run. They wouldnt run practice laps for fear of breaking before a race. I am still going to brace the rear link mounts as i dont think that the design is as strong as a separate mounting area.
04-05-2014, 08:18 PM
Tech Addict
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I run on a real small carpet track with small jumps. I'm having a problem with it nose diving off of the bigger jump... most people are too.. they say it's the way the jumps are made. the only cars that don't seem to be having the problem are the b5's and SC
I'm running MM4 with battery all the way back.. is there something that I can change to help stop it from nose diving?
I'm running MM4 with battery all the way back.. is there something that I can change to help stop it from nose diving?
04-05-2014, 08:36 PM
I run on a real small carpet track with small jumps. I'm having a problem with it nose diving off of the bigger jump... most people are too.. they say it's the way the jumps are made. the only cars that don't seem to be having the problem are the b5's and SC
I'm running MM4 with battery all the way back.. is there something that I can change to help stop it from nose diving?
I'm running MM4 with battery all the way back.. is there something that I can change to help stop it from nose diving?
04-05-2014, 08:39 PM
Thats good to hear. Im coming from 3 yrs of AE ending with a b4.2. Our track is a blownout 1/8 scale, extremely loose clay and i want to try the RM4 config. It looks like TD has addressed the weak parts that kept me out of a 210v1, mainly the gearbox link mounts, rear tower and the steering rack. I have a complete album of the local guys working on their 210's while our b4's sat ready to run. They wouldnt run practice laps for fear of breaking before a race. I am still going to brace the rear link mounts as i dont think that the design is as strong as a separate mounting area.
04-05-2014, 09:30 PM
Anyone running the 210v2 straight arms on there 210v1 (23mm shock body instead of 21.5mm)
what spring you running up front was going to use the dark blue but the v2 kit says red dark but the setup sheets say black.
Track is dirt running RM3 can be loose and blue groove
what spring you running up front was going to use the dark blue but the v2 kit says red dark but the setup sheets say black.
Track is dirt running RM3 can be loose and blue groove
04-05-2014, 10:05 PM
You're jumping the gun there :P I'll have the front arms on mine once they're available, but I'll also be running the new shock package. The 23mm stroke shocks will have more droop but less up travel, probably not ideal. I'll be converting my v1 to 95% v2 so we'll see how it goes (no ballstuds or outdrives, will probably be running the gear diff or the regular ball diff, we'll see, running an AE diff is still a possibility) I think with the front arms you'll want the new tower and shorter shocks for the complete swap over, they don't just re make parts for the sake of it so I'd do all or nothing.
04-05-2014, 10:12 PM
You're jumping the gun there :P I'll have the front arms on mine once they're available, but I'll also be running the new shock package. The 23mm stroke shocks will have more droop but less up travel, probably not ideal. I'll be converting my v1 to 95% v2 so we'll see how it goes (no ballstuds or outdrives, will probably be running the gear diff or the regular ball diff, we'll see, running an AE diff is still a possibility) I think with the front arms you'll want the new tower and shorter shocks for the complete swap over, they don't just re make parts for the sake of it so I'd do all or nothing.
04-05-2014, 10:21 PM
Dark Blue or Dark Red is pretty stiff. I don't even think any of the pro guys were using that hard in OCRC or at Cactus and even then those were med-high bite tracks.
04-05-2014, 11:14 PM
Had no idea the front shock lost 1.5mm with the v2. Wouldn't it be better to just limit the down travel using one of the rubber shock stoppers inside the shock body, I personally already use 1 in the front and 2 in the rear shocks to limit the up travel. I'd say try out springs in the dark green range. It's the most common choice for rm3, shock length shouldn't change that.
04-05-2014, 11:55 PM
Check V2 210 manual on page 42 and 52,53,54
V1 210 & v3 410 came with Dark Blue fronts in the kit.
04-06-2014, 04:30 AM
Can anyone confirm the parts needed to convert the RTR dex210 to the mid motor configuration. From what the TD website suggests its only 2x idler gears, 1x idler pin, 2x shims and 2x bearings. Is that correct? Nothing else required like extra or different screws etc?
Thank you!!
Thank you!!
04-06-2014, 04:31 AM
Screen shot from the TD website
04-06-2014, 07:04 AM
Thats good to hear. Im coming from 3 yrs of AE ending with a b4.2. Our track is a blownout 1/8 scale, extremely loose clay and i want to try the RM4 config. It looks like TD has addressed the weak parts that kept me out of a 210v1, mainly the gearbox link mounts, rear tower and the steering rack. I have a complete album of the local guys working on their 210's while our b4's sat ready to run. They wouldnt run practice laps for fear of breaking before a race. I am still going to brace the rear link mounts as i dont think that the design is as strong as a separate mounting area.
I wouldn't be too worried about durability.