Lead-Lobber

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Flame. I do have a question, and 867 pages is a LOT to sort through so maybe some help would be nice.
What parts are needed to convert to MM? I didn't get any additional parts with the RTR. I'd like to have a RM and a MM ready for what ever track conditions call for. I will be running outdoor dirt/clay at Hobby Town and a clay (I believe) indoor at Competition Hobbies.

ekt

iTrader: (4)

Since you didn't get any additional parts, here's what you'll need.
BUMPER & REAR TOP DECK SET TD320121 (just for the rear bumper, not necessary)
WING MOUNTS TD320126
REAR CHASSIS BRACE SET TD320127
A couple 8mm and 20mm m3 screws

If you're planning to run MM4, the most common MM setup you'll also need
IDLER GEAR SET TD310238
IDLER GEAR PIN (2pcs) TD310247
SHIM 5x8x0.5mm (10pcs) TD709033
2 5x10x4 bearings

vw addict

iTrader: (38)

Hoping I can get some advice on my mm4 setup. I got the car used and ran it and it hooked up ok. Decided to service the diff, opened it and it was half full of an unknown fluid. I cleaned it out and refilled with 70 weight Losi shock oil which is what I previously had used in another car. Well now the car pushes, on and off power and the rear breaks loose on power. Running on a carpet track, stagger ribs front and mini spike rear. What did I do to the diff to make the change so drastic? Someone at the track suggested 2k diff fluid, is that something I should try? HELP! Lol

Lead-Lobber

iTrader: (1)

Thanks EKT! That is the info I was looking for! The car I just got from Shagino will be coming with the MM parts, but I'll need the screws. SWEET LAWD!!! I can't wait to get this thing out on some sweet jumps... LOL

Walkman

iTrader: (29)

I run mm4 on carpet and use 2,000wgt in the diff and it is dialed. My full setup is on post 12452

vw addict

iTrader: (38)

Cool, I'll check it out, thanks

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

If anyone is looking for a dex210 pm me I have 2 that I am going to be putting up for sale.

syntex1

iTrader: (1)

More pics of my DEX210 during at it's latest race day

LoudOne

iTrader: (36)

Good morning! I'm looking into possibly getting the Exotek +8 carbon chassis and currently have the stock chassis w/ JConcepts "Finnisher" body set up rear motor. Will I have to get a new body to compensate for the +8?

shagino

iTrader: (57)

No. Only the Dimec chassis requires a new body due to shape. With the +8/10/11 using side pods, the shape is the same withheld front being lengthened. The cut outs for the deck bushings will be a bit further back though.

Speed is Key

Hey guys I need help !!! Whats the best 17.5 motor to run stock on a DEX210 on a nice indoor clay track ? Thanks any help is appreciated

Walkman

iTrader: (29)

Trinity Kills Shot, Rev Tech, Reedy Sonic 2, Schuur, Pick any of the big names they are all good. I currently run Trinity motors.

Lead-Lobber

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,
More info please...
I broke the kick up on my one piece chassis. So I ordered a new one online, got it in and swapped all my parts over. When I did so, I noticed a few things.
1, I ordered the B style chassis. Evidently, my parts are not the new B style.
2, The front bulkhead did not sit flush with the bottom of the chassis. The chassis is sitting the thickness of the chassis below the bulkhead. New B style front bulkhead?
3, The rear of the B style chassis does not have the cut out for the rear motor guard. Two options? Dremel the chassis to fit, or is there a new B style motor guard?

Other than that, installing the new Diggity Design shock towers, steering drag link and RDRC shock stand offs went as planned. Just need some pillow balls for the shock caps...

Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Jeff

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Yeah, that was a problem that guys were having with the DIMEC chassis. Some solved it by using skid plates, others used aluminum.

1, I ordered the B style chassis. Evidently, my parts are not the new B style.
- Correct. The front bulkhead/RR hanger/Motor guard all need to new parts to work.

2, The front bulkhead did not sit flush with the bottom of the chassis. The chassis is sitting the thickness of the chassis below the bulkhead. New B style front bulkhead?
- So far only the TD plastic bulkhead works.

3, The rear of the B style chassis does not have the cut out for the rear motor guard. Two options? Dremel the chassis to fit, or is there a new B style motor guard?
- New B style motor guard. Dremeling the chassis will likely bring back the weakness it was meant to solve. A lot of people had breaks on those rear tabs.

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD320227

Lead-Lobber

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info Steve. I clicked the link and then it dawned, that is what they were showing me with the paper that came with the chassis.

Hmmmm.... What to dooooooo. LOL

Know anybody with an aluminum chassis for sale? bwahahahaha.