Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Durango DEX210 Thread >

Durango DEX210 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree80Likes

Durango DEX210 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-27-2013, 01:23 PM
  #12991  
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,176
Default

Originally Posted by fredswain
I intend to run two of the RR blocks, with one in place of the RF block. I've already tried it so I know it fits. This gives zero rear toe, and places the inner hinge pins parallel and equal distance as they are on the front arms. I am going to machine 3 degree inserts for the rear hubs to get toe back. I have never liked the idea of having arms swept forward. From a geometry standpoint this is something that I believe the industry gets wrong.
Inboard vs Outboard Toe

Originally Posted by DanGriffin
Changing the toe block changes the inboard toe. Increasing inboard toe in general provides more overall traction and makes the car more mechanically stiff. The downside of inboard toe is it can decrease cornerspeed.
Changing the outboard toe (hub carriers) is generally a mechanically softer change, and would be better suited for lots of sweeping corners. It also feels like a more subtle change.
The toe blocks also change the wheelbase of the car more than the hubs.

Inboard toe-in yields more traction. Outboard toe-in more for higher bite situations where the car needs to rotate more. So your idea is great if you plan on racing on carpet or high grip clay.
Dino_D is offline  
Old 11-27-2013, 02:22 PM
  #12992  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,766
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Disagree. I've seen that and it's sad that advice like that still gets passed around. It's dead wrong. Of course it makes the car more mechanically stiff. You essentially have a leading arm suspension. That's not a good thing ever on any surface. It certainly doesn't increase traction. If it does then you've got bigger problems and just found a bandaid. Advice like this is usually given by people who also claim that axle plunge gives traction which is again bad geometry and horrible advice. Why people go out of their way to make a suspension system stiffer, but want a chassis that flexes just dumbfounds me.
fredswain is offline  
Old 11-27-2013, 04:21 PM
  #12993  
ekt
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
ekt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Burnie, Australia
Posts: 1,229
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by shagino
Flexibility comes with a price. It raises the transmission case. A dremel may fix that though.
It won't raise the transmission case, from what I can tell from the pics.
ekt is offline  
Old 11-27-2013, 05:31 PM
  #12994  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 3,673
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ekt
It won't raise the transmission case, from what I can tell from the pics.
Yup, just confirmed in the SC thread.

I think I get it now. If you use the plastic black spacers, that's what's really lifting it in the other shim set I saw. The exotek kit doesn't even have the space for it.

Last edited by shagino; 11-27-2013 at 05:58 PM.
shagino is offline  
Old 11-28-2013, 09:02 AM
  #12995  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 136
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by wyd
Ran my 210 for the 3rd time in 17.5 buggy last night and I super happy with the overall handling of my Durango. Funny thing is I put some rear springs on and I thought I had one spring on only to find out I made a huge mistake. That turned out ok as the car worked even better with the wrong springs on the back of the car. Sometimes a little luck pays off as normally and think on any other buggy these springs wouldn't have worked. I'm just going to ride it out and try out at another track and see if the results are the same.

All my new STRC black anodized parts worked great along with the carbon front and rear towers. The new to me tapered Durango pistons really worked out great with the oil and spring combo I'm running. Suspension feels really plush overall and jumps great. Very happy with 210 right now.
I may need some help with my Durango that I am going to be running at Bumps in 17.5.
microracer25 is offline  
Old 11-28-2013, 03:19 PM
  #12996  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 3,673
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default Durango Hop-ups & roller

Selling some Durango hop ups if anyone's interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...m-chassis.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...10-hopups.html

Also selling my buggy:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...go-dex210.html
shagino is offline  
Old 11-30-2013, 05:13 AM
  #12997  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Austria
Posts: 623
Default Long ball diff outdrives?

Can someone tell me please, how much longer the long ball diff outdrives (TD310417) are, compared to the orginal ones?
Or does someone have the total length of the complete ball diff, with the longer outdrives?


Thanks in advance and
micholix is offline  
Old 12-01-2013, 11:49 AM
  #12998  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
mechanic77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Burrton, Ks
Posts: 281
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by micholix
Can someone tell me please, how much longer the long ball diff outdrives (TD310417) are, compared to the orginal ones?
Or does someone have the total length of the complete ball diff, with the longer outdrives?


Thanks in advance and
Each outdrive is 1mm longer.....not much, but it gets the job done
mechanic77 is offline  
Old 12-01-2013, 03:23 PM
  #12999  
BOG
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
 
BOG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: masshole
Posts: 1,602
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

hey fellas, I an new to this thread but have been running a mid motor on carpet for over a year now!!! I just built a rear motor for clay and had the factory body painted however i used the +8mm chassis and it doesn't fit (life is just soo hard sometimes)!!! Is there anyway i can make it fit?? im about to trim up the chassis... any suggestions first??

Thanx in advance.........
BOG is offline  
Old 12-01-2013, 08:49 PM
  #13000  
wyd
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Default

Car was awesome today. I did try some 25 degree caster blocks I made up. Worked great for me.
wyd is offline  
Old 12-02-2013, 04:25 AM
  #13001  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 3,673
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BOG
hey fellas, I an new to this thread but have been running a mid motor on carpet for over a year now!!! I just built a rear motor for clay and had the factory body painted however i used the +8mm chassis and it doesn't fit (life is just soo hard sometimes)!!! Is there anyway i can make it fit?? im about to trim up the chassis... any suggestions first??

Thanx in advance.........
If you use a heat gun, you can mold it to fit. Not perfect but works. Another option is to get a +8/10/11 aluminum chassis. Since these use the side pods, it'll work on those.
shagino is offline  
Old 12-03-2013, 10:32 AM
  #13002  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,981
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Qualified second and won the main last night for local points series!

Only won because fast guy broke out a few minutes in.

The -2MM block I made was a night and day difference. Was able to power out of corners much sooner than normal and it had just as much steering/rotation as before.
iTz Nicholas72 is offline  
Old 12-03-2013, 06:04 PM
  #13003  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Hanford, California
Posts: 419
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I am looking to get a 2wd buggy and was considering the RTR version of the DEX210. As this thread has over 500 pages I was wondering what you all thought of the ready to run kit? It will take some time to skim all the posts
RBraswell is offline  
Old 12-03-2013, 08:09 PM
  #13004  
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
 
Lead-Lobber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Currently live in southern AZ, or closer to northern Mexico if your a realist.
Posts: 37
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Introduction

Hey guys, I would like to introduce myself. My name is Jeff and I live in Tucson, AZ. I picked up a DEX210 RTR from a friend on another forum. I gave that to the wife to drive around with the boys and their SC10s. I'll be racing that soon. Then I bought another buggy from Shagino. That will be my primary race car with the wife's as a back up in the MM configuration.
I got a package in the mail today with some Tresrey goodies: rear camber link plate, 14mm clamping hubs, and 7mm front wheel screws.

Cheers.
Jeff
Attached Thumbnails Durango DEX210 Thread-dex1.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-dex2.jpg  
Lead-Lobber is offline  
Old 12-03-2013, 08:28 PM
  #13005  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (520)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 7,373
Trader Rating: 520 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Lead-Lobber
Hey guys, I would like to introduce myself. My name is Jeff and I live in Tucson, AZ. I picked up a DEX210 RTR from a friend on another forum. I gave that to the wife to drive around with the boys and their SC10s. I'll be racing that soon. Then I bought another buggy from Shagino. That will be my primary race car with the wife's as a back up in the MM configuration.
I got a package in the mail today with some Tresrey goodies: rear camber link plate, 14mm clamping hubs, and 7mm front wheel screws.

Cheers.
Jeff
Welcome Jeff, congrats on the car and hope you like it..let us know if there are any questions..
flame56mx is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.