Durango DEX210 Thread
I intend to run two of the RR blocks, with one in place of the RF block. I've already tried it so I know it fits. This gives zero rear toe, and places the inner hinge pins parallel and equal distance as they are on the front arms. I am going to machine 3 degree inserts for the rear hubs to get toe back. I have never liked the idea of having arms swept forward. From a geometry standpoint this is something that I believe the industry gets wrong.
Originally Posted by DanGriffin
Changing the toe block changes the inboard toe. Increasing inboard toe in general provides more overall traction and makes the car more mechanically stiff. The downside of inboard toe is it can decrease cornerspeed.
Changing the outboard toe (hub carriers) is generally a mechanically softer change, and would be better suited for lots of sweeping corners. It also feels like a more subtle change.
The toe blocks also change the wheelbase of the car more than the hubs.
Changing the toe block changes the inboard toe. Increasing inboard toe in general provides more overall traction and makes the car more mechanically stiff. The downside of inboard toe is it can decrease cornerspeed.
Changing the outboard toe (hub carriers) is generally a mechanically softer change, and would be better suited for lots of sweeping corners. It also feels like a more subtle change.
The toe blocks also change the wheelbase of the car more than the hubs.
Inboard toe-in yields more traction. Outboard toe-in more for higher bite situations where the car needs to rotate more. So your idea is great if you plan on racing on carpet or high grip clay.
Disagree. I've seen that and it's sad that advice like that still gets passed around. It's dead wrong. Of course it makes the car more mechanically stiff. You essentially have a leading arm suspension. That's not a good thing ever on any surface. It certainly doesn't increase traction. If it does then you've got bigger problems and just found a bandaid. Advice like this is usually given by people who also claim that axle plunge gives traction which is again bad geometry and horrible advice. Why people go out of their way to make a suspension system stiffer, but want a chassis that flexes just dumbfounds me.
Tech Master
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Tech Elite
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Yup, just confirmed in the SC thread.
I think I get it now. If you use the plastic black spacers, that's what's really lifting it in the other shim set I saw. The exotek kit doesn't even have the space for it.
I think I get it now. If you use the plastic black spacers, that's what's really lifting it in the other shim set I saw. The exotek kit doesn't even have the space for it.
Last edited by shagino; 11-27-2013 at 05:58 PM.
Ran my 210 for the 3rd time in 17.5 buggy last night and I super happy with the overall handling of my Durango. Funny thing is I put some rear springs on and I thought I had one spring on only to find out I made a huge mistake. That turned out ok as the car worked even better with the wrong springs on the back of the car. Sometimes a little luck pays off as normally and think on any other buggy these springs wouldn't have worked. I'm just going to ride it out and try out at another track and see if the results are the same.
All my new STRC black anodized parts worked great along with the carbon front and rear towers. The new to me tapered Durango pistons really worked out great with the oil and spring combo I'm running. Suspension feels really plush overall and jumps great. Very happy with 210 right now.
All my new STRC black anodized parts worked great along with the carbon front and rear towers. The new to me tapered Durango pistons really worked out great with the oil and spring combo I'm running. Suspension feels really plush overall and jumps great. Very happy with 210 right now.
Tech Elite
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Durango Hop-ups & roller
Selling some Durango hop ups if anyone's interested.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...m-chassis.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...10-hopups.html
Also selling my buggy:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...go-dex210.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...m-chassis.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...10-hopups.html
Also selling my buggy:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...go-dex210.html
Tech Addict
Long ball diff outdrives?
Can someone tell me please, how much longer the long ball diff outdrives (TD310417) are, compared to the orginal ones?
Or does someone have the total length of the complete ball diff, with the longer outdrives?
Thanks in advance and
Or does someone have the total length of the complete ball diff, with the longer outdrives?
Thanks in advance and
Tech Regular
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Each outdrive is 1mm longer.....not much, but it gets the job done
Tech Master
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hey fellas, I an new to this thread but have been running a mid motor on carpet for over a year now!!! I just built a rear motor for clay and had the factory body painted however i used the +8mm chassis and it doesn't fit (life is just soo hard sometimes)!!! Is there anyway i can make it fit?? im about to trim up the chassis... any suggestions first??
Thanx in advance.........
Thanx in advance.........
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
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Car was awesome today. I did try some 25 degree caster blocks I made up. Worked great for me.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
hey fellas, I an new to this thread but have been running a mid motor on carpet for over a year now!!! I just built a rear motor for clay and had the factory body painted however i used the +8mm chassis and it doesn't fit (life is just soo hard sometimes)!!! Is there anyway i can make it fit?? im about to trim up the chassis... any suggestions first??
Thanx in advance.........
Thanx in advance.........
Qualified second and won the main last night for local points series!
Only won because fast guy broke out a few minutes in.
The -2MM block I made was a night and day difference. Was able to power out of corners much sooner than normal and it had just as much steering/rotation as before.
Only won because fast guy broke out a few minutes in.
The -2MM block I made was a night and day difference. Was able to power out of corners much sooner than normal and it had just as much steering/rotation as before.
Tech Regular
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I am looking to get a 2wd buggy and was considering the RTR version of the DEX210. As this thread has over 500 pages I was wondering what you all thought of the ready to run kit? It will take some time to skim all the posts
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Currently live in southern AZ, or closer to northern Mexico if your a realist.
Posts: 37
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Introduction
Hey guys, I would like to introduce myself. My name is Jeff and I live in Tucson, AZ. I picked up a DEX210 RTR from a friend on another forum. I gave that to the wife to drive around with the boys and their SC10s. I'll be racing that soon. Then I bought another buggy from Shagino. That will be my primary race car with the wife's as a back up in the MM configuration.
I got a package in the mail today with some Tresrey goodies: rear camber link plate, 14mm clamping hubs, and 7mm front wheel screws.
Cheers.
Jeff
I got a package in the mail today with some Tresrey goodies: rear camber link plate, 14mm clamping hubs, and 7mm front wheel screws.
Cheers.
Jeff
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (520)
Hey guys, I would like to introduce myself. My name is Jeff and I live in Tucson, AZ. I picked up a DEX210 RTR from a friend on another forum. I gave that to the wife to drive around with the boys and their SC10s. I'll be racing that soon. Then I bought another buggy from Shagino. That will be my primary race car with the wife's as a back up in the MM configuration.
I got a package in the mail today with some Tresrey goodies: rear camber link plate, 14mm clamping hubs, and 7mm front wheel screws.
Cheers.
Jeff
I got a package in the mail today with some Tresrey goodies: rear camber link plate, 14mm clamping hubs, and 7mm front wheel screws.
Cheers.
Jeff